Q&A for me

[soundbit]

That is just a 20amp 110volt plug. As long as you have 12 gauge wire to you electrical box then you can just change the wall outlet to a 20amp outlet and your at good to go.

[dvnt88]

Grrrr, I just went to try out the power supply and to my surprise the plug won't fit the wall receptical. What did you do with yours? Did you run into this issue?

Mine actually came with the extension to fit a standard 3 prong socket. Don't know if they ship it with the extension or not as I got mine barely used and as I said, it came with the correct extension.

[Drock]

I have a question that maybe someone can help with, I am going to run multiple batteries in the back for the amps. Every amp will be wired with zero gauge wire. But what I'm not sure of is running power from the alternator to the batteries. Do I need just one run? Or more than one run?
Here's basically what I was thinking of doing. Under the hood I currently have a 130 amp alt. there is the deep cycle starting battery and a second deep cycle battery. I've done the big three upgrade already. I am running a single 0/1ga cable to a ti power distro from the second battery under the hood to the rear cab under the seat. About 15' long. I am running two ti800.1's and two ti500.4's at the moment with very stable voltage.
But, I want to change out the ti amps and try out the new elite amps.
I'm debating a couple scenarios.
A) I change out the 130amp alt for the 250 amp alt I picked up awhile ago and just add two more batteries so there is one battery for each amp.
B) find a mounting kit for both alternators, keep the 130 on the two batteries under the hood. And use the 250 amp alt just for the amp batteries. Again do I have one cable from the alt to the batteries or do I need a run from the alt to each battery?
Or am I making this more complicated than it needs to be?


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[Kirghiz]

I'm certainly no expert, but I would think running separate 0 Ga. wires from the alternator would result in better power flow. Whether you need to do that or not, I have no idea, but I would think it would be better. Same reason you do the big 3. Bigger pipes, better current flow as it were.

If you are running a pair of 800.1's and a pair of 500.4's off of a 130 amp alternator with no issue, then I would think you could just switch it out for the 250 amp alternator and run 1 Elite.1 and pair of Elite.4's if that's the direction you're going with the amp set up. I use that as a comparable because that Elite set up would more or less be double what you have now, and of course the 250 amp alternator would be about double the alternator you have currently too. I would also expect that the new amps would be at least slightly more efficient fwiw. Should work out good I would think.

[Stryker]

250 amp alt.
one run 0ga to distro, 4ga to amps from distro
you'll be fine

possibly might want to run a 0ga ground back to the alt. I did this and worked great.
it does add $ for the extra wire....

[Drock]

250 amp alt.
one run 0ga to distro, 4ga to amps from distro
you'll be fine

possibly might want to run a 0ga ground back to the alt. I did this and worked great.
it does add $ for the extra wire....

Not a problem, I have lots of wire. Thanks for the tips.
By the way, in going to red deer on sun to get the dd sub re done. New dust cap and surround, so it's good as new.

[ROBSCUSTOMSAPK]

I was just reading thru your thread. I would run a 0ga from the 250a alt to each battery, then run 0ga from your second battery back to your rear seat either to your powercore or extra batts in the back. Also, I am not a fan at all of isolators. I understand the benefits of them but limiting voltage is a downfall imo. I've seen pg isolators limit voltage to 12.5 while input was 14.2, that's almost 2v. If you must, use your solenoid. But make sure to anl fuse your 0ga within 18" of the batteries, and if you do decide to install extra batts in the back, make sure to fuse your power lead coming from the front at the rear batts as well. Ti800.1 is a a/b amp right? I would think the new elite.1 would be much more efficient. How do you like those dd subs? Ever used incriminator?

[Drock]

Thanks for the advice Rob. So if I understand you correctly. I should run two 0ga cables, one to each batt under the hood, and fuse each cable a foot or so before the batteries. Then run a single 0ga run to the two batteries in the rear. again fusing 12' before the batts. then to the power core then to the amps.
I am sticking with the solonoid. And yes the ti800 is class a/b. i absolutely love this amp but i'm anxious to try the elite.1. And like you said i'm more effeiciant with the digital amp and I can get the same power out of one amp than four ti800.1s. As for the DD subs, I have not had a chance to try them yet. They are monsters. I hooked them up in the garage just to see how they sounded but the enclosure they are in is built well, but the ports are way to small. There was so much port noise that I shut them down right away. I'm still not sure ill use them or not. They have to much travel to mount under the seat, I can fit four ti10d's no problem, which is still crazy loud. But i can't fit two DD12's unless I put them in some kind of a blow through from box to cab. the ti10d's are the only good sub i've owned in 12 years or so. I've actually never owned a 12" sub.

