Phoenix Gold Phorum

never thought you would do a happy dance for a part that costs a nickel huh?

ttocs wrote:never thought you would do a happy dance for a part that costs a nickel huh?

He He no I didn't think so either but when I opened the package I couldn't stop smiling

yea I know that feeling of finding a small, nearly insignificant piece that NOBODY else that ever looks at it will realize what it is/was or how hard it was too find, just to satisfy that OCD part in my head. Yup I have been there many many times...

Congrats its just another small piece that will put this project over the top.

the way in which the wire is crimped?

marko wrote:the way in which the wire is crimped?

Crap... you actually saw that, well then i have to buy me a crimping tool that does the job like the original crimping.

But wich one is the correct one marko

I bought a fancy crimper last year when I made my spark plug cables a custom length that does perfect crimps.

ttocs wrote:I bought a fancy crimper last year when I made my spark plug cables a custom length that does perfect crimps.

Well, I actually have 4 different crimpers with torque, but non of them makes the crimp exactly as the original. So it's out searching for the correct one since marko spotted the difference...

someone gets in that close to your amp and I would just smack in the back of the head. Don't want the amp to get cooties!

Nils wrote:

marko wrote:the way in which the wire is crimped?

Crap... you actually saw that, well then i have to buy me a crimping tool that does the job like the original crimping.

But wich one is the correct one marko

not sure, the one on the right looks a more factory crimp but has more copper showing so not too sure!

marko wrote:

Nils wrote:

marko wrote:the way in which the wire is crimped?

Crap... you actually saw that, well then i have to buy me a crimping tool that does the job like the original crimping.

But wich one is the correct one marko

not sure, the one on the right looks a more factory crimp but has more copper showing so not too sure!

That's right marko, the one on the right is the factory one.

ttocs wrote:someone gets in that close to your amp and I would just smack in the back of the head. Don't want the amp to get cooties!

I'll have to do some thinking here....

It might actually be cool to just build end caps with nothing on the end and mount all the connectors on the bottom panel and then mount the amp onto a panel that you can flip up to do all the connections and adjust the gains. I built an amp out of a MS2125 heat sink and mounted to MS275's into it with the wires coming out the ends. Then used the two empty heat sinks to put over the ends of the amp to hide all the wiring and make it look like one long amp. I orginally used the MS2125 heat sink to cover a EQ215x with 2 MS275 on either end making it look like one long amp.

Nils wrote:

ttocs wrote:someone gets in that close to your amp and I would just smack in the back of the head. Don't want the amp to get cooties!

I'll have to do some thinking here....

Come on Nils... you know better, we need LOTS of pic's!!!! Also, When you make you end plates for the rca's etc, how many are you making?

freshkryp69 wrote:

Nils wrote:

ttocs wrote:someone gets in that close to your amp and I would just smack in the back of the head. Don't want the amp to get cooties!

I'll have to do some thinking here....

Come on Nils... you know better, we need LOTS of pic's!!!! Also, When you make you end plates for the rca's etc, how many are you making?

Sorry guys... When I'm back on track I promise lots of pics, too much to do on the house and doing things with my family
Well, I will cut out as many as I want/need both in MS and MPS style

Nil's.. I need a front plate made for the ms475 im doing..maybe like a mq430 plate?

freshkryp69 wrote:Nil's.. I need a front plate made for the ms475 im doing..maybe like a mq430 plate?

I have just cut out endplate's for Frank's Sister so there is some progress here, I do not remember how many MQ430 endplates I have, I'll check, or you can send me a pm or email with a drawing I can try to cut one for you, it don't have to be a "CAD" drawing just where you want to have the different holes

Any progress on this? Still cant wait to see the end results...

Macgyver76 wrote:Any progress on this? Still cant wait to see the end results...

Well, the progress has been really slow here, it stoped a bit after i cut out the endplates, and suddenly figured out that something happened during converting the file to the cnc plasma cutter, the height was correct but the length was a bit short, and then the Family has taken the rest of my sparetime i have planned to do some work this weekend

Nils wrote:

Macgyver76 wrote:Any progress on this? Still cant wait to see the end results...

Well, the progress has been really slow here, it stoped a bit after i cut out the endplates, and suddenly figured out that something happened during converting the file to the cnc plasma cutter, the height was correct but the length was a bit short, and then the Family has taken the rest of my sparetime i have planned to do some work this weekend

Yaaaaaa...... Results... we want results!!

kom igang nils, vi vil se den blive klar inden sommer!! <------- Danish / Norway people do understand that! ( Scandinavia )

Jeg skal prøve så godt jeg kan Corty75 jeg skal faktisk på ferietur til Ditt land i sommer

Not a really big update, but I ordered some Alps parts from Mouser, located where all of the original Phoenix Gold cables was hiding, tapped out holes in the Frank's Mistress sink, destroyed two tappers.

But I need help, I need some new vertical sliding switches, that are original, or looks like the original ones, help? Can someone point me in the right direction? They should be on on, two pole and non shorting.

I had to use a replacement switch on a MS275, the "common/float" switch was missing and I couldn't find exact replacement but anything similar (same pin lay out) should work, might not have switch sticking out of the panel like the original but you should still be able to switch it over through the switch hole.

trickyricky wrote:I had to use a replacement switch on a MS275, the "common/float" switch was missing and I couldn't find exact replacement but anything similar (same pin lay out) should work, might not have switch sticking out of the panel like the original but you should still be able to switch it over through the switch hole.

Thats one of the switces i'm going to replace, bridge/stereo switch and common/floate switch are horisontal an i want to change them into vertical switches like the master/slave and hi/lo current switches, the original manufacturer is YSC, but i do not need 2000pcs so it would be nice if someone could point me in the rigth direction, to "original" ones or some that are cosmetic likeish, like the master/slave and hi/lo current switches

surely someone has an amp relegated to parts that can snag a switch fer ya

ttocs wrote:surely someone has an amp relegated to parts that can snag a switch fer ya

Well i don't have a heart to destroy so many Phoenix Gold MS amps, because i need 26pcs to all of my Projects

I'll check it out, am pretty sure mouser has them...thats where I ordered mine and a few from JandRelectronix for the Soundstreams amps. Do you know if all of them are the same? By same I mean same pin lay out? If possible provide a specific pin lay out (with exact dimensions) and I'll point you in the right direction..


Now if the float and the stereo switch are the same then the switch I bought will work perfectly for you....I'll look for the pics of mine so you can see how it looks (I believe I sold the amp a while back hopefully I still have pics.) Looks like its the same pin lay out as the high "current/power" switch.