My Install

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 6:16 am

Oh and I bought extra panels before starting just in case. Lol. All originals are tucked away nice.

Post by **stipud** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:19 am

Hmmm... to me "in your face" sound is what you want, unless I am not understanding properly. My guess is you find the drivers side tweeter less harsh like this because it is mounted some 60 degrees or so off axis, which would roll off the top end significantly (of course you will get some reflection off the windshield which will boost this back up a bit). The point with mounting in the lower A-pillars is that the path lengths between the two speakers are more equivalent. Not only does this mean less time alignment, but you will also have a much more similar acoustic space for the speaker. What I mean by that is with your current setup, the drivers side tweet will be up close to your ear, 60 degrees off axis, firing off the windshield directly in front of you, while the other tweeter will be only 30 degrees off axis, and has the entire passenger side of the car as the acoustic space. This means both tweeters would probably have very different response curves if you were to measure them independently of each other. Again, you can fudge that with EQing, just like you can TA the different path lengths, but I've always found that EQ and TA on a poor install works far worse than no adjustment on an optimal install. Not that your install is bad by any means... the tweeter location you chose could very well be the best sounding location in your car, due to some weird reflection issues elsewhere.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 6:51 pm

Thanks for the input. I have the day off again tomorrow so maybe I'll do some testing of different locations again. Changing the pilar is not a problem. I just want to get this right so thanks.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Thu Oct 04, 2012 9:11 pm

Ok, I'm a little frustrated. I'm figuring out that I know a lot more about what I don't know than I do know. Lol.
So how about trying it this way.
My goal is to build an incredible sq system but I also really like my bass. I've never been able to achieve the level of bass that I've seen a lot of guys have.
So here's the gear I have.

2001 Gmc Sierra 2500hd extended cab.
Dual batteries
H/U is a pioneer avicz140bh.
One driver 66 line driver.
Jbl MS8 processor
Eq232
2x eq215ix
DD5
Power core 15
4x ti800.1's ( if I can find one more )
2x ti500.4's
4x ti10d4's
3x ti6 elite comps
3x ti5 elite comps
1x ti9m elite mid drivers
2x ti rmd's
2x ti bass cubes
1x lpl

If any one feels like giving any ideas for the best setup that would be great. There are so many opinions out there and I want to hear them so I can build the best that I can.

I have a lot of other gear that I could use but thought it would be nice to just use the ti line which I love.

I don't know how to use computer programs for building boxes. So I'm looking for a box design for the for 10's.i don't know if I should use a ported or sealed box. I don't know how to tune a port. I've built lots of boxes, but that was all guess work.

00goobs · Post by **00goobs** » Fri Oct 05, 2012 8:18 am

Funny thing, I've had 2 JL10w3v3s in a sealed heavy ass enclosure with about 1cuft per sub. It had too much for my 600ti on 6.5 RSDCs and it was on it's own 600ti.

I would suggest 2 of the 10s in a sealed enclosure with 600 watts rms at 2 ohms each. Test the sound then finish your install around them. Rsdcomps at the kicks (complete set) then if you need to have 2 sets of 6.5rsdc up front, one pair of tweets pointed towards the middle of the truck and 6.5s on the door.

With the gear you have, it should be loud and nice on one set of RSD comps and a pair of 10s... Multiple comps in the front can be made to sound very nice, but I think is way above my skill level, hehehe...

The 9s in enclosures and recommended rms are nice, but in a truck with 10s in the cab I think they aren't necessary...

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00goobs · Post by **00goobs** » Fri Oct 05, 2012 8:21 am

I haven't tried my bass cube yet, but I've read that it will help you get lower frequencies with your subs in a smaller than recommended sealed enclosure. Something to try if you are going to use all 4 10s in a less than optimal sealed enclosure...

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Drock · Post by **Drock** » Fri Oct 05, 2012 3:40 pm

One problem I'm having is when I use the ms8 it sounds incredible. But when I take it out every thing is clear and loud but I seem to loose a range in the mids. It just sounds funny.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Fri Oct 12, 2012 6:09 pm

Just wondering if someone can help. I'm building my enclosure for my ti10d4's. I'm using four of them. The box is 4.8 cu ft. 1.2 cu ft for each sub. I need help with the port size and length. Not sure what it should be tuned to.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 1:23 pm

Finally had time to plan my door panels a bit today. Here is what I'm thinking. The 9m's will have .3cuft sealed. Also going to tilt the drivers a bit so they are pointing towards the driver, not directly into legs. I was also thinking of sealing the ti6 but it would be so small I'm not sure it would be worth the work. Let me know what you think. Also I was wondering about power. The recommended setup is using a 500.4 to run the three way. But that runs at only 18watts rms x 4 at 4 ohms. And the speakers are rated at 300 rms. would it not be better to run two 500.4's Briged?

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oldskoolmseriesfan · Post by **oldskoolmseriesfan** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 3:42 pm

For placement Id put the 6 and tweet in the kicks if you have the room. Im a huge kick panel fan, with the nines in the door and the 6and tweets in the kicks, in my opinion should sound really good. If you have the time, just play around with different placements and what sounds best to you is all that matters!!

