Phoenix Gold Phorum

Ok. So here goes. I'm away for for a couple weeks but plan on getting started on my install by the end of the month.
Vehicle is a 2001 gmc sierra 2500 hd.
I already completed the big three upgrade. Also I added a second deep cycle battery.

I will be will be putting Dynomat through the entire interior.

The gear I'm planning to put in:
Pioneer Avicz140bh head unit. Already modified dash to fit the double din opening.
Jbl MS8 sound proccessor.
A PG one driver 66. (A six channel line driver.)
One Elite.1 running 4 Ti10d's.
One Elite.4 running two sets of ti5 components for rear fill.
A second Elite.4 to run one set of 6" Dynaudio components and one set of Morel 6" subs for front fill.
Also have a set of JLC3650's up front.
All components are using the Ti crossovers.

I think this will sound pretty spectacular.

Things I would like to do or get opinions on.
I would like to add a set of 8" subs in the doors, but they are hard to find. If anyone has a set let me know.

I have a lot of older gear I've been collecting over the years. So I was considering fabricating a false toolbox in the back box and throwing 4 additional Ti10d's running either off of one rsd1200.1 or two Ti800.1 ( I'd be adding a third battery) this would be just for added cool factor) This would be a blow through into the cab, which I would put a switch upfront to enable or disable the extra sub amps so they don't run all the time ( just for that odd time when your showing off and want that little extra push.) lol.
If I can find a couple head rest monitors that would be cool but don't have yet.
I think that about does it.

What do you think?

Almost forgot. I also have a tantrum DD5 distribution to go in as well.

one driver 66 - did they change the name?

Not so sure about mixing and matching componants and cross-overs honestly. Putting together a killer set of componants is more then just selecting high-end componants and sticking them together. In order to get a smooth transition and accurate performance a good company will do alot of testing and tuning to get them all to work together correctly.

I know, I figured that. I do plan I replacing all the speakers down the roaf

Stupid iPhone.
Anyway that was supposed to say road.
The new amps are going to be a hard bill to swallow, but it's a treat. The speakers will have to wait.
That being said, my thinking on the ones I do have was that because I have a mix match of speakers (for now) that if I used the same crossovers through out, they would work a bit better together. I believe that it did work, running them all with two Ti500.4's. And it sounds incredible. Crystal clear and the speaker handle a lot of power very well. Leaving on a 8 hr drive today. I'll be working the system for sure.
As for the 66, I'm not sure about the name change. I'll post a pic. But I did look them up and your right, they do have two names. Maybe one was a USA model and one a Canadian model.

Here's the picture of the one driver.

Just a thought, since I did the wiring upgrades I added a fused distribution block inside just before the amps. But my old under the hood fuze block was to small to except the new 0/1 gauge cables. Does anyone have a PG fuze block for under the hood they want to sell?

Line driver 66

Drock wrote:Just a thought, since I did the wiring upgrades I added a fused distribution block inside just before the amps. But my old under the hood fuze block was to small to except the new 0/1 gauge cables. Does anyone have a PG fuze block for under the hood they want to sell?

What type you lookin for ... 1 in - 1 out ???? I have used a Tsunami pwr / gnd block as well as the street wires version, but all depends on how many inputs / outputs you need and what gauge wire for both????

Below are some examples currntly on the Bay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phoenix-Gold-BB ... 43b070e185

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phoenix-Gold-BB ... 43b070e185

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phoenix-Gold-Ti ... 43b070c6ee

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHOENIX-TXBB4-G ... 1e66ebb578

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TXBB4-PHOENIX-G ... 19be641965

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STREETWIRES-DIS ... 2c65f82a61

http://www.ebay.com/itm/StreetWires-Com ... 2a1e748614

http://www.ebay.com/itm/StreetWires-FBX ... fd&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/StreetWires-DBX ... 33&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/StreetWires-CBX ... 97&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tsunami-TPFDB-P ... 33&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tsunami-TPFDB-4 ... 03&vxp=mtr
I have this one and it works pretty good.

Yes I have the PG versions of these. But they are not water tight, so assumed they were to be mounted inside the vehicle. Maybe im wrong. But I would prefer a sealed unit with single at the battery.

