Started my install

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Sun Dec 02, 2012 5:02 pm

I got 2 sheets of 3/4" mdf today to start my new box for 4 12" Soundstream Rubicon 12. Got the mdf all cut and going to start building it when the kids go to bed tonight. Box will be 8.4ft^3 net tuned at 32.5Hz, can't wait to start the build. I have over half of a sheet of mdf so I also going to build a center console. I was going to use 1/2" mdf for the console but I have lots of 3/4" so I'll just use that. But the center console won't be till after the box is build and painted, so a week or so. I'm going to build the box and try it out for a few days before I spend the time in all the prep work and paint so I don't do all the work and find out I don't like the box.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Sun Dec 02, 2012 10:28 pm

So here what I got done tonight, all put together drilled, counter sunk the holes also got the subs place where we like them. Tomorrow at some point I have to take the box apart cut out the subs holes, install some 1" screws in the double front baffle, brace and glue all the pieces and install all the screws and then silicone the hole box. (I may install the box for a few days before I take the time to do the next few step, I want to make sure I'm happy with the box before I put in the time to finish the box.) I have to sand the box smooth, still need to pick up for bondo to make it seamless and hide all the screws and countersink hole. I also have to figure out how I would like to finish the box, do I cover it or paint it? I'm also thinking of building a false floor to raise it flush with the rear cargo latch (not 100% sure on its name the plastic piece the covers the hook where the latch locks on) so the port doesn't sit around 2" lower then that plastic piece.

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:43 am

with as large as those panels are, and with as many subs it will have I would have designed some braces in it. You still can in a couple of different ways from drilling holes and adding dowels/threaded rod or putting them in once you cut the holes for the speakers.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Mon Dec 03, 2012 2:48 am

ttocs wrote:with as large as those panels are, and with as many subs it will have I would have designed some braces in it. You still can in a couple of different ways from drilling holes and adding dowels/threaded rod or putting them in once you cut the holes for the speakers.

Thanks I was planing to bracing the box, I just build the box last night to pre-drill and counter sink the screws. I still have to glue the box together, then install all the screws there only 3 per sides right now as I wasn't really putting the box together last night. It was more pre work then the actually box build.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 10:58 am

I so glued, screwed and silicone most of the box last night but had to stop cause my son had a fever of 102.8, but I got this far. I also got to cut the baffle and let me tell you that it took me like 2 hours to cut 4 hole on the double baffle with a jig-saw.

Next time I have to cut in to a double baffle I'm buying a router with a circle jig to make my life easer.

Today I finished the box with bracing I used 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" and I installed the top, now I just have to let the glue in the braces and the top to dry then I could finish with the silicone. The brace is glued and screwed with 2" screws its not moving.

Now I just have to buy some body filler to fill in the hole and make the box smooth and sand, also have to figure out how I'm going to finish the box. But I will be installing the box for a few days before the filler and sanding to make sure I'm happy with the box so I don't waste time doing the last few steps. Don't want to do all that work to find out I don't like the box.

Post by **ttocs** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 3:22 pm

dremel makes a circle cutting part that I use.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 3:52 pm

ttocs wrote:dremel makes a circle cutting part that I use.

Ya I saw that today at the store, but last night all I had was a jig saw. lol It did the job but took forever to cut the holes, I just have to sand them down abit to make the subs fit.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:17 pm

So I made my false floor today, stared off with cardboard to get the shape I needed. Then cut the 3/4" mdf board to size, I used the left over from the board build. The floor is glued, counter sink and screwed to 2 X 4 to raise the floor, floor will be carpeted to match the carpet in the van as close as possible.

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Then I installed the box in the rear and came across a problem, when I raise the floor the box box now sit 2.25" higher and 2" from the rear hatch. The reason for that is when I design the box is was to sit on the floor of the van, so I had the 18" from the top of the back rest on the rear seat. But by raising the floor it sits 2 1/4" high so I no longer have 18" deep cause the back rest on the rear seats are angled back and can not be adjusted. I don't really want to modify or built a second box, would like to try and work with this one.

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So I was thinking of turning the box around and having the subs and port firing into the cabin. When I use the subs the rear seat will be folded down so they won't hit the rear back rest, when the kids are in the van the subs are turned off anyways.

Now do I need to wall off the box from the rest of the interior? If I do need to wall it off, does the wall have to be flush with the front of the box or can I wall it of lets say in the middle of the box?

Just wanted to share a picture of the gear I'm using in this built.

