I found my new towers for my HT!!!

Post by **mr tibbs** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:05 pm

Seriously, I'm gonna build these, same drivers and everything. My only question is which x-over to use? I have some spied on parts express but don't know which ones to go with . What do you guys think out of these?? Here is a teaser pic!

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 7:55 pm

Those Dayton XOs look nice but I'm somewhat interested in what brand, type and tolerances the components are. I'm not doubting quality, but it'd be interesting to know for sure.

I would think Errin would be a good person to ask about these things.

I noticed those towers use the Dayton Reference Series? I have them setup as rear fill in my truck, and although I barely use them, they do sound nice in the Toyota factor ported rear speaker boxes.

Post by **mr tibbs** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 8:24 pm

Yeah, I just kinda need something that works. I really don't need anything fancy. I have been dying to try out the Daytons' ever since I first found out about them but have never had a chance until now. Maybe Errin will pop in and give me some x-over advice. I really am clueless about them.

bretti_kivi · Post by **bretti_kivi** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 3:35 am

... so why not try Zaph's designs? zaphaudio.com...

gkitching · Post by **gkitching** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 4:17 am

I have a PG Passive x-over chart at work. I will scan those pages and load them up when I get in today.

Personally I like the enclosures!

Post by **Rold Gold** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:21 am

Those are pretty sweet!!!! They'd go great in a log cabin or theme'd room. As long as there aren't any kids to fuk with 'em......

Post by **mr tibbs** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:26 am

FuzzyHoNutz wrote:Those are pretty sweet!!!! They'd go great in a log cabin or theme'd room. As long as there aren't any kids to fuk with 'em......

No kids here, and they go great with the entertainment center that me and my buddies built! I seriously think I'm gonna have to give these a try. Where the hell did I put that chainsaw??!!

Post by **stipud** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:45 am

The Dayton ref speakers are fantastic. As for the crossover, look at the spec sheets of each speaker you buy to see how low you can drop each speaker. Make sure there are no phase or impedance issues around that frequency. Go just above the lowest frequency for the tweet, and above the lowest frequency for the small midrange if you can. As for the big speaker, try to port it to 40Hz or lower. A 1" port out the back should be fine for it, but that might be tough to do out of solid wood.

For example:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/RS28AS-4_specsheet.pdf

It plays as low as 1kHz on the diagram, but there is an impedance spike and weird phase issues there, so I would probably start with 2kHz, or even slightly higher.

Then we have a 4" midrange:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/295-378s.pdf

It is good from about 250+.

And finally a 10" midwoof:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/RS270S-8_specsheet.pdf

This speaker plays deep, but it has a rolloff that looks like it would need to be ported to get the most out of the low end. There are of course many alternative bass drivers you can try out.

So with those drivers, I would personally start with this crossover:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=260-150

Out of those drivers, the 1W/1M efficiency rating is the lowest on the midrange. You might go with a larger driver to get a bit more efficiency out of it; ideally you want to match these as close as possible.

The 6" and 8" for example have the same efficiency as the tweeter:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/295-362s.pdf
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=295-366

On the other hand, the 6" may not sound as good at the tweeter crossover frequency compared to the 4". So perhaps a 5" driver would be the better compromise in this case. It's truly a balancing act!

Post by **stipud** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 7:19 am

FYI I found many of the spec sheet links were broken. They reference http://partsexpress.com instead of http://www.partsexpress.com. So if you click a link and don't get the manual, try adding www. to the URL.

Post by **mr tibbs** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 7:38 am

Thanks man! I'll take a look around and see if I can learn to understand the x-overs a little better. I understand the general jist of it, but don't fully grasp everything.

Post by **bdubs767** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:29 am

IMO for an xover NEVER use a standard xover. In the home you really need a xover designed for your particular drivers and enclosure. There are some great companies otu there that will design a xover for you.

The xover is the heart of a good loudspeaker, if thats not optimized your in big trouble.