chrome plating

Post by **mhyde71** » Wed Aug 25, 2010 11:32 am

ttocs wrote:I didn't really realize there was a chrome powder, do you have examples?

The pieces were individually cut and are recessed into the wood piece so they are flush with the top of the cover. If the edges were not perfect or the holes didn't line up it would not work so would probably end up shipping a 4ft long tube.

I am not worried about the flexing problem as the way the are mounted they will not flex as they are screwed down to the mounting boards.

i do have some chrome samples... but i just also received in that new patented heavy duty chrome last week and havent done any samples of yet. but even still the chrome i do have which is from columbia coatings, is very very good too!

I say the best thing to do is a sample and shoot it to you and that way you can get a hands on feely touchy feel with it in person...

I do also have that black chrome you mentioned in stock also
i could shoot sample of that as well- but the first chrome would be quick/er as i am shooting it as a base for randys two amps. and wouldnt be nothing to hang a pipe or scrap metal part and shoot it and send it down first thing.

if i understand this right you're looking at a qty of six (6) 4' stretches? and the PG logo???

this is one of my vendors here: and their chrome powder they offer:
http://www.columbiacoatings.com/category_s/28.htm

i also have that real good chrome from www.powder365.com- but it is not listed on their site yet as it is so new.

BUT also understand that all these street level vendors that i get the powder from- it's kinda like gas. In the sense that there are three or 4 major players in the mfg'ing of powder, AND ALL these street level vendors all get from same place or two.

so chrome with columbia, chances are is the same chrome from caswell, or powder365... but whatever the story is... they all have and distribute their powder and typically speaking it is all from same place (well kinda)- but you get it

anyways- for all 6 pieces and pg logo chrome powder coated with appropriate clear coat, looking at $125.00 plus whatever the shipping is back to you.

i say i just shoot a sample and send it to you and you can decide... you know what real chrome looks like- allow me to show you what chrome powder looks like-

Post by **mhyde71** » Wed Aug 25, 2010 11:48 am

sounds like these two are the two powders you would be in need of for your strips:
TIGER Drylac Xtreme Chrome 49/90177
SUPERDURABLE CLEAR GLOSSY CLEAR COAT 38/00001.

and i bet also that they are the powders that these street level vendors use. tiger is the mfg...and but they also dist direct- but their 2# minimum prohibits me from having them as my primary vendor.

here is also an interesting read i found poking around on net just now:

TIGER Drylac Xtreme Chrome 49/90177
This powder is the mac-daddy workhorse of the TIGER Drylac chrome family. Let me tell you that this chrome is amazing. High sheen and excellent reflectibility. This product must also be clear coated. We have tested all of our clear coats and the best results as a top coat to Xtreme Chrome is the SUPERDURABLE CLEAR GLOSSY CLEAR COAT 38/00001.

IMPORTANT TIPS ON APPLYING CHROME POWDER FINISHES
We are all taught that in a two coat process, to only cure the base coat for approximately 1/2 to a 3/4 cure and then pull out of oven, let cool, and apply the topcoat. Once topcoat is applied, return to oven for a full cure cycle of the topcoat. This method of cure does not work so well with Chrome type finishes. The chrome finish will look more like a glossy grey than a chrome reflective surface.

CHROME POWDER CURE CYCLES require that the chrome powder reach nearly a full cure so that the majority of its reactions have taken place. At this point, you will be blown away by the reflectivity acheived, however, you must apply the clear coat. Application of the clear coat and the cure of the clear coat will dull the appearance somewhat and take away a bit of the reflectivity, however, if done properly, the results are amazing and the most chrome like a powder can get these days.

and/but then there is this too: (interesting- some real good looking work)
http://www.google.com/images?q=chrome%2 ... 52&bih=771

JK · Post by JK » Wed Aug 25, 2010 2:30 pm

holy shit! after all you have typed. i would say you earned your money..

if i was ttaco's i would say hell yeah! on getting a sample. he will save 355. im not making any money, so it dont matter to me. personaly to me they dont look the same. thats just my opinion.

