Phoenix Gold Phorum

What do you guys think of this setup for the a pillars. This is my third try. Lol. I think it will look nice. Will house the 3" dd mids and pg elite tweeter.

forget to post the pics?

Lol, that's what i was thinking, but i didn't wanna bust his balls anymore! Lol

if I was busting his balls I would say that this looks to be the cleanest install idea I had seen EVER!

Lol. Scott. Ya sorry.
Here is the pic, I just did the first layer of glass. Looks pretty good so far. I'll post another pic once it's dry.

Just curious, why are you adding the 3" in there? Will it be playing the same set of freqs any of the other speakers will be playing?

I like the sound much better with them in the pillar. Huge difference. I staged the speakers in different locations and this was the best. The old one fired into the glass. It sounded nice but not good enough for me. And I just wanted to see if I could do it. I just don't know what to do about grills for the 3"

Made a little progress today. First layer of glass done and sanded. Hopefully ill get another layer done tomorrow.

By "in there" I really meant in the 6" elite comps rather then in the a-pillar location. Are the 3's playing the same freq's as the comps?

No. It will be more of a three way active setup ti6 in doors will be set band pass. ( but the ti5 and tweet will be full range in the kicks.)

^^^^ Pillars are lookin' good bud ...need to get to some glassin' goin' myself, just not enough hours in the day.

Finally got an lpl and cube remote installed in the dash properly today. Ya, two less wires hanging out. Had a boo boo billing the hole for the remote led though. So that's why the fugley led mount. Best I could do with what I had.

I got the h/u mounted as well. As you know my year truck does not take a double din deck easily. I have a trim ring around the deck that sits in the dash bezel. My problem now is. How do I mould them together. Glass just keeps peeling off. It doesn't stick well.
Any ideas? Would like to get this done ASAP.

I think I finally found a set of door panels at a local wreckers. So finishing the doors is next.
Still need a set of ti9's.

Glass will "stick" to plastic but it doesn't bond to it. If you want to connect glass to plastic you need to drill holes in the plastic where the connection is made and then fill them so that it bonds "through" the plastic and will hold in place.

Otherwise though if its only a small gap go to autozone in the adhesive section you will find an epoxy called "plastic-weld". Its a simple 2-part epoxy you mix up and its thick enough to fill gaps/build on and when it cures is hard enough to sand to shape/paint to match. Be sure to rough up the area you apply it too and clean with alcohol first but otherwise its simple stuff to use.

Thanks Scott. Do you think bondo would work? I'm thinking the plastic weld to attach the two pieces, and then bondo to shape the bezel.

Drock wrote:Thanks Scott. Do you think bondo would work? I'm thinking the plastic weld to attach the two pieces, and then bondo to shape the bezel.

Yes Bondo will work for filling. I prefer Evercoat Gold its alot easier to work and sand and doesnt shrink as much.Its more expensive so if your not planning to do any more fill work for awhile go with the smaller cans of Bondo.

no need for the bondo really as it just adds weight and when the plastic weld dries it as strong/stiff as most of the pieces I have been molding into. Sands a little easier as well. If you want something to fill in the really small holes(pin-pen sized) get some glazing putty to go on top and then you will be ready for a high-build primer.

Well, I worked a tonne of hours all summer, so I did not end up doing much work on my truck. Or my garage.
But I am done work now for awhile so I can get back to working on both.
Finished getting the rear doors done. Installed a pair of ti5 comps in each door. Installing amp tomorrow. An elite.4. (Temp) (will be changed to the elite.2 hopefully soon). Rear channels at 2 ohm. Going to use one ti crossover per set mounted inside each door. Just have to build some kid proof grills now to finish off the doors.
I added three layers of deadening material. Can't wait to hear how it sounds.

Love those rear doors. Gives me ideas for mine lol.

Starting amp rack and enclosure tomorrow. Will be close to your setup. I had the similar idea, and when I seem it work for you I got excited to get it done.
I have to build a battery rack though. Four elites are going to be hard to keep up with.

I'm hoping to get some help. I bought an audio control rta meter awhile back but don't know how to use it. I would like to measure my system before taking everything out tomorrow, and then again after the new amps are installed and new subs. Any help to figure this out would be great.
Thanks

Lookin' good bud.

Drock wrote:Starting amp rack and enclosure tomorrow. Will be close to your setup. I had the similar idea, and when I seem it work for you I got excited to get it done.
I have to build a battery rack though. Four elites are going to be hard to keep up with.

I saw on another forum where this high school kid took a sawzall to his back seat, cut the middle section out, and threw a prefab box with a pair of Kicker 12's in there. I was impressed with the idea if not the execution. I went out and found an identical back seat to the one I've got, and it should be here within a week I figure. I'm working up ideas on how to use the space now, but mine will be changing, hopefully by Halloween.

I'm still having trouble finding a place to put my amps. I can't imagine trying to place four of them, say nothing about powering them.

I can put two horizontal across the back wall. I think I had a pic posted at one time. And I can fit two like yours on top of the enclosure.
Or I pull the seat forward a couple inches and mount them all vertically across. Or I buy a topper and well, sky's the limit. Problem with #2 is, as you know, the latches at the top of the seat would no longer work. So I need to figure that part out.
A topper would be nice but then I need to figure a way to remove the back widow. But I've heard it's a bitch to get a good seal between the cab and topper.
So I'm going to try #1 first

I was pretty much hell bent on doing a camper shell, and running the subs through the window for a while. Then I added some accessories to the truck the last couple of weeks and decided I liked the look of it now, and didn't want to F with that. Especially after already having put a pricey Roll-N-Lock cover on the bed, which I would assuredly lose my ass on if I tried to sell it used. So, now I am at converting the rear bench seat into a dual bucket configuration. I've decided that whatever I end up with, this is as far as I am willing to go with modifying the truck for the system. If I can't get it where I want it after doing that I'm going to quit.

By using the bench it'll retain the under seat space I already have, and gain a 17" wide space in the middle that I can go as tall as the back window with in the middle. I figure I can easily get 4.5 cubic feet, perhaps more, without being too inconvenient to rear passengers. The enclosure would resemble an upside down T, but of course, the transmission hump is killing me on everything I want to do regarding ports. Everything I have tried has a roadblock of some sort, be it the ports or the amp placement, always one or the other. I'll figure it out eventually though.

Got a bit done today.