"THE BEGINNING" V-2

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Thu Jan 22, 2009 8:23 am

I had the same issue with my install. I updated the negative and positive from the alternator to the battery to 1/0, and ran a positive and negative 1/0 from my battery to distro blocks in my trunk. This left me with no more openings for my battery terminals plus I had a straight run of 1/0 from the alternator to the battery to the trunk so upgrading the ground wires at the battery were not necessary.

Post by **stipud** » Thu Jan 22, 2009 8:44 am

bruther wrote:I guess my question is, do I really need to upgrade the ground wires at the battery if I'm going to have large ground wires in the trunk?

The battery ground should always be the same size as your power/ground in the back! D/C current flows in a loop, so all of the power is restricted by the weakest link. If you have a dinky 10 gauge stock ground, that means all of the power is running through that little wire!

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Thu Jan 22, 2009 5:43 pm

stipud wrote:
bruther wrote:I guess my question is, do I really need to upgrade the ground wires at the battery if I'm going to have large ground wires in the trunk?
The battery ground should always be the same size as your power/ground in the back! D/C current flows in a loop, so all of the power is restricted by the weakest link. If you have a dinky 10 gauge stock ground, that means all of the power is running through that little wire!

I have 1/0 running to the back of the trunk from the battery. I have two 4 gauge wires running from the battery to ground. I then have two 1/0 gauge wires being grounded in the trunk.......So do I still need to upgrade that wire at the battery?

Post by **stipud** » Thu Jan 22, 2009 7:07 pm

bruther wrote:I have 1/0 running to the back of the trunk from the battery. I have two 4 gauge wires running from the battery to ground. I then have two 1/0 gauge wires being grounded in the trunk.......So do I still need to upgrade that wire at the battery?

The 4 gauge will suffice, but 0 gauge would be "better". For that short of a distance you probably won't notice a difference, unless perhaps your terminals aren't fully grounded.

Stryker · Post by **Stryker** » Thu Jan 22, 2009 8:07 pm

that is some fine work. i can't wait to see the finished product. i guess i should take pic's of my up coming install as well.

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:01 pm

The Build 21.

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:03 pm

The Build 22.

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:05 pm

The Build 23.

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:07 pm

The Build 24.

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:09 pm

The Build 25.

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:11 pm

The Build 26.

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:13 pm

The Build 27.

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:15 pm

The Build 28.

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:15 pm

Half way there.

drivingdadevil · Post by **drivingdadevil** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:49 pm

Looks good Bruther. Glad to see your putting that 600.2 to good use.

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:13 pm

....Ahh, the tri blue leds light!!!! nice, i luv seeing those amps showcased together like that, keep the pics coming!!!

Post by **Rold Gold** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:20 pm

That's pretty slick........

I recall seeing an Integra type-R with a similar setup here in P-town. The dood was running a Ti 9-6-tweet set off a 600.2 for each side and a Ti1200.1 on a JL 13w7 in this 6cube dual slot ported monster and the ports were a "JL" and pointed at the glass. He took first in Amatuer SQ & installation and 3rd in SPL

Awesome work dood. Make sure to pop-dat-trunk open every now and then and show them sexies.

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 8:08 am

I just have to install the rear coaxials and 400.2

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:40 am

Again, nice work on the fiberglass sub enclosure. I love the factory look of it.

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 1:32 pm

dwnrodeo wrote:Again, nice work on the fiberglass sub enclosure. I love the factory look of it.

I was looking for the clean look. When looking at the interior of the car I didn't want anyone to know what is hiding in the car. I like everything to be hidden. I still plan on building a cover for the amps. The only thing you will see is the venting slots for air circulation. I'm not sure what I'm going to with the sub. The 400.2 that is going to run the coaxials is going to be installed in the trunk floor, opposite of the subwoofer. There is currently a 3 inch foam bottom in there. In the next couple weeks I will be making the fiberglass part for the amp. Still trying to fully decide how it is going to look. This system has been extremely difficult to tune. There are so many working parts to get right. I don't really like the SLD44 given that it has a tuning pot for each channel output. The old line drivers had one for each pair. I'm not sure of another way to do it. Does anyone have any ideas? Is it better to turn the gains all the way up on the SLD44 and turn the sensitivity down on the amps or vice versa or middle of the road for both? Is anyone in the DC area that wants to help tune the vehicle.....very hard with just one person.

Also, I am using the PG platinum directional RCA cables from the Line Driver.....WHich direction is the arrow supposed to go towards??

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 3:43 pm

I would turn the gains down on your amps and use the line driver gains to control your voltage. As for matching the left and right channels, use your DMM to set the channels to the same output voltage. Do one channel at a time to check for clipping, reduce the gains slightly and then use your DMM to get them exactly the same.

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 4:56 pm

dwnrodeo wrote:I would turn the gains down on your amps and use the line driver gains to control your voltage. As for matching the left and right channels, use your DMM to set the channels to the same output voltage. Do one channel at a time to check for clipping, reduce the gains slightly and then use your DMM to get them exactly the same.

What is the DMM?

dwnrodeo · Post by **dwnrodeo** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 5:44 pm

Digital Multi Meter. You can pick one up for $20 at radio shack or Sears. You can use it to measure the AC voltage coming out of your line driver.

Link to instructions below.

http://phoenixphorum.com/gain-setting-w ... vt280.html

bruther · Post by **bruther** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 6:54 pm

So my next question is......what AC voltage is recommending going into my amps? knowing all the components I have what do you guys think??

thedeal7235 · Post by **thedeal7235** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 7:14 pm

it depends, ask stipud he knows alot about this, i did my gain settings this way , and have had NO ISSUES anymore with blown sppeakers- ie- just google -sqrt(4*150) thats if ur running the one 600.2 150watts by 4ohm=24.49, or the other 600.2 sqrt(4*600)=48.98, or if ur rainbows(ur seprates right? are 2ohm the sqrt(2*300)=24.49,same as 4ohm multiplied by 150 watts, then you put in a cd recording of 60hz sine wave, disconnect all your speakers, turn ur amp gains all the way down-sld44too, put ur DMM in ac volts, play ur 60hz sine wave test tone, and turn ur h/u up to its max undistorted volume,
now what i did-and has worked for me, is i unhooked the rcas from the amps first, and checked the voltage coming out of my sld-44, for example i use the mx3i external xover for my mids and sub, and i use the zx475ti internal xover for for my tweets-knowing the zx475ti can accept , at most 8volts( and yes the specs say 6 volts, but almost all pg amps will take 8 volts- i ensured i had 8 volts coming out of the tweeter rca, then i made sure i had 11volts coming out of the rca for the mx3i xover b/c its specs say it can handle 11 volts, then i reconnected my rca to the mx3i, with mid and sub level independent gains down to zero, then i rehooked my ti600.2 for mids rcas back up, and the sub amp-rsd1200.1-amp rca back up, turned the 60hz sine wave back on, and began to check my 600.2 at the speaker inputs , and turned the independent left/right gains for mid slowly up till i achieved exactly 24.4 for 150 watts by2 at 4ohm, then i checked the voltage at my rsd amp, with my lpl turned all the way up-that way i can not go beyond the gain for my lpl, only down, and put the probes on the rsd1200.1 speaker inputs , and turned my gains up on my external xover untill it hit 52.2( which is the sqrt(2*1400) formula, dont mean to get so in depth, there are more posts here on it, but once u spend time, and begin to understand it more, it, imho, is the best way to gain set amps-probably a rta would be even better, sorry, didnt mean to get sooooo lengthy, but this method has made a WORLD of difference for me, and i never woulve known that , if it werent for the phorum here