Post by **ttocs** » Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:02 pm

I would be an interested in both a regular and a black chrome sample.

can you paint on top of this?

JK · Post by JK » Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:14 pm

ttocs wrote:I would be an interested in both a regular and a black chrome sample.

can you paint on top of this?

two tone powder coating......

Post by **mhyde71** » Thu Aug 26, 2010 2:09 am

yes-you can paint on top of powder if you so choose...
what is it that you would like to paint on top of it?

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Aug 26, 2010 7:44 am

I am not sure if the solid chrome color on these would eb too much or too bright which is why I painted the green stripes on them to help break them up. I Would have you do it but I am willing to bet it would be a little hard to match the factory exterior color of Dark metallic forest green.

Shoot a sample when you get a chance of the chrome and the black and this sounds like the way I would go.

Post by **mhyde71** » Mon Sep 13, 2010 5:44 pm

oh hey ttocs...

here is link for you to see samples/pics of the chrome and what it looks like... even more attractive/flashy in person... but perhaps it helps get you the idea of what it looks like.

The first 5 pictures of the second set are the pieces that have been chromed AND are the pieces i am referring to -

http://phoenixphorum.com/l-k-mikes-dd10 ... t=cannones

Post by **ttocs** » Mon Sep 13, 2010 5:50 pm

I will be getting in touch when I have all the pieces ready. It might be a while as I will have to build the doors first.

Post by **mhyde71** » Mon Sep 13, 2010 5:53 pm

ill be here! take your time...

ill be shooting randys stuff here pretty soon- got his third and last amp in for the set - all to be done same this should be nice...

but yeah he is doing a black chrome on the sinks... so i will have some samples for you and his covers are going to have a base coat of that durable patented chrome also - so youll get to see both chromes for samples for you to consider.

Post by **ttocs** » Tue Sep 14, 2010 1:00 pm

I have been trying to decide what I want to do when I upgrade my stock ground and power wires. I am going to make a cover for my coil, and also use that point as the ground point for the block to the batt and the chassis. I am thinking about having these pieces done as well but would need to leave the spots where the ground lugs will be mounted raw so that they can still conduct. Could I send the pieces with the spots where they mount masked off so that you can cover them and then take off the tape/vinyle to expose the raw metal below it?

Post by **mhyde71** » Thu Sep 16, 2010 11:53 am

just show me exactly where you want it to be masked... when it comes in to me- i will still run it thru the sandblasting to give it an 'etched" profile to the metal for the powder to have some teeth to sink/bite into -
so it'll get torn off...PLUS i have hi-temp masking tape that is used specifically for just this type of thing.

so thats the deal there anyways- if possible
matt

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Sep 16, 2010 12:19 pm

sounds good, I will need the back to be raw as well to allow the grounds to do their job.

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 4:05 am

as for prep, how smooth do I need to get these? Should I bother stripping the clear/paint off of the long pieces that I already have done, you mentioned something about blasing them so I would assume that would take the paint off. For the coil cover I am making now how far should I sand them down? You made it sound like you want a little tooth there for the powder to grab to, is a 400 or a 220 too low?

Post by **mhyde71** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 6:20 am

sanding with 220 is typically what i use when sanding with paper.

but regardless.... whatever you send me i will still bring into the sand blast booth, B/c, the pieces can not be touched by bare hands once sanded/blasted... due to the oils on fingers... so given it will be shipped to me... it could also get crud/crap on it in shipping and would have to be blasted anyways... NOW unless you are very aware / retentive then maybe the piece would come to me ready to simply hang and shoot. BUT i suspect not... think i would want to still give it a once over with the blaster anyways.

so yes... i will sand blast everything that comes in for coating. so you wouldnt have to worry about sanding anything off or anything like that...the blaster will pulll it right up w/ no problem.

