Fooling around...
Fooling around...
For shits and giggles I just RTAed my home stereo off of my laptop microphone. Not too bad with a bit of EQ (note rolloff below 100Hz and above 10kHz is from the shit mic).
I was surprised that the treble was actually the weak point in my enclosures.
Here is the uncorrected v.s. corrected right speaker:
Anyways, these images are mostly a joke right now. I have a calibrated Behringer condenser mic en route to me, so I should have some real tests within a week.
On an unrelated note, does anyone know of a decent 8" OVERALL DIAMETER driver? Everything I can find is 8.25-8.75", or even bigger. The only 8" overall I can find is Goldwood or Dayton Classic, but they wouldn't be a huge improvement on my speakers.
I was surprised that the treble was actually the weak point in my enclosures.
Here is the uncorrected v.s. corrected right speaker:
Anyways, these images are mostly a joke right now. I have a calibrated Behringer condenser mic en route to me, so I should have some real tests within a week.
On an unrelated note, does anyone know of a decent 8" OVERALL DIAMETER driver? Everything I can find is 8.25-8.75", or even bigger. The only 8" overall I can find is Goldwood or Dayton Classic, but they wouldn't be a huge improvement on my speakers.
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- fuzzysnuggleduck
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Correct. Blue = pre-EQ, yellow = post.fuzzysnuggleduck wrote:I assume he's talking about using his graphic EQ to flatten everything out when he says "corrected".
It's funny... I look at 7" speakers, and they are all 7". I look at 6.5", and they are all 6.5"... why is it that 8" drivers are all over the place? All of the best brands seem to go with 8.75". Ah.. hopeless.
8" is the O.D. Annoyingly enough the edge around the driver is bevelled, so it would be a dirty mess if I tried to do anything bigger. I could probably make 8 1/16" work if I sanded down the ridge a bit.
Here's some pics:
http://photo.stipud.com/stereo/home/
Here's some pics:
http://photo.stipud.com/stereo/home/
They are generic OEM garbage drivers... look like shit.
Nuance brand speakers... some Canadian firm that was pretty popular here a few years ago. No idea where they sourced their drivers, as I can't find any manufacturers markings on them.
You can see the raw drivers in this pic: http://photo.stipud.com/stereo/home/DSC01720.JPG
I'll have to pull them out of the cabinets and take some pics in a bit.
Nuance brand speakers... some Canadian firm that was pretty popular here a few years ago. No idea where they sourced their drivers, as I can't find any manufacturers markings on them.
You can see the raw drivers in this pic: http://photo.stipud.com/stereo/home/DSC01720.JPG
I'll have to pull them out of the cabinets and take some pics in a bit.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=295-310
simulated .4cuft no real change up to 1 cuft.
simulated .4cuft no real change up to 1 cuft.
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- Dayton 8.GIF (10.8 KiB) Viewed 7660 times
I think we've established that "Ka Ka" and "Tukki Tukki" don't work.
Ah, yeah, that was the Dayton I was checking out. If I can't find anything I may give it a shot, along with a tweeter. After fooling around with the EQ, it actually looks like the main weakness in my stereo is that the tweeters are too quiet (or the midrange is too loud). I have to bring the rest of the midrange to damn near -12dB just to get it playing flat like that.
I've heard wonders of Dayton products, but that was mostly praise for the reference line and their higher end stuff. Not sure how the classic woofer will sound. Hmm.
I've heard wonders of Dayton products, but that was mostly praise for the reference line and their higher end stuff. Not sure how the classic woofer will sound. Hmm.
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I guess if I built an 8" to 6.5" adaptor plate, but that makes having such large towers somewhat more pointless. If I decide to go smaller or bigger I will probably have to get new cabinets as well unfortunately.
Oh well, fugeddaboutit for now. I'll start worrying about this shit once I have a real microphone I can calibrate with.
It looks like the real piece of shit in my system is the subwoofer anyways. While I can get the towers to play down to 40Hz easily, I can't get the subwoofer to add anything until above 50Hz. Stupid $50 piece of junk
May be throwing one of these in it's place: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdet ... er=264-854
Oh well, fugeddaboutit for now. I'll start worrying about this shit once I have a real microphone I can calibrate with.
It looks like the real piece of shit in my system is the subwoofer anyways. While I can get the towers to play down to 40Hz easily, I can't get the subwoofer to add anything until above 50Hz. Stupid $50 piece of junk
May be throwing one of these in it's place: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdet ... er=264-854
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