And So It Begins.........Again...

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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by ttocs »

the breaker protects the 0 awg if it shorts out. I am not sure what you have it fused at but 200A is normal, sometimes more. So with that being the case if your 1200.1 has a problem it now has the ability to draw 200A - what ever teh 500.4 is already drawing. That will be too high of a rating for the amp. Again its been a while since I have had a Ti in my hands but I am pretty sure they do not run a fuse onboard like many other amps do.
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

No I didn't, I guess I should in which case I'll need some single fuses...
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

ok, first the fuse from the main batt is 200A. then 100A right before 2ND batt. just tested subs ohms & it read 2.5 so the subs coils seem to read good. I'll fuse the 500.4 soon as I have a60 I can throw in a block. I'll need to get a120 for the mono block. the subs box will be measured next...
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by ttocs »

even with the smaller fuse, you have nothing between that battery and the amps. so if there was a problem your amp at this point could draw all the power from the 2nd battery, and then it could only take 100 amps from the 1 rst battery.
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

so your saying I should fuse between the power core& Amps right?
I measured the box with peanuts & it's just over 4 cubic ft. looks like I'll be bracing...
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by ttocs »

yes as close to the amp as possible this time. I thought it looked about that big and was afraid it would be too much. But better too much then not enough. Have you considered cutting the top/face off, shortening it a couple of inches and puttine a new face on it? As long as there is room for the magnet you would smooth the design out a bit so it was not sticking out so much.
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

ttocs wrote:yes as close to the amp as possible this time. I thought it looked about that big and was afraid it would be too much. But better too much then not enough. Have you considered cutting the top/face off, shortening it a couple of inches and puttine a new face on it? As long as there is room for the magnet you would smooth the design out a bit so it was not sticking out so much.

I'd rather put a few 4x4 pillars inside than cut the top...the top sticking out will help protect the sub if I'm hauling anything as well so it won't lay on it or roll over on it. Plus I think I'll kill more space with pillars than cuttin' the top. Should 1 Cu. Ft. be enough or should I do more or...? You said something about liter bottles, just fill them & start putting them in to figure out the best air space solution? Math isn't my strong suite-how many bottles equal a cubic foot?
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by ttocs »

the bottle idea was just to test and see how much space you needed to take up to make it sound right. The liquid will not compress so throwing a couple in at a time would allow you to tune it to the proper airspace that sounds good to you although it would mean taking the sub out a few times. Not sure what the airspace requirements are for that sub, check the forum manual section and see what it recomends.

The volume the bottles take up would depend on what size bottles you use. Be happy to pull out my old-school Ti85 calculator and use its conversion functions to figure out the volume of each bottle you would use. Need the know the volume of the bottle and I can convert that to Cu ft.
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

Well it looks like about 28 liter=1 cubic foot. So fourteen 2 liters would bring it down to 3 cu. ft. The sub takes .02 cu. ft. Enclosed the subs recommended space is either 1.6 or 1 sealed & 2.75 or 2.25 depending on musical/spl. I'm hoping bringing it down to around 2.8 or so enclosed will suffice as that will be fairly easy to do. I suppose I can port the box & just put mesh over holes to prevent anything from falling in...or curved pipes maybe?
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by ttocs »

thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaats alot of bracing......... Like alot ALOT...... porting isn't as easy as just pokin a hole in a box. You would need to know the volume, figure out how long the port would be for the freq you desire, then subtract that volume(of the port) from your initial volume, minus the subs volume to get your final volume and THAT volume is what would need to be tuned for the proper port length port length. Ported boxes are normally designed the opposit way and why you will more often then not see the funky-shaped glass boxes are sealed. They normally figure out what freq they want the box tuned too and then see how big of a box/port they would need to get that freq(from manf specs or a box program), THEN they add those two together to get the final dimensions and can make adjustments there/there to the box/port design to fit the area.

If I were you I would consider possibly trying to get some closed cell foam. They make it in a two-part mix where you can mix it, pour it into the box to fill the floor and then it would expand and you could trim out what you need. Adding enough "bracing" to take up that much space will easily tack on another 30-40 lbs to the box I would think.

edit - 2nd thought is to get some open cell foam to lay in the bottom of the box. You can get floral foam(the green stuff ya stick flowers in) at craft stores in blocks that are easy to shape. Get them laid into the bottom nice and flat and then lay a layer of glass over them to seal them in and take some space.
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

well I'll need to fill half the floor up it seems in order to get the desired space. I was thinking of just walling in the top part so it basically just extends all the way to the floor. cell foam may do the trick tho since I have quite a bit of glass left. man I didn't realize how big my box was...
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

what if I use styrofoam blocks to fill the bottom & glass over that, would it work as well as closed cell? I have ALOT of styrofoam...
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by ttocs »

when I saw it at the start I thought it was for a pair. Then when you added the top part sticking up for one I was a little more concerned but was not familiar with that sub enough to know the required airspace. 10's can go as low as .5-.75 sealed often and 12's in 1-1.5 cu ft. The larger spl subs like larger boxes as well as anything kicker seems to make so that is why all I did was ask how big it was estimating around 4 cubes.

foam of any type should be ok, make sure its dry of course or there could be chance of mold or some other stupid problem I could not imagine. If you want to keep that layer thin, take some dowel rods and glass them into the foam to help support the new layer. If you do make it thin I would consider taking some sound damping and stick to it just to be sure that it doesn't resonate/vibrate/make noise.
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

Cool. Well I'm glad I made the top removable!!! I guess I figure the Elite would love all the room & didn't question my assumption...
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by LowandLoud »

The green foam you stick flowers in is called "Oasis".

Dont ask how i know, lol.

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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

now my brand new 500.4 stopped working! I've been playing it at low volume & checked wiring I'll throw meter on it tonight but can't think of why it would just die...maybe ilk have to figure out how to integrate the Ms1000 into the build... :wiring
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

never mind, figured it out...wheew!
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

Well I did some calculating, peanut filling, & decided it would be easiest to simply add a bottom to my existing enclosure in order to make it the recommended 1 to 1 1/2 cubic feet that the manual suggests. By doing this I am also able to keep the fiberglass form I created in case I'd like to build a different top to house two subs down the road...

I've also decided to add a hinge & lock in order to utilize the space under the sub for storage. I considered putting some of my components under there but would rather keep the current setup I've been working on...

I'll add pics soon but here's what I've done/will do.

The size is now around 1.35 cubic ft.
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

I went to buy a 120A fuse for the 1200.1 but he only had 150's. If I use one of my fuse blocks with 2 60A fuses & splice my 4Gauge wire into the 2 blocks (like a "y" connection) will this suffice as 120A? Or will it simply see two 60A fuses & pop 'em? Thanks
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And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Drock »

I'm pretty sure two 60amp fuses will work fine. That's how I'm running my fuses right now.
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

cool...
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

Had a smidge of time to do some work, got a question tho. Can I Hook up pwer to my powercore, run it to a fuse block, split into DD10 & 500.4 then just run the ground from the 500.4 into the powercore? Here's a diagram of what I mean...
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by ttocs »

they recomend its as close to the amp as possible but honestly would not hurt anything the way you have it. Although I thought it recomended fusing the core directly infront of it, to protect it from shorting between the core/fuseblock?
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by Wrennagade »

a fuse before the fuse? And I'm putting another 60A fuse right at the 500.4
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Re: And So It Begins.........Again...

Post by ttocs »

I thought it was in the manual somewhere but looking at it now I guess I am talkin out my ass.

I though the idea was that if the power wire between the core and either of your fuses were to short out that the core stored power would discharge. Putting a fuse on the wires next to the core would fix that but idunno....
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