Working with silver solder on newer amps

[Txsaxkat]

Ok a while back I repaired my zapco 1000.4 and the silver solder was a PITA . Now I am doing my Xtant 1000.1 that a cap started to pop on and it alsp has silver solder . I have a Hiyua 862BD and it has been pretty good for a cheaper station had to solder in a new tip after a year or so.

I pulled one of the via's out on the first cap . Was heating it up with the heat gun some and then use the soldering iron. Cant seem to get the wick to work not enough volume of heat it seems. I had the same issue with the zapco but the board seemed to be a little more robust and able to handle the heat. Seem the solder suction pump is best . Looking for insight/help please.

[ttocs]

it is a personal preference of course but I always liked the solder suckers more than the solder braid myself. The type I am talking about is a soldering iron that has the sucker build into it so you just put it over the pin with the sucker pushed in, count to 5 and then let it suck.

[megawatt]

I have also run into that type of solder but mine was in a smaller switch mode power supply, had a heck of a time with it, I also tried soldering a silver phono cable and that has a similar problem as well, it absorbs the heat so fast and dissipates it you need an extreme amount of heat on the connections. I am checking with one of my suppliers on this problem (Circuit Medic) and see what they have or what they recommend as it is becoming more commonly used. Presently I use a Hakko FR300 vacuum de-soldering unit and normally it works great but requires a lot of cleaning to keep working great.

[Txsaxkat]

Thanks did the normal thru hole repairs and all is good got the amp up and running all new caps. It's a Xtant 1000.1 D super clean. Had it in my old 94 bmw 525 touring with 2 old school eclipse 8810's it was one of the tightest cleanest sub systems I have ever heard.