help with tantrum 1200.1

[daguy80]

I have a tantrum 1200.1 and there are some things that I would like to know. As far as I know the amp still works. There is output and the led lights up
when powered. The only thing is that it is not making that much power, im
guessing maybe 300 to 400 watts only. This amp is rated at 1200 watts at 4 ohms
usually makes around 1500 watts at 14.4 volts. One other thing is that when I
tried to turn the gain up it would make this real bad crackling noise. I would
like to know what is wrong with it if you guys know or is it fine because like i
said above, it still works in all just not how I would expect it to work. One
other thing, since this is a class "t" amp I thought it would run cool like
other class "d" amps that I have owned before but this amp runs really hot.
Sometimes I feel even hotter than some class "ab" amps. The fan is always on
and I'm not sure if it was made that way or there is something wrong. I always
thought the fan would only turn on when the temperature gets too hot but it
turns on right when the amp turns on. Well just want to see what you guys think
and if you guys can help me out.

[Mastiff]

I have a tantrum 1200.1 and there are some things that I would like to know.
As far as I know the amp still works.
There is output and the led lights up when powered.

The only thing is that it is not making that much power, I’m guessing maybe 300 to 400 watts only.

This amp is rated at 1200 watts at 4 ohms usually makes around 1500 watts at 14.4 volts.

One other thing is that when I tried to turn the gain up it would make this real bad crackling noise.
I would like to know what is wrong with it if you guys know or is it fine because like I said above, it still works in all just not how I would expect it to work.
One other thing, since this is a class "t" amp I thought it would run cool like
other class "d" amps that I have owned before but this amp runs really hot.

Sometimes I feel even hotter than some class "a/b" amps. The fan is always on
and I'm not sure if it was made that way or there is something wrong.
I always thought the fan would only turn on when the temperature gets too hot but it turns on right when the amp turns on. Well just want to see what you guys think
and if you guys can help me out.

Ok now thats better...we can read it now.


What is the size of your power & ground wires?

Have you looked at the RCA cables?

Have you looked into the quality of your sorce unit signal ?

Do you have the amp stuffed in a confined space?

Have you set your gains properly?

[daguy80]

Sorry about the above. I have 4 gauge power and ground cable. I have checked the rca's they both are ok. I had a different amp on the same setup that was perfectly fine. The head unit is not the best but like I said above the other amp was fine with it. I just set the gains by ears but a 1200 watt amp should make way more power then my 400 watt amp before it starts to clip. The tantrum amp makes this crackling noise if i turn the gain a little higher. The amp is not confined in a tight space. I also want to know if the fan on the tantrum amps are always on or if they only turn on when it is too hot.

[VW337]

To my knowledge the fan always runs.

Look on the bottom side of the amp, there you will see a sticker which says "VOID if REMOVED" is this sticker intact?

What is the DC voltage at the amp?

Do you get the crackling when you adjust the gain both up and down or just down? What about when adjusting the crossover?

There is a detented dial with LP HP BY over it what position is it in? Does the crackling still happen when in the BY position?




..............hopefully we find something in the above questioning otherwise you have a paper weight since last option is the Tri-Path chip has been pwned.



I love the T1200.1's and I would love to have another if they could still be repaired.................

[daguy80]

The dc voltage is between 13.5 to 12.3 when running the amp. The void stickers are still there under the amp. I tried turning the dial to by mode but it is still the same. I thought that these amps could still be fixed since phoenix gold still has a flat rate price to fix them on their site.

[1moreamp]

I think he meant for you to read the DC voltage at the output of the amp with no signal applied and the amp turned on, But he could have meant the 12 volt power also. as that puppy draws some current.

What are you running with it ? speakers and load ??

[VW337]

The dc voltage is between 13.5 to 12.3 when running the amp. The void stickers are still there under the amp. I tried turning the dial to by mode but it is still the same. I thought that these amps could still be fixed since phoenix gold still has a flat rate price to fix them on their site.

Walk to the the car with a Voltage meter and actually read the value for me do not give me a range. Yes test the power input terminals at the amp and also test the power terminals on the battery. This means I need two values not a guessed range. If these values differ by 0.2 volts between the battery and the amp, it can lead to further problems, please do not just guess. I/we can not help without the correct info.


In regard to the Void sticker are you referring to the one on the edge(s) or the one near the middle of the base looking as if it were randomly placed there? The random one is the one which really concerns me. Check it for a puncture.


The amps can be fixed, but the most common cause of failure is the tri-path chip in one fashion or another. Symptoms include but are not limited to: static, low volume levels, or dead silence. If this chip fails the amp is a paper weight unless you can salvage a chip elsewhere. Reason being is that the company which makes the chip decided to re-invent the wheel so to say, then discontinued making the chip which PG used and offered an "upgraded" version which has built in heat sinking features and add to that a few minor drive circuit changes makes them quite an impossible fit in your amp. In short dead chip = dead amp.