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 Post subject: circuit board repair stand
PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 3:41 pm 
the Floor Sweeping Hack with Golden Ears

Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:53 pm
Posts: 14200
After doing some work on the 2250s and flipping them over/over to find the component and then the solder leads I have a sore back. After some though I realized I have a lot more to do on them and the 430s I have plans to use and started to consider a circuit board repair stand. Anyone have anything they use now? The searches I did these all seem really small and there is no way I could consider locking a 2250 into it even if it was big enough.

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32797605533.html

It has led me to consider making my own unless there is a read made solution someone else knows about?



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 Post subject: Re: circuit board repair stand
PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 7:17 pm 
the Floor Sweeping Hack with Golden Ears

Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:53 pm
Posts: 14200
only thing I found that was big enough to maybe work was pretty pricey, so off to the hardware store to make my own. After some thought I only really need it to fit 2 boards at the moment and they are both the same width so I am just going to build a frame I can mount them to with a pivot point in the middle to spin on. Then I will make a heavy steel stand to set the frame on top of at the pivot point so that I can then spin it back/forth to make finding the solder leads to the components easier to find. if anyone cares I can post pics to make their own.



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 Post subject: Re: circuit board repair stand
PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 9:48 am 

Joined: Sun Mar 31, 2013 11:55 am
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Location: So cal
we have them in my hospitals that I work in, but when ive looked through electronics stores i saw what youve seen, pricey. I did got a decent sized on for a reasonable price but its not big enough for the 2125/2500/2250 but it will work for most ZX amps and the 275 and 430 boards.



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 Post subject: Re: circuit board repair stand
PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 6:40 pm 
the Floor Sweeping Hack with Golden Ears

Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:53 pm
Posts: 14200
got it finished up tonight. I made a frame that the 2250 and 430 boards as well as the 2125 can all mount too using the original screw holes on the board and the original screws so no fear of loosing them. I used JB weld and rivits for the frame and welded the steel base so it was heavy enough to support it and not tip over. I need to add another locking/friction knob on the other side as I thought one side would be enough but it can still get loose. It even balances pretty well since I put the pivot point above the circuit board to try and hit the center of gravity on the board(not an accident :) )
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and with a simple twist you can get to the back.
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and not a moment too soon as the caps arrived for the 2250s(x4). Yes I decided if I am going to get into the amp and change some caps and then hope to use it for 15-20 yrs I am swapping them all....
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but I like it as its at the perfect hight so no more leaning over or worrying about where I grab it to turn it. I think I have $30 in it total but I did just order a flexible light to go above it and a small flourescent to go below it so shadows on the back of the board will help me locate components, and finally a parts bin to go below it.



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 Post subject: Re: circuit board repair stand
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 9:43 am 
the Floor Sweeping Hack with Golden Ears

Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:53 pm
Posts: 14200
I had some requests to show a little more about the stand and I am happy to share.

I made the frame from aluminum L-channel material(I think that is what its called) that I got at home depot. I thought about using square tubing for this as well but I wanted to keep the frame light but still stiff enough it would not bend much and it seems to work and was not much $$$. It also made it easier to put together by simply cutting some slots on the ends of the long side to allow them to slide together as well as allowed me to put the pivot point above the board closer to its center of gravity. If it were not close to the center of gravity the frame would always try to flip to one side and I was afraid it would end up damaging something. A little bit of jb weld and a rivit in each corner hold the frame together but if I was any good at welding aluminum I would have done some here. Prior to putting it together I drilled the holes in the short ends that became the pivot point, and I drilled holes in this end so I could tie the rca's on to that they will not get torn off/worn out from flipping it back and forth. Once it was together I drilled and tapped the holes for the board mounting so that I can use the original screws to mount it down. Since the ms/mq amps are all the same width by putting new mounting holes in this frame I should be able to mount any of them. If I need one for a different sized board I can consider adding some pieces in the middle of this frame for it or to build a new frame, but for now and the 7 amps I have planned this frame will work. I will look at the tap and get the thread pattern for the factory screws in a few to make it easier for you.
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The base I made out of 3/4" square steel that I got from the same hardware bin at home depot as the L-channel and some flat stock steel I had left over but square tubing would work as well. I made the base heavy so that it will not want to move much when I rotate it. I made one end so it can slide in/out and the other end I welded solid so it will take up less space in storage. Looking back now if I made it so both ends slid onto the center bar it would make this stand break down into almost no space for storage.
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To put the two together I went to ace hardware and used 1/4-20 sized hardware because that was the size they have for the locking knob on the end I use to lock it in place. Put a knob on each end($3.50 each!!!) or a wing nut and some nuts on the other side of the base and you can slide the two together. With the frame locked in place it was really easy to mount the board to it.
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I am going to add a power strip to go behind it to power everything as well as a snake light to go above it and another light below it and finally a parts bin to help organize the crap you see below it now but after replacing all the caps in the bin on the front/right my back is not the slightest bit sore today. The real reason I made this is I have two compressed discs in my lower back that get aggrivated easily and between leaning over the board and constantly flipping it after a couple of hours I found I had not done all that much to the board but my back was killing me for 2 days after.



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