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The cost of doing this upgrade to the system is a Ball Python Pewter my girlfriend wanted. Just wanted to also share that with you guys, so don't be grossed out.

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Post by **ttocs** » Wed Dec 05, 2012 8:04 pm

I had a ball for years. They are great as far as snakes go. Don't get so big you will have to worry about any other pets or small children.

I built a system with 4 12's in an acura and funny enough had the same problem. We could not move the subs up at all because of the trunk size so we ended up shaping the false floor around the bottom of the subs. Never liked the look but could not be helped unless he went with 10's.

if you have a table saw you can cut the top off with out too much trouble and then remake it to fit.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Wed Dec 05, 2012 9:18 pm

ttocs wrote:I had a ball for years. They are great as far as snakes go. Don't get so big you will have to worry about any other pets or small children.

I built a system with 4 12's in an acura and funny enough had the same problem. We could not move the subs up at all because of the trunk size so we ended up shaping the false floor around the bottom of the subs. Never liked the look but could not be helped unless he went with 10's.

if you have a table saw you can cut the top off with out too much trouble and then remake it to fit.

We have 21 ball pythons, 3 boa and some lizards. We are going to start breeding balls next breeding season, we moved to here we live at the end of April have a spare room (only need 4 out of the 5 room). So we were like let start breeding balls, we have the room now so went went out and dropped around 6 grand in balls, custom snakes racks, heating equipment, supplies, rats, rat racks and other stuff. So we hope to make some of that money back the up coming season. We breed our own rats and nice, we also sell some when we start to have to many. lol

Wow 4 12" in a small car, must of been a nice set up you had. I would like to make this box work some how, I want to hear what it sound like. I don't have a table saw just a jig saw, I had Home Depot do all my cuts when I bought the mdf. I'm going to try turning the box around and having them fire into the front and see what I get out of them. I may also try a quick wall to see if that make any difference, just not sure if the wall have to be flush with the front of the box or can I start it in the middle of the box.

Post by **ttocs** » Wed Dec 05, 2012 9:57 pm

it was was a customers car. Now that I think about it, it was a complete pg system from x-max 12's to zx amps and it was loud as hell. Only car I ever got to build that would make your vision a little fuzzy and knocked a light out of its fixture when we tuned it. Funny enough he came back about a month later because he could not open the trunk. I guess the vibrations messed up the mechanism as didn't matter key, remote, pull - had to jimmy it open.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Thu Dec 06, 2012 1:43 pm

All I had time to do today was mount the subs I wired them to a 4 ohm final load, just wanted to share .

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Now I just have to mount the amps, then try it out with the subs facing forward may also try the box facing the rear and see what it sounds like. If I'm happy with it time to take everything out and finish the floor and box.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 12:19 pm

So I mounted the two ti800 on the back of the box and the 475 on a 3/4" mdf board to try out the box. I know the wiring looks bad but its just to try out the box and is just temporary for now. I also make a this for the remote wires.

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Well the first time I tested the box was 4" away from the rear hatch door and didn't sound good at all. When I was adjusting the amps it sounded great but when I went to sit in the driver seat it sounded like crap. So I started thinking its was to close to the rear hatch and the sound wasn't going over the box and into to cabin. So I moved the box back a few inches around 6-7" from the hatch and that made a difference and started to sound better. Today I moved the box back as far as I can it at the 3rd row seat belt plate that bolted to the floor. What a big difference from the other two placement of the box, its like night and day. So now I'm going to try and turn the box around and having the subs and port firing into the cab and see what that give me. I need my 3rd row seat so I can't leave the box pushed back that far. Now I just have to find somewhere to mount the amps, cause when I'm turning the box around it will be push as far back as I can against the rear hatch so I won't be able to mount the amps behind the box.

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 4:55 pm

I think I heard somewhere in my install career that if you put a box with in 1/2 the woofers diameter from a solid surface that there is a good chance you will loose output. So for a 10" sub box you need to leave it 5" from the wall/floor/what ever, this was at a shop that liked to do down-firing boxes though so its a little different.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 5:10 pm

ttocs wrote:I think I heard somewhere in my install career that if you put a box with in 1/2 the woofers diameter from a solid surface that there is a good chance you will loose output. So for a 10" sub box you need to leave it 5" from the wall/floor/what ever, this was at a shop that liked to do down-firing boxes though so its a little different.

