Acquired a few goodies, got few questions, need suggestions

[NotDeafYet]

So I scored some nice pieces... For wicked cheap money!! And no shipping either!!



1st part: What are the tricks and tips for a bottom plate for the MQ430? I has neither. If I get a piece of Plexiglas cut... How tricky is it to deal with the mounting corner screw holes? I know when one drills in Plexiglas, you want tape on it. Bevel the sharp edges to help cracking. What I'm concerned about is getting the holes in the exact spot.



2: Cleaning the MQ... I've googled it a bit.. Wondering what you all do to clean amps. I did the top sink and sides... Easy.. But a pain - that's a lot of fins! Cleaning the board mostly.. Air can.. Soft natural brush.. Contact cleaner(no residue, fast drying). The amp, let's say, has had a long holiday in a smoker's basement... For Y E A R S. It smells!







3: JL ZR650-csi's, got the set, minus the tweeters. Awesome cosmetics. Im looking for suggestions for a set of tweeters to install... Also wondering if I should keep those crossovers. They're nice. Bi-ampable! One still has the protective plastic on it. I'm going to be using an Audison Bit One, so I have no need for them in my install. Either sell, or stash.





The cherry on top of this lot, was getting those quadralink QLX cables within 4 Mins of the seller posting them! I couldn't put a value on them, was wondering what they are worth... Not looking to sell, but to know. Sure solves my buying or making my own RCAs dilemma.. At least for the ones from the HU to the gear area. One set seems newer than the other, and looks almost new vs the other set.



Got all these goodies from 3 different sellers. T'was a good day yesterday

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[knightrider358]

U can get matching zr tweets bnib on ebay...jl....other sites. I have a set myself...they are awesome comps, i had mine xovered at 50hz @ 6db slope on a ms2125....jus mids alone in sealed doors. Mid bass is awesome!!!! They are german made actually not usa. Oilworker heard them and will tell ya how nice they sound.

The tweets are a lil bright but tune them down and uae the passive to also turn them down, they sound awesome on-axis hint hint. I had mine on a ms275.

[trickyricky]

You lucky bastard...that MQ430 is nice.

[RayBuck]

I agree with tricky....you are a lucky bastard I have been looking for a white 430

[NotDeafYet]

U can get matching zr tweets bnib on ebay...jl....other sites. I have a set myself...they are awesome comps, i had mine xovered at 50hz @ 6db slope on a ms2125....jus mids alone in sealed doors. Mid bass is awesome!!!! They are german made actually not usa. Oilworker heard them and will tell ya how nice they sound.

The tweets are a lil bright but tune them down and uae the passive to also turn them down, they sound awesome on-axis hint hint. I had mine on a ms275.

I'm acquiring an MS2125 tomorrow morning.. lol. The matching tweeters, they're the ZR100CT ones, right? I saw those.. I'm just not sure what I am really looking for in a tweeter to be honest. I haven't had a "real" stereo setup in over 20 years - had a nice Alpine component setup back then. I recently saw these Superman OZ tweeters - what are they all about? Hype or real?

As for powering the components.. I'm still not sure what I will use. In the past 4 months, I've bought(amplifier wise):

1 x RSD500.4
1 x Saphhire 1.5x
1 x Saphhire 1.0x
3 x M50s
2 x M44s
1 x M100
1 x Route 66
1 x MPS2240
1 x MS2125
1 x MQ430

The current plan I'm leaning towards is the R66 for the front, M25 / tweeters, M44 bridged / mids, and the M100 for the 1 sub. The rest is just getting hoarded and shelved like the bunch of ya's are doing LOL!

[NotDeafYet]

You lucky bastard...that MQ430 is nice.

Thanks.. I was a good score. Daily shopping and scouring. Finally pays off now and then.

I still want to know the better, proper way, to clean it. Reading whatever from the net is one thing, but there's a few of you here that I value their opinions. Besides.. I'm trying to stick to the PG family.. after all, it's all I use to run 20 years ago, and going to run again! Well.. MOSTLY PG , at least in the power dept. And I need a bottom plate/plexi figured out.

[knightrider358]

U can get matching zr tweets bnib on ebay...jl....other sites. I have a set myself...they are awesome comps, i had mine xovered at 50hz @ 6db slope on a ms2125....jus mids alone in sealed doors. Mid bass is awesome!!!! They are german made actually not usa. Oilworker heard them and will tell ya how nice they sound.

The tweets are a lil bright but tune them down and uae the passive to also turn them down, they sound awesome on-axis hint hint. I had mine on a ms275.

I'm acquiring an MS2125 tomorrow morning.. lol. The matching tweeters, they're the ZR100CT ones, right? I saw those.. I'm just not sure what I am really looking for in a tweeter to be honest. I haven't had a "real" stereo setup in over 20 years - had a nice Alpine component setup back then. I recently saw these Superman OZ tweeters - what are they all about? Hype or real?

