1990 Subaru Loyale Wagon Install!

Post by **ttocs** » Thu May 20, 2010 10:32 am

calm down man, I was asking questions about it to help you by playing devils advocate. I am not going to dig back through 3 pages of pics of "here is the raw piece of wood I bought", and "here are my amps on my kitched floor" to ask a simple question to help you....... And if I had found that quote I still would have asked it to try to help you.

I understand that you have everything done to spec, but do you know what kind of damage will be done if the 0 awg grounds out BEFORE the dist block(firewall for example)that 300A breaker trips? What if you or someone else later accidently throws a screw into it? 300A through that wire with a good battery will literaly almost weld itself to the chassis before the fuse blows. If this were to happen then You could almost surely expect to fry all the cars electronics and who knows what else. If you had amps that could pull 300A then you need it up there but with two small amps like that while it looks or sounds cool is a recipe for disaster if the worst should ever happen.

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Thu May 20, 2010 10:58 am

ttocs wrote:calm down man, I was asking questions about it to help you by playing devils advocate. I am not going to dig back through 3 pages of pics of "here is the raw piece of wood I bought", and "here are my amps on my kitched floor" to ask a simple question to help you....... And if I had found that quote I still would have asked it to try to help you.

I understand that you have everything done to spec, but do you know what kind of damage will be done if the 0 awg grounds out BEFORE the dist block(firewall for example)that 300A breaker trips? What if you or someone else later accidently throws a screw into it? 300A through that wire with a good battery will literaly almost weld itself to the chassis before the fuse blows. If this were to happen then You could almost surely expect to fry all the cars electronics and who knows what else. If you had amps that could pull 300A then you need it up there but with two small amps like that while it looks or sounds cool is a recipe for disaster if the worst should ever happen.

Fair enough. I just hate repeating myself, it's a pet peeve of mine. Nothing personal. Sorry if I "flew off the handle". Repeating ones self tends to often alot on forums and not just here, especially when I thought that I pretty much already answered what you asked in the previous post. So ya. From your sarcastic comments I can tell you at least went back and read it

and that was my point...

I see what you are saying though and thanks for the warning, but honestly I am not worried about it. I don't plan on selling the car, and if I do, the wire is coming out. Also I might tap into the power wire for other things since it's already in the car (like off road lights, winch, etc) so I want to be able to have some head room. I could very easily add another amp and be puling 180amps, and then with offroad lights and winch, I could get close to 300amps. Not all at once, but none the less.

I am going by industry standards here as well (as far as wire ratings), so if they work for everybody else, why would I be different? I get you are saying to not fuse it anymore than you need, but I am more fusing to what the wire is capable of incase I every want to use it for those abilities, and not have to buy new parts to get there.

Frying all the electronics, not so much. That's why there is a fuse box in the car, and almost all the fuses are under 25amps. To avoid that EXACT scenario. The car manufactures wouldn't go through all that effort to protect the car if they didn't work

If that was to happen because of my power wire, I had WAY bigger problems to begin with, and the power wire just added to it.

I didn't go through the firewall so I am not afraid of that anyways, I used exsisting grommets, and I am pretty sure I will remember where the 0awg wire is running through my car, you can't really miss it

That and almost the enitre run is ran next to the factory wiring, using the factory wire run holder as well, so the wire is pretty protected. And honestly, that's the last thing I am going to worry about is my brand new wire failing in my 20 year old car

It's very low on the things that could go wrong with the car, trust me

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Fri May 21, 2010 12:17 pm

Ok, so it looks like my deal is going through and I will be getting a punch P3d212 sub! I have never had anything fosgate, so this will be my first fosgate product. From the reviews I have read, this is a pretty decent sub. Anyone used/have/heard any of the Punch P3 subs?

Here's the box that I came up with to fit in the back of my car, but still have enough room for everything I have back there:

What do you all think? Did I do good figuring it all out? This is really the first time I have actually cared about doing this all correctly so any help or insight would be appreciated! Go easy on the newbie

I will probably start buy stuff for the box next week once I get paid. So I won't be able to throw this bad boy in for a couple weeks. That and it's going to take a few days for the sub to get shipped to me, so ya.

