Phoenix Gold Phorum

All right guys here is my install finally after a few months of me talking and asking about stuff. Now Ive been working on getting stuff for it for a few months now and spent from 5/3 to 7/5 installing everything and I still have a few things to do. If theres is any comments and/or tips yall wanna give please let me know . By far this is the cleanest sounding system I have owned. Now installation wise it is not exactlly what I was planning on doing because I have so much equipment u'll see and understand but I wanted to still be able to use the space in my truck. Now there are a few people I need to address here on the forum before I get into details of the installation. Mr Tibbs thanx for those ABC box plans I wanna usem but I did the measuring to see how much space that box would be and DAMN that thing is huge now I may still use it but I gotta think where could I install the rest on my stuff thoe. I may do side wall racks for everything and do the box . I wanna thank Randy and Matt for my 3way deal to get the ZX450 for my mids and highs (DAMN its clear as day sounding) Also Jiggad for my Ti600.2 its a monster amp . Thunderdome for completing my Balancing act. And all u seasoned furomers for recomending the RSdC12 man that is a helleva sub I thought it would be a good sub but not this damn good and u guys will see in the video .Now guys I know its not as good as some of yalls installs but hey I had 4 days to do everything but Ill also will be doin some finishing touches over the next month. Now Ill have this post done in a few groups of pics with a brief description of that group of photos so most os you will get the gist of everything also I didnt do pics of putting everything back together cause Im sure yall can figure that part out. Now some pics I didnt take say the building of the rack cause I forgot because I was such on a roll with it. Ill explain with that group. Well anyways I hope yall enjoy everything and please let me know what are some good tips or comments or whatever. Thanx again everyone Jason.

Heres a few pics of everything I got over the past 2-3 months of equipment.

Heres some pics from the first day before I stripped everything for preping of Dynamat and wiring and door fabricating.

Heres what everything looked like as I was gutting the truck.

Now guys this is where I dynamating everything that needed it. Now I didnt have the budget to do multi layers and cover every sq in but I jus wanted the doors, rear tire wells and the floor right above the gas tank where the pump is. But all in all after I drove it around it made a huge differenence in road noise it almost sounds like a lexus on the inside driving around. I didnt seal up the doors cause I bought little enclosures for my mids as ull see later so I didnt see the purpose of sealing the doors. Also the floor had 2 stock layers from the factory so that was good enough for my purposes and the firewall had a rubber coating on it now ull see pics of what Im talking about. Yes I know it not sound deadning material but I not completeing this is my daily driver so it would be point less to spend that much money and time doing everything.

heres are the doors with everything done to them. I cut an angle on the front mounting brackets so the drivers door mid point toward the passenger and the passanger poor mid points toward the driver but I also added mini enclosures made by install bay to all for doors. Also as I stated I upgraded the rear door speaker size from a 5.25 to a 6.5 for better rear fill and more mid bass. Now I like to have rear fill as I know some of you arent big fans of. But hey no offense but it what I prefer. Also ull see where I used MBQ passive xovers for both front and rear doors. I just think they have better Xover point than most other companies plus these were BN ($40)and b4 the Maxxisonics bought MBQ and they have seperate inputs for mids and tweets which I was looking for.

here are some shots of everything that I dynamated

heres where I ran all my wiring. now the 0g power wire, remote, and SS BX-15 contol wire is ran down the driver side of the car. then my PG balaced RCA is on the driver side of the shaft housing and all the door speaker wires are ran on the passenger side of the shaft housing. Now I didnt run the rca or speaker wires on the passanger doors because there is a stock wiring harness ran on both sides of the care so I wanted to avoid picking any noise up. also when a speaker wire comes across any other wire its ran at a 90 degree crossing so it doesnt run along and voltage paths and its ran thru the stock door wire conduit so it appears to be stock when u open the door. now alos there are 3 other sets of rca's ran so when I begin to tune my DQX I can take it up front and adjust it in the driver seat while listening until I get a DDC.