As for powering the components.. I'm still not sure what I will use. In the past 4 months, I've bought(amplifier wise):

1 x RSD500.4
1 x Saphhire 1.5x
1 x Saphhire 1.0x
3 x M50s
2 x M44s
1 x M100
1 x Route 66
1 x MPS2240
1 x MS2125
1 x MQ430

The current plan I'm leaning towards is the R66 for the front, M25 / tweeters, M44 bridged / mids, and the M100 for the 1 sub. The rest is just getting hoarded and shelved like the bunch of ya's are doing LOL!

Use the m100 either stereo on the passives in amp'd mode or the m100 and a m25 on bi-amp'd on the passives.

Honestly the m100 will be best on the comps. Get the zr tweets! As the will match w the zr passive best for the loading.

Use ur ms2125 on sub.

Plain and simple amps that will amaze u in sound w a dsp or hu internal processing.

[knightrider358]

Dont use the rt66 or m44

Believe me, use the m100 & m2125

[NotDeafYet]

If I said I was going to use an Audison Bit One, would that change your suggestion on amp choices? The Bit One wouldn't be "better" than using the passive crossovers on the front speakers? My choice in using the Audison, is for it's crossover capabilities, and time alignment feature.

Part of my choice in using the 2 M line amplifiers, is for the "look"... but I wouldn't be opposed to having the m100/ms2125 combo either. I'm only sporting an RF 8" sub - not going for SPL like in the old days. And I don't want to give up cargo space in the VW for subs. The 8" I have is tucked right in the rear driver's hatch compartment area in vehicle specific sub enclosure. Feeding it the bridged M100, on an 8ohm load, is perfect for the (250WRMS rated)sub. Again, looking for suggestions, and opinions!



I just might get those ZR tweeters.. every purchase I make lately though, the US exchange makes me CRINGE. I've been lucky in finding a lot of my recent purchases from Canadian sellers. I got a few months left before the build starts.

[knightrider358]

Ull get the same power from the 2125 as the m100.

Just trust me and try m100 on the front stage.....thats where they really shine. Along w the zr set loves power!

[oilworker]

Another tweeter to check out is the LPG 26NA. That is the same company that makes the drivers for the JL ZR components. YOu can get them from Madisound for like $45 each. They should go with the ZR mids well. Also one of my personal favorites is the Seas Prestige H1396. They are also around the same price. They are a soft dome tweeter compared to the aluminum dome LPG which is also what the ZR set came with. If you like soft domes better, go with the Seas.

[vwdude]

First off those RCAs are the best sold, ever. Lots of us fall over each other trying to buy a 5m set for $100. Enjoy those, and if you won't, post the, up for sale. I'm sure someone will gladly buy them.

Now, for the MQ-430... Use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser on the heat sink. It'll work wonders. You also want to have the amp recapped as it falls for the same issues as most other older PGs, leaky caps. If the stains don't come out of the heat sink then you can have it powder coated while its apart for caps. I've done this on many of my MS amps. Really freshens them up, just doesn't work on the end caps. The magic eraser works great on those but be weary,mill take off the silk screening if you rub too hard. Just be careful.

Now for the bottom, you can have a new one made from Steele and have it powder coated or make one from plexi. You'll need to drill small holes for the 4 mounts to the amp, plus drill 4 large holes to allow screws through to mount the amp. For plexi it's easy, you can see rough it. If you do Steele then I'd recommend taking measurements.

[NotDeafYet]

I know I lucked on on the RCAs. The kicker tho is this: the seller didn't realize that he had 2 sets in the pile.. as I unravel them to scan them, he's like:"hey, there's 2 sets in there?!?". "Yup, it's what was in your ad picture.". I paid 50$ CDN for them. 4.5meters each. Sick. I know. And I got his ad 4mins after he posted.. driving on the hwy.. called him.. wtf? I just hit send he said. So 100$ for each set is a going rate for them being sold used? NICE.



The outside of the MQ is all clean, that's the easy part. And I was nice around the silk screening parts.. it's the actual board I wanted to inquire about. I figure Ill use an air can, soft natural brush of sorts, no static, and then soak it over a bucket with an electronics type cleaner. I had to buy some to fix an issue with my signal stalk lever in my car, and a lube.. I made kinda sure that both cans, I can use on my amps.. so the store said you're ok. Juts looking/asking to see what you all do. That MQ stinks.. and I'm a smoker!!!

As for the bottom plate.. I gathered that'd be the case. I just want to make sure the holes are spot on, or the screws get stressed and cross threading might happen. Maybe I'm overthinking it.. maybe not. I'll give the plexi a shot first. I can buy a precisely cut piece for it, spot on, for no extra charge and then I'll drill the sucker.. see what happens. Cheap enough to buy to screw up a few lol. Maybe I'll practice on it, and make a few more for the MPS and MS that I have.

Thanks for the advise and comments.. always welcomed, and I appreciate any of you all's input! I don't participate in any other forums. I just soak elsewhere, and try to participate here.

[ttocs]

First off those RCAs are the best sold, ever. Lots of us fall over each other trying to buy a 5m set for $100. Enjoy those, and if you won't, post the, up for sale. I'm sure someone will gladly buy them.