I think I will like the combo of a ti400.2 and a Punch 12" P3. Should be a decent upgrade in SQ anyways, and that's what I am really looking for

Post by **stipud** » Fri May 21, 2010 12:37 pm

Sorry man, I hate those subs. Boomy street beater bass. Not my style...

See if you can still find PG RSD Competition woofers. They are usually an absolute steal and sound absolutely amazing and smooth on high through low bass.

AAMP217 · Post by **AAMP217** » Fri May 21, 2010 12:44 pm

ttocs wrote:calm down man, I was asking questions about it to help you by playing devils advocate. I am not going to dig back through 3 pages of pics of "here is the raw piece of wood I bought", and "here are my amps on my kitched floor" to ask a simple question to help you....... And if I had found that quote I still would have asked it to try to help you.

I understand that you have everything done to spec, but do you know what kind of damage will be done if the 0 awg grounds out BEFORE the dist block(firewall for example)that 300A breaker trips? What if you or someone else later accidently throws a screw into it? 300A through that wire with a good battery will literaly almost weld itself to the chassis before the fuse blows. If this were to happen then You could almost surely expect to fry all the cars electronics and who knows what else. If you had amps that could pull 300A then you need it up there but with two small amps like that while it looks or sounds cool is a recipe for disaster if the worst should ever happen.

Quick side note...
A dead short on 1/0 wire will blow a 300 amp fuse (trip a breaker) in under 1 second. Even with that load on a circuit a dead short will cause almost instantaneous circuit interruption (at least Bussman breakers will, I would like to say all but there are some cheap breakers on the market). So unless there is a defect in the breaker/fuse you will not have to worry

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Fri May 21, 2010 12:45 pm

stipud wrote:Sorry man, I hate those subs. Boomy street beater bass. Not my style...

See if you can still find PG RSD Competition woofers. They are usually an absolute steal and sound absolutely amazing and smooth on high through low bass.

Trust me that's the sub I wanted, but I am getting the fosgate in a trade. If I had real money to actually spend, then this would not have been my choice... I figure it's better than my s8l7, it's a 4ohm sub, so it will be better for my amp as well, for now. If I really don't like it, I will pass it off to the wife who won't really notice and pick up a 12" RSDC for myself when I gets more money

The latter will probably be what will happen, but we shall see when the time comes.

The 12" gots to be better than my 8"… Well the 12" will hit louder and lower anyways… Maybe I am just hoping for a SQ upgrade

Maybe I will get lucky?

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Fri May 21, 2010 12:48 pm

AAMP217 wrote:Quick side note...
A dead short on 1/0 wire will blow a 300 amp fuse (trip a breaker) in under 1 second. Even with that load on a circuit a dead short will cause almost instantaneous circuit interruption (at least Bussman breakers will, I would like to say all but there are some cheap breakers on the market). So unless there is a defect in the breaker/fuse you will not have to worry

Sweet, thanks for the confirmation on that. I was pretty sure that was the case, but since I am fairly new at this I really didn't know, and my research really didn't say one way or the other, but the numbers looked ok to me...

It's good to know that I am not being completely ridiculous with my 300amp breaker

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Tue May 25, 2010 2:03 am

Got the 400.2 installed, and wow, what a difference in sound quality! That and it's a powerful amp, especially at 2ohms. No problems pushing my s8l7

This was to see what it sounded like and before I cleaned it up

I had to rewire and switch the amps yet again because my stupid RCA's didn't reach. PITA. So I now have some new RCA's that I am going to run, but that is not going to happen for a while, so this will work fine. It actually worked out ok since it allowed me to actually secure by distro/fuse block. I also removed the metal lid to allow for better air flow. I cut a piece of my 1/4 mdf to put over my tantrum so I can put things on it for now. This also helps direct the air flow of the fan, so that was a good bonus. Luckily I have a cargo pull cover that I use at all times along with dark tinted windows, so no one can see my nice amp setting there. That was about the only benefit of the metal cover was that everything was completely hidden. Oh well, no loss to me really. I cleaned up the wires a bit as well.

So far I likey alot

I get paid today, so I am going to go buy the supplies to build my new sub box too have them around so I can start building it and have it ready for when the sub actually shows up.