no heres what the build of my box looks like. Now if my calculations are correct its about 2.3 cu ft 36.5x7.5x14.5 with port demensions at 2x14.5x13 which should be about 26-29 hz tuned without sub. also I have the interior lined with a thick layer of polyfill. now I know this isnt as good as some of yalls boxes but man to me it turned out great looking and sounding note-ull see in video muhahahahaha

looks like you made alot of progress. My only concern is that the power wire going to your amp look like it is 2x as thick as your batteries ground wire. That will be your choke point in the electrical system until you upgrade it.

now here is what everything looks like put together before my little final touches (ie 2 high flow cpu fans, plexi display on false floor to view eveything and a few others ull see later when I get to them). Now the rack is a simple lay out for now. Now I didnt want some elaberate layout for someone to walk by and say hey let yank that and take it LOL. But I also wanted something tobe user cargo space friendly. also pay attention to my "clock" does hehehe

Now heres a video link I did for yall now please read the note at the begining of the video yall will understand LOL now please everyone leav me some ur yall advive, input, and comments I would really appreciate it. Thanx again for everything. Jason

LINK

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7pUwlg2d14

ttocs that why I have a 4g and 2 8g grounds cause its hard to find a terminal with a single 0g and a 4g but ill be getting one soon

Those RSDC's do quite an amazing job, even with low power levels. Great install!

hey nice job on your install. It's a hell of alot of work, but more satisfying to do it on your own as well. is it possible to paint the inside of the port on your box so you don't see the wood color? being as tho you asked for input.... is the processor section of your amp rack off slightly to an angle compared to the amps? looks like it's tilted left and turned down by a couple of degrees if that makes any sense. maybe it's the way the pic was taken. would be easy to center without any problem. the cap is outta place your right. if it wouldn't fit somewhere I would've just hid it under something or behind a panel as you have the gauge in the dash to go off of. other than that I'm sure it sounds awesome, and tuning it is always great times . Nice video, But I must ask why are you not running the 600ZX at 2OHM bridged? It can certainly take the abuse no problem at all. I ran my 400ZX like that for years with no problem and I like to crank the bass. you should try it to see the difference.

Your deck looks great and I like what you did with the voltage gauge. I also really like your false floor... nicely done. The output from your sub is quite impressive off of only 300w... I am running the same power in my car and haven't had anywhere near that output, with several large ported setups as well. SUVs are great for bass... my back seat absorbs a ton!

I've got a couple concerns that you could easily resolve...

Your TBAT needs to be installed up front. Having the TBAT and TBAR side by side completely defeats the purpose of them, and you would be far better off without them in this case. The more items you add to your signal chain, the more interference you add. The point of a line driver is to increase the voltage of your RCAs before they travel across the car, which reduces the effect of radiated noise on the lines. With the transmitter in the trunk you are not removing any noise whatsoever (you are just amplifying it), since you still have your regular deck voltage coming to the back.

Your rear speaker crossovers being installed within the door cavity worries me. It will be subjected to a lot of water on that location. Better to install it over the surface, under your door panel, or in the cubby. On that note are you running your RSDs off your Quart crossovers? You should use the matching crossovers as I know the Quart tweeters and RSD tweeters should have very different crossover points.

The RSD enclosures are way too small. From personal experience, they lose a lot of midbass in small enclosures... and yours are even smaller than the ones I was working with. You would probably be better just running them open in the doors. Better yet if you can cover the rest of the holes in the door, and dynamat over them. I have found they work best on a sealed door panel, or a very large enclosure.

I noticed your SoundStream bass boost... you should also consider adding an LPL as well. This lets you remotely control the gains of your sub amp, so instead of boosting you can adjust the sensitivity instead.

I second Stipud's statement about the RSD comps. Open those babies up and let em' breathe. I recently did that to my comps and kick drums have MUCH more authority.

I was going to comment as well on the the balancing act. The idea is to use as little RCA cable as you can with those two. Put the transmitter 6-12" from the deck and try to do the same with the receiver. Make sure to keep the chassis of both isolated from grounds.

I think my battery terminal from knu has one 0 and one 4.