See I was told and read online that you need to be a minimum distance of the port, so I have a 4" wide port so I need to be 4" from the hatch. But I don't agree with that at all after I tried it cause the output sucked, the more I moved the box from the hatch the more output I had. Tomorrow I'm trying with the box firing in the front of the van.

Now I'm just trying to figure out on how to properly gains match the strapped ti800.1.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:17 pm

Question for you guys, when I turn the box around and having the subs and port facing the front, if I were to put a board of mdf where I drew a red line to mount the amps would that affect the sound at all? The top of the board would follow the roof lines. I really not sure on where to mount the amps, I don't really want to mount the amps on the box. I know thats where the 2 800 .1 are for now but its only temporally there.

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Post by **ttocs** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 10:03 pm

will probably effect your rear view mirror, could possibly make the car not street legal if you have to pass inspection. Should not effect the sound at all.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 10:08 pm

ttocs wrote:will probably effect your rear view mirror, could possibly make the car not street legal if you have to pass inspection. Should not effect the sound at all.

The rear view mirror is useless anyways it keep moving down with the bass, I barley use it anyways. Even with the 2 12" and one ti800.1 its was always moving and kinda useless you don't really see anything out of it. lol Even the gps I have on the windows is useless now but it doesn't move down it moves upward. Thats nice to know it wouldn't effect the sound, I will turn the box around and just have the amps on the floor to try it out first. I don't want to take teh time and make the board and found out it doesn't sound good. lol

LowandLoud · Post by **LowandLoud** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 5:15 am

Years ago i had an 88 Mazda P/U. It was a regular cab and it eventually ended up with more equipment than i had space for. The 2nd system i had in it consisted of 2 XS 10's, 1 behind each seat in seperate boxes. I had 3 amps, mounted to a wooden frame, that completely blocked out the back window. The only thing i was really concerned with was theft. I had double limo tint on the back window and made a removable panel to cover the amps from the front.

Being in the custom truck scene, i have seen some pretty crazy things done to trucks. From painted windows, to completely shaved (welded shut) rear windows. As far as i know, as long as there are 2 functioning side mirrors, you dont even need a rear window to be legal.

Eventually though, i did get sick of not being able to see. Thats when the Mazda got a full blow through. With 4 10" Xmax and 4 amps mounted in the bed. It sure was nice to have leg room again! Good luck which ever direction you go.

LL

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 7:59 am

it depends on where you are at but I am sure there are more then a few places that would not let it pass inspection. Besides that though have you conisidered what could happen if you were rear ended? Make sure its all mounted supers solid hate for your gear to be the last thing to go through your mind, literally.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:28 am

ttocs wrote:it depends on where you are at but I am sure there are more then a few places that would not let it pass inspection. Besides that though have you conisidered what could happen if you were rear ended? Make sure its all mounted supers solid hate for your gear to be the last thing to go through your mind, literally.

Yes I know the false floor would be secured to the floor of the van, the box would be bolted to the false floor and the amp rack would also be bolted to the box and maybe the false floor. As for theft I live in a small town full of old people and I live about 30 mins from the a bigger town and 1 hour from the big city. I'm not saying it can't happen but I'm not to worried about it.

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 11:43 am

I would figure out some way to mount the top of that amp rack to the top of the car. There will be so much weight up there that if you were to have to stop fast(IE - rear end someone), that would be a HUGE amount of force being transfered all the way down. If it were made of metal I could see it but with wood I would definitly figure out some way to mount it on top as well.

tattooemil · Post by **tattooemil** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 11:51 am

if you would mount the amp rack on top of the box you could maybe use some rubber suspensions to dampen the vibrations to the amp rack?

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 1:20 pm

ttocs wrote:I would figure out some way to mount the top of that amp rack to the top of the car. There will be so much weight up there that if you were to have to stop fast(IE - rear end someone), that would be a HUGE amount of force being transfered all the way down. If it were made of metal I could see it but with wood I would definitly figure out some way to mount it on top as well.

If I were to mount the amps on a board on top of the box I would make sure it wound't go anywhere that for sure. I don't really want to mount any thing of the roof of the van, I think it would be too much trouble.

I'm thinking of selling the box and subs and just going with two 15" one per amp. Try something out it a 6 cube box instead of the 8.3 cube that I'm using now.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 12:34 pm

I decided to keep the 4 12" to at least next summer, cause its getting to cold to start all over now. I was wondering if I were to add a 3rd mdf to the front to flush mount the subs how much would the change the tuning? Right now its tuned to 32.5 hertz if I were to add a 3/4" mdf what would the tuning be now?

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