I think I might pick up some flat black spray paint too. That will really make it look a lot nicer. This should be good times

Post by **kg1961** » Tue May 25, 2010 5:31 am

make sure you keep the cover off the 400.2 she needs air
I would add cooling fann to move air past both amp if it was me
did you check teh caps on the 400.2? I have seen some that have been leaking

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Tue May 25, 2010 5:46 am

kg1961 wrote:make sure you keep the cover off the 400.2 she needs air
I would add cooling fann to move air past both amp if it was me
did you check teh caps on the 400.2? I have seen some that have been leaking

Ya, I just removed the cover to give it air for sure. If it gets hot, I will add the other fan I had in there for my XS. It's just so loud with my both of them in there. I will be building a voltage control circuit to control the fan speed, so when I do that I will probably add another fan in.

I didn't check the caps because it came from fuzzyhonutz and he seems like a stand up guy and I think you were the one that mentioned that it had been traded around in some trades in the FS thread, and you seemed to know the amp, so why don't you tell me

I kid of course. I think it was Stryker's originally and then got traded around, but now it has a good home

You would have to ask fuzzy about where it came from though... but I am fairly confident that my caps are ok.

Post by **kg1961** » Tue May 25, 2010 5:59 am

yes that was the amp but it was shipped to thunderdome than back to me and than bogart so all that shipping can make things move. I would make sure you have over 2" clearance on the fan for the amp as you will be running it hard when you ge the 12" in there
they are great amp just getting older
best of luck with it
Mike

AAMP217 · Post by **AAMP217** » Tue May 25, 2010 6:40 am

eulogious wrote:
kg1961 wrote:make sure you keep the cover off the 400.2 she needs air
I would add cooling fann to move air past both amp if it was me
did you check teh caps on the 400.2? I have seen some that have been leaking
Ya, I just removed the cover to give it air for sure. If it gets hot, I will add the other fan I had in there for my XS. It's just so loud with my both of them in there. I will be building a voltage control circuit to control the fan speed, so when I do that I will probably add another fan in.

I didn't check the caps because it came from fuzzyhonutz and he seems like a stand up guy and I think you were the one that mentioned that it had been traded around in some trades in the FS thread, and you seemed to know the amp, so why don't you tell me I kid of course. I think it was Stryker's originally and then got traded around, but now it has a good home

You would have to ask fuzzy about where it came from though... but I am fairly confident that my caps are ok.

Just in case you do not want to build fan thermostat Stinger has any adjustable one available. The part number is SGJ11.

http://stingerelectronics.com/productDe ... tegoryID=3

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Tue May 25, 2010 6:42 am

kg1961 wrote:yes that was the amp but it was shipped to thunderdome than back to me and than bogart so all that shipping can make things move. I would make sure you have over 2" clearance on the fan for the amp as you will be running it hard when you ge the 12" in there
they are great amp just getting older
best of luck with it
Mike

Thanks for the heads up man

What I plan on doing when money allows is adding a piece of plexy, and then drilling holes right above the fan for air flow. I think that should suffice...

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Tue May 25, 2010 7:29 am

AAMP217 wrote:Just in case you do not want to build fan thermostat Stinger has any adjustable one available. The part number is SGJ11.

http://stingerelectronics.com/productDe ... tegoryID=3

Thanks for the link, but the one that I am going to make has a thermistor on it that I am going to attach to the tantrum, and when the thermistor get's hot, it will up the fan speed, and when it cools down, it will lower the fan speed. So it's alot more intense than just adjusting the fan speed

That and I LOVE building circuits and that sort of thing. I just love it. Especially adding some cool circuitry that is very useful and I created myself for my stereo install. I get off on that type of thing

That was one of the main reasons I added paddle shifters to my 1990 subaru, because it's awesome, and I wanted a challenge and love building shit

waynehead · Post by **waynehead** » Tue May 25, 2010 1:08 pm

hey man you know you dont need that xs2500 anymore. dont worry ill take it off your hands

lol

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Tue May 25, 2010 11:28 pm

waynehead wrote:hey man you know you dont need that xs2500 anymore. dont worry ill take it off your hands lol

Sorry, it's already heading off to PA to be put in that demo car with 9 other XS's

but if you really want one, PM me, I might have access to 2 more of them...