Now, for the MQ-430... Use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser on the heat sink. It'll work wonders. You also want to have the amp recapped as it falls for the same issues as most other older PGs, leaky caps. If the stains don't come out of the heat sink then you can have it powder coated while its apart for caps. I've done this on many of my MS amps. Really freshens them up, just doesn't work on the end caps. The magic eraser works great on those but be weary,mill take off the silk screening if you rub too hard. Just be careful.

Now for the bottom, you can have a new one made from Steele and have it powder coated or make one from plexi. You'll need to drill small holes for the 4 mounts to the amp, plus drill 4 large holes to allow screws through to mount the amp. For plexi it's easy, you can see rough it. If you do Steele then I'd recommend taking measurements.

great wire none-the-less although I would argue that the best pg ever made was the 9mm super triple shielded wire complete with silver ends. I don't have a pic on hand but can get you one to show and you would understand. They are mono cables that are 9mm each cable so you need two for a stereo signal. I have seen this cable get as much as $20/ft and the silver ends $20-30 each, when you can find it....

For bonus points on the amp don't forget to throw a strip of leds in it for night time viewing pleasure.

[NotDeafYet]

Lol. No LEDs. All components are going to be out of sight, out of mind. No freaking thieves are getting their mitts on my stash. Not going for looks or show. Goes with the rest of the car - total sleeper. Cops leave me alone, it's great.

[ttocs]

at the point its not going to be seen, why plexi?

[NotDeafYet]

Cost? It would be easier for me to acquire a precise cut plexi sheet for the bottom of it. I'd just need to drill the holes and dremel the notches for the mounting screws. Sheet metal wouldn't be as easy for me to do.. that's all. Just want to button it up. The amp has been open, in that smoke filled house for a long time.. and I didn't even ask if he had it right side up, or down... the whole decade.

[ttocs]

would you do a metal bottom if one was available? I have a 430 bottom plate.

[NotDeafYet]

White? Ad decent or better than my MQ? If so, pm me details.. I'm from Canada so the $ exchange automatically sucks.

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[ttocs]

grey actually. But Krylon psss psss make it yours Its in good shape but yea its a metal bottom from a 430 be happy to send your way.

[NotDeafYet]

Would repainting that be sinful? Should it be powder coated, or plain old paint? The wife is pretty amazing at painting stuff... lord knows she's repainted half my shiat since we've been together! Black pretty much hehehe..

What's a bottom plate worth?

How do you guys get spare parts like this? It seems odd.. it's like an amp went to heaven and got stripped.. just like a winter car after it's done it's purpose! (rip my 03 Jetta from 2014-2015 winter season).

[NotDeafYet]

Another tweeter to check out is the LPG 26NA. That is the same company that makes the drivers for the JL ZR components. YOu can get them from Madisound for like $45 each. They should go with the ZR mids well. Also one of my personal favorites is the Seas Prestige H1396. They are also around the same price. They are a soft dome tweeter compared to the aluminum dome LPG which is also what the ZR set came with. If you like soft domes better, go with the Seas.

Ok, so I landed a score.. got a 6 pack of ZR tweeters(Seller didn't want to sell just one pair...I'll be selling a pair or two..)! Now I pretty much got everything for my install.. short of ho-hum parts to get(speaker wires, dynamat-ish stuff and mdf speaker rings).

So back to the amp choice selection.. was suggested/told use the MS2125 on the 250wrms 8in sub@8ohms, M100 on the ZRs. But since I will run an Audison Bit One, I will not use the passive ZR crossovers. Still need to pick an amp for the tweeters.. would an M50 be too much for the tweets? If so, I still got that MQ430 and an MPS2240... someone mentioned an M25 for the tweets. Don't have one by itself, short of the one in the Route 66 I got. Also have M44, Sapphire 1.0x on hand too.

Alternatively, I could run 3xM50s for the front... would be nice with the M100 on the sub. Not opposed to mix/matching the M/MS/MPS lines, as they won't bee seen/showed off in the install.

I just need to make up my mind, as the amp choice will dictate which amps I get recapped to use. Only have 1 M50 that's been recapped.

[knightrider358]

Use the m100 on zr mids, m25 on tweets, and ms2125 on subs.

You wont go wrong w how itll sound.

[NotDeafYet]

I don't have an M25. They don't come up very often around the used market. I totally missed out on that one auction on Ebay for a BNIB one with a mint paired on to it. Auction didn't sell first crack at 250us.. second crack, it swelled to $520US - I was MAD.

What's comparable to the M25 in my stash?

[knightrider358]

I don't have an M25. They don't come up very often around the used market. I totally missed out on that one auction on Ebay for a BNIB one with a mint paired on to it. Auction didn't sell first crack at 250us.. second crack, it swelled to $520US - I was MAD.

What's comparable to the M25 in my stash?

Try the mps2240 should be enough power for them.

So mps2240 on tweets, m100 on mids, and ms2125 on subs.

Use the passives bi amped mode. This will allow u to use the xovers settings as intended from jl as i did but also u can ta the tweets and mids seperatley and use an adjustable active xover too set ur hp filter on the mids.

I had mine set at 50hz @ 12db slope and the mids didnt bottom out.