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 7:39 am

there are a couple of scratches on the piece I made to cover the coil that I will want to sand out before I send it to you, you can do what you want with it.

Another question - will jb weld be ok in your oven? I wish I knew how to weld but I don't so I had to make do with some jb weld.

Post by **mhyde71** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 7:45 am

ttocs wrote:there are a couple of scratches on the piece I made to cover the coil that I will want to sand out before I send it to you, you can do what you want with it.

Another question - will jb weld be ok in your oven? I wish I knew how to weld but I don't so I had to make do with some jb weld.

JB will bubble up in oven.
found that out / learned that when doing itchy's cousin of frank ... i filled the holes with JB weld and they all bubbled up/over. It is an epoxy.

Hi-temp lab-metal
seen here: http://www.columbiacoatings.com/High_Te ... _s/334.htm

is the powder coaters "jb weld"
works great... and hopefully this doesnt screw you up too much... but perhaps we can figure out about maybe how to or when to remove the JB and use the lab metal...
i have it in stock, but think i need/should get a new can b/c this one is about 9 months old. Think i can thin it out with acetone or DA, but think i would just like a new can...

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 8:00 am

ah well that means I will be rebuilding this piece then which kinda sucks but is not too unfortunate as There were some small pieces I was completely happy with.

Post by **mhyde71** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 8:04 am

can you snap a pic or two and post..>?
show me exactly what you're referring to or trying to do? are you looking to smooth something out or what? i mean if i need to or it is desired for me to, i can blast off the JB weld in/with sand-blaster...? perhaps>? saving you the trouble and maybe you wouldnt have to re-do anything>? idk what exactly is going on that you require the JB and or what it is being used for? like to see... it may be of no consequence if it is in an area that is not visible.

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 9:59 am

it was not quite the way I wanted it(perfect) so I have been considering doing it again. I have spent more time thinking and planning it then I have building it so it will not be too hard to re-build, probably have it finished again tonight.

Post by **mhyde71** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 10:17 am

lab metal can be thinned out with the proper thinner (acetone or DA or something specific alvin tech sells) down to the point where you can put in spray bottle and spray on... just to let you know... so if theree was something that maybe you were trying to smooth out or fill in, this might be the way to go... i dunno just thinking out loud.
m

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 10:25 am

I am using the bolts that hold the cover on to also work as the two bolts I need to upgrade my big 3 wires. I cut a relieve in the top of it so that the two 1/0 wires could be ran next to each other and will sit about 1/4" below the rest of the cover(to be chromed) I made some braces out of the aluminum and drilled holes in them, and then used the jb weld to stick through the holes and hold the braces in place. While I am sure it would have held ok it was only later that I thought about yer oven. I am going to rebuild the piece and just have the braces spot-welded into place the way I wanted to, but I do not know anyone that welds. I will hit up a local muffler/exhaust place and see if I can get it done for the price of lunch or so, shouldn't take more then 2-3 mins to tack them in place.

Post by **mhyde71** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 10:29 am

i have ark welder and do simple tack/but welds.
but might be best you bring to somewhere in person and point and say here is where i would like it welded from here to there and that way no confusion or anythign stupid like that- but i do have welder in shop

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 10:51 am

I will need to have it fully set up and working before I break it down and have it covered and to tell the truth I want to learn how to weld. Now that I think about it I took the stang to a carshow last weeknd and got a quote on having them weld 2 more exhaust hangers on my side exhaust. They seemed like some nice guys, I will see if they can help out.

I also want to build my next amp rack out of aluminum so that it will be nice and sturdy to hold the roadster and yet not add too much more weight. I want to keep everything easily removable as it just makes everything so much easier to service if it is needed, as well as easy to remove if I go to the track.

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 4:28 pm

is it possible to cover it in black chrome, and then mask off an area and shoot the regular chrome over it? Will you see it?