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Tue May 25, 2010 11:38 pm

So I bought most of my box building supplies today

I picked up a sheet of 3/4" MDF (did you know that you can't buy half sheets of that shit anymore

I went to 4 different lumber yards and asked them, and none of them had or would sell me a half sheet. I had to buy a full sheet and cut it in half for it to fit into my wagon, but at least now I have the stuff to build another box, so that's good), box of 1.25" coarse drywall screws, wood glue, counter sink to match drywall screws, and binding posts for the terminals (part Linky). So now I just need the t-nuts, but I wanted to wait until I saw the sub before I bought them to make sure I got the right size. I am leaning towards the 10-32 5/16, but I just want to make sure I get it right

So hopefully in the next couple days I will get around to cutting the wood so I can start building the box and have it ready for when my sub shows up. It shipped today, so hopefully by early next week I should have my 12

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Thu May 27, 2010 2:33 am

So I made some progress today. I installed some more of my "pretty" stuff, and finally gounded my cap! YAY! So ya...

PICS!

I replaced my battery terminals with something that I think we can all agree on is quality

Here's my cap finally grounded and working!

I was able to make a plastic cover to cover up the exposed top of my cap, so now I don't have to worry about something falling on it in the back and bad things happening. So that's good. I also used a PG ground block for the cap as well, but I didn't take pictures of it

Here's a pic of all my install stuff I picked up in my travels

The ground block is in this pick:

I thought about taking pictures of my 2 pieces of uncut 4'x4' MDF just for ttocs since I know he loves pictures of my wood

But I decided not to do that until I atleast have some lines drawn for my cuts on it

This weekends project is to build the box for my new 12. My speaker terminal should be here by Tuesday, and same with the sub, so I will be able to hopefully get the new 12 in my car by early next week!

Post by **ttocs** » Thu May 27, 2010 4:24 am

I am sure I am not the only one that like pics of your wood!

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Thu May 27, 2010 5:11 am

ttocs wrote:I am sure I am not the only one that like pics of your wood!

That's what all the ladies say

I couldn't resist man, I had to say something

str3atwarrior · Post by **str3atwarrior** » Thu May 27, 2010 6:43 pm

Looking good!

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Fri May 28, 2010 1:40 pm

Don't you just love it when a install starts to look all purdy

I took the time to paint it today, and what a difference it made!! I looks way better

It took almost 2 cans of spray paint, but luckily Lowes had it on sale for $0.99, so for 2 bucks, you can't beat that!

Here's shot of my painting progress and what it looked like before I painted it. This was after wiping it down with rubbing alcohol, and then taping it off.

I hit the bottom of the compartment just for good measure. Since the paint was only a buck, oh really cares!

It was all worth it to see this

I think it was a good transformation

It's been a good day, and my install is starting to look alot better. I also just found out that I will be able to get all my wood cut for my box tomorrow using my buddies table saw, so that will help out bunches. So this weekend the new sub box is being built!

eulogious · Post by **eulogious** » Fri May 28, 2010 10:43 pm

So over on my subie forums, one of the members found this stuff to use instead of the plexy, and I REALLY like it.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=262-872

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=262-878

This stuff is fantastic! The flat version is a big sheet that you can cut to any size you need. My compartment is 11.5"x37" and since they sell it by the pair, it will work great! It's a little expensive, but it will be good and look fantastic.

For added strength, which I will need on the right side becsause I always have stuff their, I can just paint that piece of MDF black, and put the grill over it and it will still look good! My tantrum amp doesn't need airflow directly above it like my ti, so having a solid piece of wood over actually helps because it directs the air over the amp, instead of up and out. I really like that stuff and I think it will make it "pop" for sure and still have airflow. I really don't need anything strong to protect the ti becasue I usually don't put anything over it anyways, but have the grill will be good because I can put groceris on it and lighter things without worrying about the amp. This stuff is perfect I think!

What do you all think about using the grill instead of plexy?

Post by **ttocs** » Fri May 28, 2010 11:54 pm

why do you say the tantrum doesn't need air directly on top of it? Almost ALL amplifiers need air directly on top of them and this one is not any different.

waynehead · Post by **waynehead** » Sat May 29, 2010 4:12 am

eulogious wrote:
What do you all think about using the grill instead of plexy?

i like it dude.

1990 Subaru Loyale Wagon Install!

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