My new M50 and Replacing the caps question...

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dgoodhue
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Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2007 1:49 pm
Location: Framingham, MA

My new M50 and Replacing the caps question...

Post by dgoodhue »

So I got my new so call mint M50. Its in very good shape but I wouldn't call it mint. Screw holes (I knew about these) b;lems, one edges is slightly worn down and the their is small place where the powder coating looks to be lifting. Overall is its in very good shape, I can't have every thing perfect and this is going into my beater anyways.

So after breifly testing it, I start pulling it apart to replace the caps. I can't not see any repair just a couple of finger prints on the gold of the circuit board. To my suprise the 3 caps aren't how I expect to them to be. The top most cap by the heat sink is empty? While the lowest one that is usually empty has a cap in it. They still have their factory silcon and it doesn't look like any messed with them ever . PG filed the empty holes with a wire & solder. When using hte solder wick, I found out why PG left that cap empty, the square pad was missing.

So anyway I remove the old caps (none of them were leaking) and I lifted a pad (the small square one) My first instinct to run a wire from the back side of the cap to the front of the board where the circuitry is. Is this what you would do for a lifted pad?
Dave
91 GMC Syclone - PG Ti 500.4AL, Boston Acoustic Z6, Exile XT10
12 Legacy - Stock
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Eric D
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Post by Eric D »

A photo would help to come up with a plan.
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dgoodhue
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Location: Framingham, MA

Re: My new M50 and Replacing the caps question...

Post by dgoodhue »

Here is the M50 with the caps (sorry about the picture size I can't figure out how to resize the images on my wifes Apple)

Image

Here is the pads. I had a heck of a time getting close ups, so this is the best I could do. The square pads fel off the board (I still have them)

Image
Dave
91 GMC Syclone - PG Ti 500.4AL, Boston Acoustic Z6, Exile XT10
12 Legacy - Stock
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Eric D
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Post by Eric D »

You will need to tin the area on the other side of the pad, tin the lead on the cap, and apply some paste flux to the areas. Then insert the cap, and apply heat to the lead. With some luck the solder will flow on the underside, and fix the cap in there.
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