Ford Exploder Updated 2-1-12 w/ Xcon

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 5:50 pm

I don't know of many of us on here competing, I just do not want the name "Exploder" to come true...

oldschoolfan · Post by **oldschoolfan** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 6:44 pm

Is that the mat finish Stinger wire Zak had mentioned? It is really nice looking wire regardless.

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Tue Aug 03, 2010 3:07 am

It is a bunch of different wire actually. The alternator to batter ground is PG, the alternator to battery positive is Stinger, and the 2 runs going to the distro blocks are Knukonceptz.

ttocs wrote:ah I missed that sentence . That is strange as they do contradict themselfs.....

I found that strange too. Either way, I don't want it to be an Exploder, more like an XSplorer.

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Sun Aug 08, 2010 5:19 pm

Weekend Update. Ran all signal wiring, speaker wiring, LPL wiring, and mounted TDD5 and EQ215X. I had a difficult time finding places for the DD5 and the EQ, but I think I managed quite well. I wanted the DD5 hidden, yet easily accessible for status of the amps and processor. The EQ needed to be as close to the headunit as possible since it is doubling as a line driver. This was the best place I could find that provided easy access for tuning as well as being close to the source. It is relatively hidden and out of the way. I will be putting an end piece on it, but just ran out of time this weekend.

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Thu Aug 12, 2010 5:25 pm

Quick update. My LPL knobs came in today. Actually they are DiMarzio "Speed" guitar knobs, that fit the potentiometers I bought perfectly. Now my bass will be one louder as it has the ability to go to "11".

Post by **stipud** » Fri Aug 13, 2010 6:33 am

Now that is a nice touch!!

The Golden One · Post by **The Golden One** » Fri Aug 13, 2010 11:02 am

[these go to eleven] gotta love it man you allways have to be at least one step ahead of the competion i wonder what would happen if it went to twelve i guess that would be way to much.

XONE · Post by **XONE** » Fri Aug 13, 2010 1:07 pm

The Golden One wrote:[these go to eleven] gotta love it man you allways have to be at least one step ahead of the competion i wonder what would happen if it went to twelve i guess that would be way to much.

but these go to 11

Post by **Bfowler** » Fri Aug 13, 2010 1:47 pm

The Golden One wrote:[these go to eleven] gotta love it man you allways have to be at least one step ahead of the competion i wonder what would happen if it went to twelve i guess that would be way to much.

well thats silly. you could just make 11 represent a higher volume. i dont know why you didnt think of that

oldschoolfan · Post by **oldschoolfan** » Fri Aug 13, 2010 3:50 pm

This made my day and my week. Thank you.

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Sat Aug 21, 2010 1:25 pm

Finally! Finished with my doors (40-50 hours later). I mounted a pair of XS10d4 subs in the doors in a custom MDF/fiberglass enclosure. The enclosure comes out to about .55 ft^3 so I added some polyfill to help with the undersized enclosure. I also glassed in my tweeters into the sail panels. They are mounted so that they are on axis which is why they aren't symmetrical. I also carpeted them because... I didn't feel like waiting around for bondo to dry then sand, then paint. I will be doing the same for the mids in the dash. Overall, it turned out about like I expected. Bass that comes from the front (cuz it is) and will definitely give your legs a massage. The sound so far is nothing short of great.

Post by **stipud** » Sat Aug 21, 2010 6:29 pm

So are you going to fiberglass that all in, or is it a function over form kinda thing?

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 3:21 am

stipud wrote:So are you going to fiberglass that all in, or is it a function over form kinda thing?

Fiberglass it all in? I'm not sure what you're thinking in terms of fiberglassing. I basically cut the door panel at the seam where the pocket was located in the door panel and designed the enclosure to follow the contours of the door. It sticks out a little further than the pocket did, but I had no choice due to the mounting depth of the speaker. My goals here are obviously not show car install, but good sound that doesn't break the bank or take up any usable space within the vehicle.

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 5:26 am

do the doors still seal up at the bottom? It looks like your enclosure goes past the rubber seal that is needed contact the metal.

I think what he meant was are you going to FG the bottom so it is molded into one piece.

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:25 am

Ahh... I see. No, I have no intention of fiberglassing the two together. Yes, the doors still seal exactly as they did before. The enclosure size leaves about half an inch all the way around between the enclosure and the door seal. I have better pictures to show how it all fits together, but I left them at home.

Post by **kg1961** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:27 am

did you protect the back of the box from all the water that goes into doors? I would hate to see all that work fall apart over time

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:37 am

kg1961 wrote:did you protect the back of the box from all the water that goes into doors? I would hate to see all that work fall apart over time

Yes. The entire door panel is sound deadened, the back of the enclosure is fiberglassed, and the front of the enclosure is primered and painted with several layers of paint.

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 7:28 am

I would put a coat of resin inside and out or that thing will slowly rot away.

How far does the window go down now? did it make any change in it?

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 8:42 am

ttocs wrote:I would put a coat of resin inside and out or that thing will slowly rot away.

How far does the window go down now? did it make any change in it?

If the inside is air tight, do you think I would still be O.K.? What about the outside due to the paint? I figured that by painting it with several layers of primer and then several layers of paint (2-3 coats each) it would be fine. Plus with the sound deadener sealing the door skin, no direct water should be able to get to it. Only issue would be moisture. The window goes all the way down still. The enclosure is on the outside of door skin and the bolts that hold it down only protrude about 1/2" inside.

Stryker · Post by **Stryker** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:57 am

wrapping those in beige carpet would make a HUGE difference in how those look.... For the better. I'm sure you get great beat from those but they stand out like sore thumbs.

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 12:29 pm

True. I half looked on Parts Express for tan carpet, but didn't find anything to match close that could also be stretchable. Some day down the road I'll probably fine tune some details like better matching carpet, but TBH... I'm sick of working on this thing night and day. It's kind of sad when you spend more time with your stereo than you do your girlfriend.

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 12:39 pm

that would depend on the girl, and the stereo...

Post by **kg1961** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 12:42 pm

ttocs wrote:that would depend on the girl, and the stereo...

how true how true...lol

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 12:50 pm

you can always fix a stereo

.........

Post by **smgreen20** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 1:56 pm

Who says you can't fix a wife?????