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 3:56 pm

i thought the same earlier.

00goobs · Post by **00goobs** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 4:23 pm

The 500.4 bridged stereo to the 9s would be great. A 600.2 to the components with their crossover would be ideal. If you have another 500.4, bridge it to the components instead of the 600.2. I don't like the 9s on only 2 channels of the 500.4, they need some good power..

If you can seal the 6s, you should.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 4:41 pm

I'd love to build kicks but I just can't because of the e-brake being in the way. So I'll have to stick with the doors.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 4:41 pm

I have three 500.4's

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:12 pm

And two 600.2's on the way.

00goobs · Post by **00goobs** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 6:57 pm

250 watts rms is NICE!

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Drock · Post by **Drock** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 7:17 pm

That's what I'm thinking.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Sun Oct 14, 2012 7:10 pm

I just read your install and its looking good. I can't wait till I get my ti stuff so I could start installing them, will be my first time using them and I can't wait. Keep up the great work.

00goobs · Post by **00goobs** » Sun Oct 14, 2012 7:29 pm

I think you'll enjoy the TI line. I've had no complaints using 75 watts rms on a set of components on the 500.4. I could have always gone louder bridging or using a 600.2, but for spirited listening, the 500.4 never missed a beat. Aside from some fan noise if installed in the listening environment, the awesome crossovers and clean power should keep you smiling.

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Drock · Post by **Drock** » Sun Oct 14, 2012 10:16 pm

00goobs wrote:Funny thing, I've had 2 JL10w3v3s in a sealed heavy ass enclosure with about 1cuft per sub. It had too much for my 600ti on 6.5 RSDCs and it was on it's own 600ti.

I would suggest 2 of the 10s in a sealed enclosure with 600 watts rms at 2 ohms each. Test the sound then finish your install around them. Rsdcomps at the kicks (complete set) then if you need to have 2 sets of 6.5rsdc up front, one pair of tweets pointed towards the middle of the truck and 6.5s on the door.

With the gear you have, it should be loud and nice on one set of RSD comps and a pair of 10s... Multiple comps in the front can be made to sound very nice, but I think is way above my skill level, hehehe...

The 9s in enclosures and recommended rms are nice, but in a truck with 10s in the cab I think they aren't necessary...

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I will be running 4ti10d's under the rear seat. And a ti800.1 to each sub. One ti500.4 bridged for the ti6 comps in the front another ti500.4 for the 9m's and a third ti500.4 for the rear fill which is a set of ti5 comps and a set of 5-1/4 morel elate mid bass drivers run band pass.
I think this should make me happy. Because there is lots of low end and lots of high end, it seams no matter how much I tweak I can't get a good mid range. That's where according the the experts at pg, the 9m's come in handy. I'll be running them band pass like recommended. I just hope I can make them work and look good in the doors.
I'm more of a technical guy, and beat everything to death before I do things. But creative I am not. I've built lots of kicks but never a door. So I'm nervous of screwing this up.

00goobs · Post by **00goobs** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 4:18 am

Have fun, there have been books written on midrange placement and these guys are dealing with one set of drivers. By the sounds of what you plan to do, you'll have 3 sets of similar sized speakers covering similar ranges.

I've always loved the sound of a light rear fill and a strong front end. Being lazy, I've just concentrated on the front end, using my 500.4 to power Boston pro components and TI 9s for a front end. I didn't even use a sub for a few months tweaking the sound to something that made me happy. The TI 9s went easily down to 30hz and played it nicely. I think your rear fill should be left for something like an event where your doors are opened and you wanted to fill an area with clean loud sound. But driving, especially in a truck, you may want to fade out the rear and work on mid/high placement and tuning. The best/easiest would be mid/high in the kick panel area sealed or vented out of the vehicle. Many prefer mid in the kick and tweets in the pillar or even door corner where the mirror is for height and spacial enhancement. Even an off the shelf kick panel q form or something would help greatly with placement and ease of install...

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Drock · Post by **Drock** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 9:51 am

Hmmm. I just can't decide what to do.

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This is the kick area of the front drivers side. If I use this space I won't be able to use the ebrake. And would the enclosure not be so small that it would not sound good anyway. The passenger side is no problem, there is lots of space.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 9:55 am

Here is the a pillar. The tweets sound really good here I think but I might redo them at the bottom of the pillar closer to the dash facing in more as recommended by another member.

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dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 11:51 am

I've always been a fan of tweets in the lower A-pillar or sail panel myself. I've had the tweeters in lower locations before and as soon as a passenger is present, all imaging is ruined. The A-pillar location gives you a direct path between the tweeter and your ears and has less chances of having an object come between them.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 11:59 am

Drock wrote:Hmmm. I just can't decide what to do.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1350323212.710043.jpg
This is the kick area of the front drivers side. If I use this space I won't be able to use the ebrake. And would the enclosure not be so small that it would not sound good anyway. The passenger side is no problem, there is lots of space.

If you have access to a welder you can cut it half way down at the elbow and add a side piece then re-weld the rest going down, if that makes sense. So it would look the same just moved over a few inches to the right.

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