Was looking at my gear this morning. I have the line driver and jbl proccessor, should the line driver be before or after the proccessor?

the line driver is supposed to be with in a foot er two of the source. The idea is to boost the signal prior to any noise being picked up in the rca's so the signal-to-noise ratio is lowered. If you put it in the back of the car then it amplifies the noise just as much as the signal = no bueno.

This stupid alt noise is really getting to me. I pulled the deck, ran new RCA's, (ran them down one side by them selves) I ran a new remote wire.
With everything disconnected from the amps I still get the wining noise. The noise must be getting into the amps some how. If power is connected but no remote to turn them on I still get the noise.
Going to try to move the amps tomorrow . It's the last thing I can think of. Maybe the new alt is no good.
So frustating

Line driver 66 or tld 66

How are you hooking up with elite amps in AB. ?

Drock wrote:This stupid alt noise is really getting to me. I pulled the deck, ran new RCA's, (ran them down one side by them selves) I ran a new remote wire.
With everything disconnected from the amps I still get the wining noise. The noise must be getting into the amps some how. If power is connected but no remote to turn them on I still get the noise.
Going to try to move the amps tomorrow . It's the last thing I can think of. Maybe the new alt is no good.
So frustating

Ummm, so if the amps are connected to power, but no remote power or connection, you still get noise through the speakers? Is there a power light on in the amps? Without the remote to turn the amps on, you shouldn't have any noise coming out of the amp...

Interesting!

Also, make sure to run your pwr / gnd wires seperately from you speaker wires, this is one of the biggest causes of noise that your describing, but is just my 2c and throwin it out there as a possibility. ")

Ummm, so if the amps are connected to power, but no remote power or connection, you still get noise through the speakers? Is there a power light on in the amps? Without the remote to turn the amps on, you shouldn't have any noise coming out of the amp

X 2

dvnt88 wrote:Also, make sure to run your pwr / gnd wires seperately from you speaker wires, this is one of the biggest causes of noise that your describing, but is just my 2c and throwin it out there as a possibility. ")

This is true to a point. Good gear it really should not matter but yet I have seen it happen too many times and its the reason I am running all my signal wires on the pass side and power on the drivers side.

Could the wine be any relation to the fact that he has his power wire connected directly to the alternator? HO alt at that.

no that is fine as that is the source of the power and where it comes from anyway. I basically just showed pics of how I did the same thing on my mustang running dual 0 awg power wire and ground wires. The power wire in mine starts at the battery as well, everyones does...

ttocs wrote:no that is fine as that is the source of the power and where it comes from anyway. I basically just showed pics of how I did the same thing on my mustang running dual 0 awg power wire and ground wires. The power wire in mine starts at the battery as well, everyones does...

Thats how mine is/always has been from batt, not alt. Never had any noise problems.

ttocs wrote:

dvnt88 wrote:Also, make sure to run your pwr / gnd wires seperately from you speaker wires, this is one of the biggest causes of noise that your describing, but is just my 2c and throwin it out there as a possibility. ")

This is true to a point. Good gear it really should not matter but yet I have seen it happen too many times and its the reason I am running all my signal wires on the pass side and power on the drivers side.

Exactly ...I've done the same on all my installs and have never gotten the dreaded alt noise / whine a lot of people run into.

its just 10x easier to keep them seperated from the beginning and not have to worry about then it is to try and narrow down later if there is an issue.

Ok, I'm as giddy as a little kid waiting to open presents on Christmas day. I finally have dead silence in my truck.
I ripped everything out and started from scratch. I upgraded every power and ground wire in the system., separated all the signal wires ( bought new twisted double insulated RCA's) it took me all day. But finally succes.
I also got the ms8 installed. So far I'm liking it. What a differance it makes in sq. Only thing I dislike is that In the setup instructions it say to only use the front Chanel's of the head unit for inputs. So two inputs are processed and you can get 8 outputs (7.1). But the problem by doing this is I loose control of the settings from the HU. I have to use the ms8 remote to make any changes. Not a big deal but will take some getting used to. Also what I don't get is if they only want you to set up using two full range inputs, why is the 8 inputs on the unit? Hmmm

It's a realy nice processor/EQ.