[vladthebad]

Something to mention... Make sure you fuse that 0 gauge power wire from alt to battery. ANY big power wire MUST be fused. Any small power wire SHOULD be fused... Somewhere. It's not as critical as a big wire, but even 12 or 14 gauge if unfused and shorted to ground equals big problems. Don't ever over fuse either. No 60 amp fuse on longish 14 gauge, etc... A fuse you can't pop doesn't count as a fuse really. I'd rather blow a few fuses a year than blow an amp, a battery, or burn the car down...

[Drock]

I think I am going to attempt a drawing of what I'm thinking for the electrical system. ill post it then you guys can let me know if there is anything to improve or change.

[ROBSCUSTOMSAPK]

Sounds like you've got it under control. Is your truck xcab or quad?

[Drock]

Xcab.

[Drock]

I finally had time to build an enclosure for one of four Digital Designs 3512 subwoofers. As I have said in earlier posts, I have never had a 12inch sub. So I am quite amazed at how much output this thing has compared to two ti10d subs. I did a test run today with both setups. I also used the bass cube and the same ti800.1 for power. The dd sub in the recommended enclosure listed on the dd web site is very loud. But I`m still not happy. both boxes are ported. they sound very clear but also very boomy. I`m looking for something that hits harder. i`m more interested in being able to feel the bass rather than hear it a mile away. i think i heard someone say it is not recommended to put the dd subs in a sealed enclosure. but i really want to feel these dd subs slam. is there anyone that can design a box that might work better. The current box size is 2.5cuft. I will swap the ti800.1 for the elite.1 in the morning. I'm sure that will make a difference. Even at 800rms the dd is still still hungry for more power. It will go from 800rms to 2000rms when I change the amps.

[Drock]

I need help figuring out how much power I need. If I have a speaker (ti6m) and spec sheet says its 300 rms and 4 ohm. I read that it is recommended that you should use an amp with 50% more power.
This being said, if I were to say run three ti6m in my door and I have 1 ohm load. How much power do I need to run this way?
The elite.4 is 300rms x4 at 1 ohm
Or 500rms x2 bridged stereo at 4 ohm
I have the elite.2 but its less power

[Drock]

No replies? Must mean either no one can give me an answer or my question is so stupid I'm the only one that doesn't know. Lol

[ttocs]

50% more power then its max or rms rating? not sure I have heard either of these myself...

Are you bridging the three speakers to one channel or running them in stereo mode? Are the tweeters pushed off of this amp as well? Are you using the passive cross-overs that eat up power as well? We need to know how you are hooking it all up before we can even begin to answer it.

[kg1961]

you will be fine . i heard tom set up with only 75 watts rms to them and they were nice clean and loud. just runn all 3 at 1ohm and enjoy them

[Drock]

Question Isn't about how it's hooked up, it's just a general rule of thumb. If I have a speaker that is 300rms how much power do i need to run that speaker. Or even better if I have two speakers hooked together, how much power would I need. Assume speakers are 4 ohm and in series. So total load on amp is 2 ohm.

[kg1961]

tom had the 6.5 " if the power is clean most company have ratting like 50-300 rms but clean unclipped power, your will be doing that just make sure when you adjusting you amp so it will blend with the sub.
your amp will power 3 sets if you need that much

[Drock]

There must be some basic math on this.
I'm more than sure It will sound great. I'm just curious how the math works.also there is always concerns with overpowering or under powering the speakers. Again just stuff I've read.

[stipud]

300w is totally overkill for the Elite speakers if you ask me. Most if the power is just bled by the flashing crossover lights at that point, and you will hit Xmax with anything other than high dynamic range music. 200w is probably the most i'd run to them, if you want them to last. And individually, without the component crossover, they would need even less power... you could probably easily drive them to Xmax on 100-150w.

There is no concern with underpowering as long as you aren't clipping them. It's simply an absurd notion, because you are underpowering them constantly, unless you always listen to test tones at 100% volume.

[Drock]

Thanks Tom, that's helpfull. As far as under or over powering goes I was thinking more about the effect on the amp.

[dvnt88]

Hey bud - If ur referring to the old Elite (Morel) ....150wrms per side is plenty as the rating is 300 peak (Musical) , so any where between 150 - 200wrms should keep'em bumpin' pretty good . Just be careful with the TI tweets ...they're pretty fragile and the TI x-overs don't provide tweeter protection from what I remember, could be wrong, but don't think so.

[Kirghiz]

The new Elite comps were made to run off the Elite.4, and they, and that amp are rated at 150 watts, but the birth certificate for that amp is going to say at least 175 or 180 watts per channel. If you keep it under 200 watts you should be fine.

[kg1961]

The new Elite comps were made to run off the Elite.4, and they, and that amp are rated at 150 watts, but the birth certificate for that amp is going to say at least 175 or 180 watts per channel. If you keep it under 200 watts you should be fine.

Drock has the old style morel pg mid tweeter