Optima Battery

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james--hughes
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Optima Battery

Post by james--hughes »

I am in the market for a new battery for my truck. I have a bunch of stereo in there and I think it is time for an upgrade. So here is the question. What color of optima should I buy red, ble or yellow? Our local Costco has blue ones on sale, so will this work?

I am thinking about maybe running two of whatever I choose. In this case will I need an isolator?

Thanks.
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kg1961
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Post by kg1961 »

blue and yellow are the same deep cycle just the blues are for boats
Im using a red top got it at walmart same with my wifes car
most people use red if it the only battery but if you have more than one use the blue/yellow
Tom is the only guy I know that runs the yellow as he had problems with his car and the red tops. He said they just kept dying
I have used SPIRALCELL® battery since 1994 and they have never let me down yet
Last edited by kg1961 on Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:28 am, edited 2 times in total.
most of my gear is gone :liar:
2020 honda accord sport
james--hughes
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Post by james--hughes »

So could I use a blue then? I know you said boats, but from what I read there kind of like a hybrid starting, deep cycle battery. Maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks
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kg1961
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Post by kg1961 »

boats because most of them don't have a alt. in them to keep it charged
I used one in a vw golf I had a large system in for 4 year it was fine
most of my gear is gone :liar:
2020 honda accord sport
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bretti_kivi
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Post by bretti_kivi »

the blue ones are - as the man said - normally OK for deep discharge use. Check it, and if that one is, then go for it.

I'll be probably going for one of these myself soon, I got the OK for the petrol heater (yay!).

Bret
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knightrider358
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Post by knightrider358 »

Ive had my yellow for 5 years and havent had a single issue w it yet and Im running around 120-140 amps off of in in audio equip.
Current 1 of 2 current installs

HU-Alpine IVA-D310
DSP-PXA-H701
Comps-JL ZR 650
Sub-3 JL 10w6v1ae's sealed
Highs amp-MS275
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Subs amp-MS2250TA
lashlee
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Post by lashlee »

I use a red top up front, with a zoptop, and a kinetik 800 in the trunk. In theory you are supposed to use two of the same battery if you are not using an isolator or relay. I've used a relay in the old setup for years but switched to parallel wiring with no isolator once I started using the charger at shows. I've been using it that way for over a year now with no issues.

As a side note, I had three different yellow tops go bad, each time they dropped a cell before I gave up to try another brand.
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dedlyjedly
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Post by dedlyjedly »

As much attention as we all pay to the color of the tops of these Optimas I find it a bit ironic that the color of the battery itself that is somewhat more revealing about the battery itself. If the case around the cells is a light grey it indicates that the Optima in question is a deep cycle battery. A dark grey case indicates that it is a starter battery. You can get the blue top in either variety.

You will pay more for a deep cycle Optima but it will give you more life cycles on the battery. The starter batteries can still be deep cycled (completely drained) many times without damaging the battery, but also offer a very marginal performance gain over the deep cycles for the typical audio application. With either variety the key to getting a good life out of it is PROPERLY re-charging after it has been deep cycled. That means a low current trickle charge. You don't want to just jump start it and use the alternator to charge it.

Optimas are good batteries for the money. There are better out there, but you'll likely pay through the nose for them. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet claiming that Optimas are poor performers. Most of it likely started with frustrated owners that unknowingly destroyed them by improperly re-charging them over and over.
ttocs
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Post by ttocs »

I have to agree with him. After working for two dealers that sold them I have never bought one myself even with the discount. They are great for show cars and vehicles that are NOT daily drivers but as he said for the money you can get better. Just get the highest CCA rating you can.
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bretti_kivi
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Post by bretti_kivi »

very nice to know. I was going to use a charger built in to the car anyway (and plug it in overnight after the wife drains the aux battery by having the heater on too long). Now I understand that this is actually pretty important. Cool.

thanks!

Bret
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Irongoats
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Post by Irongoats »

Yellow top here and Kinetic makes them for about the same money that supposed to be designed just for stereos.
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cyberpunky
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Post by cyberpunky »

As stated its the grey that tells you start or deep cycle. the blue tops have stainless fittings due to rust in salt water conditions and is only difference from red or yellow
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rscecil007
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Post by rscecil007 »

dedlyjedly wrote:As much attention as we all pay to the color of the tops of these Optimas I find it a bit ironic that the color of the battery itself that is somewhat more revealing about the battery itself. If the case around the cells is a light grey it indicates that the Optima in question is a deep cycle battery. A dark grey case indicates that it is a starter battery. You can get the blue top in either variety.

You will pay more for a deep cycle Optima but it will give you more life cycles on the battery. The starter batteries can still be deep cycled (completely drained) many times without damaging the battery, but also offer a very marginal performance gain over the deep cycles for the typical audio application. With either variety the key to getting a good life out of it is PROPERLY re-charging after it has been deep cycled. That means a low current trickle charge. You don't want to just jump start it and use the alternator to charge it.

Optimas are good batteries for the money. There are better out there, but you'll likely pay through the nose for them. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet claiming that Optimas are poor performers. Most of it likely started with frustrated owners that unknowingly destroyed them by improperly re-charging them over and over.
This is great info as I was looking into these as well.

What's a decent battery if not Optima, if you will only have one battery in your daily driver?

I've read on the off road forums the Sears Platinum Die Hards are rebadged Odysseys, which seem to be a favorite with the off road guys and all their winches/lights/etc in addition to their stereos. Possibly a decent option?
"Never underestimate the predictability of stupidity."
ttocs
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Post by ttocs »

living in pheonix the heat of the summer just cooks batteries here and I have been lucky to get 3 yrs out of any battery out here which from what I hear is normal. The car dealers take them out of the car and store them inside as a car that sits for more then a month can kill the battery.
gridracer
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Re: item

Post by gridracer »

kg1961 wrote: I have used gel cell battery since 1994 and they have never let me down yet
Optima's are not gel cell batteries. Also all boat motors have a charging system.
Last edited by gridracer on Sun Oct 17, 2010 4:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
exist2serve
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Post by exist2serve »

I'm a fan of Stinger thus far
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cyberpunky
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Re: item

Post by cyberpunky »

gridracer wrote: Optima's are not gel cell batteries.
its common misconception.
They have the electrolyte in liquid form, like a conventional battery, but it is absorbed into glass matt. The surface tension of this arrangement means the liquid doesnt move and so behaves sililar to a gel battery ie it doesn't slosh around, but by definition its a liquid not a gel, so calling it a gel cell is a misnomer. This makes these AGM batteries very reliable, able to be mounted in non-conventional positions like on side etc, and also means they don't leak or spill.

The optimas take things another step(over other AGMs) by using a spiral cell construction. This optima claims enhances reliability as it reduces the plates inside the cells ability to buckle. In my experience the optimas are V reliable but whether spiral cell construction over other AGM batts is superior or that other AGMs are any less reliable is hard to quantify. I don't think its an issue in a daily driver although it may impact on longevity, but may be more relevant for vehicles used in more extreme situations like off road.

I think one of the main issues with any deep cycle battery is ppl's lack of understanding of what battery makers consider deep cycling and what end users think it is. End users often think deep cycling means you can totally flatten battery(below 8 volts or lower) and then recharge it with no damage, where battery makers tend to state you can take the battery below normal usable voltage ie 10V (which is flat, for all intents and purpose but not completely drained) and then recharge it without harm.

Its this extreme flattening that damages any battery. As long as you avoid extreme flattening, you should find most AGM batts provide years of trouble free service, while providing with high reserves of power relative to batt size.

peace
Cyberpunky
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