peculiar issue hu &/or DD10

[mhyde71]

okay here's the deal
from time to time- one of these two things will occur

#1) equal to or less than only 7volts from remote wire running from HU to DD10....
if i take/place a jumper from the 12.5+/batt, over to the remote it like kicks it in it's ass and poof now i have 12.5 from remote and am good for a while (hours, days, weeks) -

WTH is all that about...? if i was showing 7v from remote (consequently nothing works/is on) and all i do is jump it for split second- why does that work IOW change the voltage reading and why for different amounts of time periods...(?) strange


#2) perhaps related to #1- but just now coming back to work from lunch- had something playing and was lettin' it breath a bit and was bumpin' for short stretch- and it started to cut off- like one amp at a time-
so i pulled over and looked at the gear and noticed that the bottom left light in DD10 was out- perused over the other gear- and by time my head/eyes made it back to DD10- the light was back on.

NOW when #1 happens the RMD up front is shut off, IOW power is off...

WHEN # 2 just happened it read 11.1 - 11.3 - 11.5v at the rmd- BUT still 14.4 at the other voltage display i have in car measuring from the cig lighter

AND while we're at it- lets make it three things...

#3) WHY WHY oh WHY is it- that i steadily have 14.4-14.5 on the Voltage display on the cig lighter meter- BUT the RMD is always like 1v off. if cig lighter reads 14.2 - the rmd will read 13.2- it's like it is always exactly 1 whole volt off -

first thing im gonna do tonight is simply measure the voltage at the amps and compare to the RMD-

BUT w/ 0-ga from the battery, a 15F power core, 220amp HO Alt, and a Batcap 800- I should not be having power issues - wtf is going on!?!

Last 6-7-8 months it has been just fine- havent changed anything and only as of late have issues 1, 2, or 3 presented themselves to me- Whats going on!??!


pls thx
matt

[kg1961]

forget what you read can you hear anything differnce ? maybe the Rmd is reading what is after the amp/pc is using? I don't really beleave them myself but maybe that just me.
has you alt be ok since you had the problem about 8 months ago?
maybe this is a sign to sell me you guts on the pc...just kidding

[mhyde71]

yeah- I thnk the alt has been doing just fine since then- perhaps a small piece of metal shaving when i had to cut it fell in there and has since been released/removed - BUT

Yeah i am not so so sure i trust that RMD reading...

As far as listening is concerned

like issue #2 on way back to work from lunch - the amps were tricking off one by one and i would have to turn down and wait a sec or two and they would pop back on-

BUT i think it is a function/consequence of issue #1- but it's weird...

WHAT CAUSES only 7volts for a short while from your remote lead? and when i jump it- why does it get back up to 12.5+

weird weird

[longboard]

cant you swop out the deck for another one and retest see if it still has the same problem?

[GX3]

When you have 7V on the remote at the DD10 have you checked the voltage on the remote at the back of the HU? If you have 7v at the DD10 and 12v (14.4v) off the deck..... bad wire/................ but it sound like the remote out of your HU is going. If this is the case (has happened to me) just tap off your accessory wire going to your HU or replace HU with the DD10 you shouldn't get a turn off POP. If you do there is a simple circuit (small cap and diode) you can put on the acc wire going to your line driver to delay it from turning off before the DD10 turns off the amps. But I dont think you will have that problem.


Thanks to stupid we still have access to this

http://download.phoenixphorum.com/TechSupport/delay.pdf

[GX3]

As for the RMD isn't there a calibration pot on it just for this reason? Or am I thinking of a different display??

[GX3]

Any luck????

[mhyde71]

uh- well- not sure about calibration pot on the rmd- BUT will check it out tomorrow

BUT i have basically figured out the cutting out- loose remote wire

BUT doesnt explain the 1-2 volt diff between the front V-display versus the PG RMD meter...

keeping you posted tomorrow

[ttocs]

my rmd was off by at least a volt as well when I got it and there is a pot on the back. Just hook up yer meter(pretty sure ya got one!) and then adj the rmd to what the meter reads. I did mine with my meter reading the terminals at the amp itself, not the rmd.

As for the rest of it, it sounds as though you remote turn on is out for some reason. The easy fix is just to swap the remote wire from the deck to the switched wire.

[mhyde71]

SO yes in deed there is a pot on back of RMD to adjust/calibrate the voltage meter...

SO i went trough all the wiring in trunk and measured w/ DMM- at the battery I have a good/stong 14.4 running off ALT.... get back to teh trunk (running with 0-ga to trunk) and all i can get is 12.5.... WHY IS THAT? there is prolly a 16' stretch of 0-ga to trunk and would have thought that i wouldnt be loosing any juice w/ the 0-ga?

any thoughts/idea's/comments....? all welcome-as i would like to get 14.4 to the boot- that was the idea of running a 14.4v 220A HO ALT w/ 0-ga wire...!



m

[stipud]

Wow thats a ton of voltage drop for 0 gauge. What happens if you test the 0 gauge right near the battery terminal (but on the wire itself). Perhaps you have a bit of corrosion under your battery terminal?

Grounds are also massively important. I am sure you sanded the paint right off? You're not just using a thin welded on panel, but something structural?

[mhyde71]

Wow thats a ton of voltage drop for 0 gauge. What happens if you test the 0 gauge right near the battery terminal (but on the wire itself). Perhaps you have a bit of corrosion under your battery terminal?

Grounds are also massively important. I am sure you sanded the paint right off? You're not just using a thin welded on panel, but something structural?

yeah on wire itself up by the battery reads 14.4v

I have the ground in the boot with one of those ground thingys that you tie in to / screw into the floor....AND yes- i scraped the paint off underneath it as well.

Perhaps - it may be lil rusty- i mean we're going back now maybe 12-16-18 months now sine i did that-
there was/are spotty times that the meter will read 14.0+- BUT it has been quite some time since i can recall that reading from the RMD....

I have two other meters in car (HU and Radar) and they both read 14.4 (14.1/14.2/14.4/etc)

BUT in the back nothing close.

tried all sorts of combinations- like at the amps, at the spot where the ground and pos come into play like at PC15, etc etc

[stipud]

Do you have a run of a decent sized wire? Maybe you could sling it from the battery ground to the back of the car, and then use that to probe between + and the new wire to see if it's your body that is causing the voltage drop?

[ttocs]

I assume you upgraded the stock power wires as well correct? We had a situation that was similar in a high-power system that we did for a customer as we just could not figure out why it didn't have the power at the amp. Turns out that the installer upgraded the factory ground from the battery to the chassis and went directly to the frame which should be just fine. If I remember correctly this was a nissan truck and they used large rubber pieces to isolate the frame from the body, and appearently the bolts used didn't conduct very well at all either as if we tested from the amps terminal to a solid part of the frame in the back we would get 2.5 volts more then we would grounding it to the body

This would also be a great time to start simple and get the stupid stuff out of the way. Disconnect all your power/ground connections and clean them with some sand paper.

[mhyde71]

okay cool^^ will do

and yes big three done as well
maybe on 1 or two of the big 3's i just piggy-backed the 0-ga on the stock 4-ga- but perhaps not- perhaps if i look i will find that the 4-ga was completely removed and turned into 0-ga- but it's been over a year+ so i cant recall clearly clearly- but can check - BUT yes- did big 3 back in the day

matt

[ttocs]

I have always been suprised to see that the factory grounds when removed were bolted to the painted surface. A little paint on the connections along with a little corrosion added in could take a couple of volts no problem.......