I appreciates everyones input advice and concepts,

stupid and ttocs, I didnt know to do that with the tba set Ill do that in a week or two when I get the time but actually I dont have any noise at all in my system its as clear as day now Ive never heard a system this freakin loud and clean. Now stupid the reason I used the MBQ xovers is mainly due to fact that they have seperate inputs from an amp for the mid bass and the tweeter thats why I got them because in the next 6 months Im gonna use the front side of the amp for highs and the rear side for the mids which is a better set up for the DQX cause the built in xover has a highpass, bandpass, and a lowpass output so for me to use the full potential of the dqx Im gonna have to rewire the mids and highs. Now when I do this Im gonna take out those midbass enclosures and see how well the midbass is. Now I must say thou the rsd midbass is rediculious, Ive never heard it sound so punchy but very clean it adds a whole new level of listening to my overall bass of my system. But also I like the fact the MBQ xovers have a tweeter adjuster as per say cause I have it at -6db now and they sound freakin awsome. also my rear xovers are in a sealed baggy mounted about 2 inches from the floor of the inner door because I know about moisture accumulation inside doors so they are protected I jus didnt have anywhere else to install them. Now also I dont need an LPL or even that SS bass control cause I dont wanna turn up the sensitivity of the amp cause its getting about 5vrms signal from the DQX (because it has a meter that reads the signal output for each). But the SS control also has a SSF (sub-sonic filter) knob on the same control and if I leave it unplugged from the unit then it bypasses the SSF and I dont like my sub amp using that wasted freq's that I cant hear cause its set at 30hz well anyways any other comments and replies much appreciated thanx again guys. OH yall like the video LOL

knightrider358 wrote:Now stupid the reason I used the MBQ xovers is mainly due to fact that they have seperate inputs from an amp for the mid bass and the tweeter thats why I got them because in the next 6 months Im gonna use the front side of the amp for highs and the rear side for the mids which is a better set up for the DQX cause the built in xover has a highpass, bandpass, and a lowpass output so for me to use the full potential of the dqx Im gonna have to rewire the mids and highs.

Hold on there...

Right now you are bi-amping your MB Quart crossover? In that case, just remove it completely and run the components active! The ZX450 also has the same crossovers that your DQX has... they are super easy to configure. You can run highpass to the tweeter, and bandpass to the mid.

Front
X10 - press in
FREQ - your tweeter's crossover frequency... so ~2500-3000
CONFIG - HP

Rear
Input Select - 3
CONFIG - HP/LP
FREQ - your midrange's crossover frequency... so ~60-80

Also note the aux-output in this case contains all the sub frequencies (below ~60-80, whatever you set your rear dial to). This way you can run one set of RCAs and run your whole setup active if you want to.

This is what you are talking about doing with your DQX, but if you do this with the MB Quart crossover as well, it will not work. In this case you are trying to change your crossover frequencies and slopes, but the passive has them internally set anyways. It adds nothing by being there when you are running active... it just saps your power and messes up your active crossover frequencies.

So I say if you are running a crossover, do not biamp the MB Quart crossover to the RSDs, since it has a different crossover frequency and slope. It may also have built in filtering to make the specific set of Quarts sound better, but it would only make your RSDs sound worse in this case. If you want to power them independently, don't bother bi-amping and go straight to active.

ooohhhhh I see now but also I have both the ZX450 and the Ti600.2 on bypass setting on the xovers Im only using the MBQ's and the built xover on the DQX but I see what ur saying mmmm I may have to try that thanx again stupid now I see why ur da head honcho on here well if anyone else has any suggestions Im open to them.

Great install!!! You have some seriously cool gear in there.

All you need now is a F.L.U.X. capacitor...

whats a flux cap

Lmao I'll let someone else fill you in on that one lol

it allows you to reach the necessary voltage of 7.7 jiggawats of power which is needed to allow our amps to travel in time. It is the real secret of pg and why we are all into them. Not that you are in the inner sanctom and know the secret you must swear to never tell anyone or face the ultimate punishment of a flux cap hooked up to your genitals........