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 Post subject: SecondSkin SPL tiles
PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:18 am 
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Specification
Adhesive = Viscoelastic butyl rubber - 99.94% solids content
Weight = .79 lbs per sq. foot
Foil thickness = 10 mils (10/1000")
Total thickness = 80 mils (80/1000" - 2mm)
Sheet Size = 6" x 10" (.41 sq. ft. ea.)


I have used Dynamat as well as Dynamat extreme. This time I decided to see if I would notice a difference between Dynamat and SecondSkin.

I went with the thickest product secondskin has to offer. I can say the aluminum foil is thick and will cut you if you get to zealous with it.

Cutting to size is harder due to all that metal you have to go thru. Other then that it went on like Dynamat. I use a roller from a place like home depot. It takes more elbow to get it pressed out.

Easy to apply, doesnt stink, and I could not tell a difference in vibration control between the two products. I have seen a number of home doers testing of the products. I have to say that in real world either product is going to live up to its application. Right tool for the right job.

I am going to be using Dynaliner between the door cards and the doors. Makes for a nice clean professional install. Plus I like it being self adhesive so I dont have to mess with glues.

Anyway thats my take on it. I have used both products and I think for what these are actually designed for, you are going to get the same results. Neither products are designed to be noise blockers.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:52 pm 
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I don't think any of second skin products are any better than fatmat or dynamat extreme and SS is a lot more money not worth it IMHO even their "B" stock blems stuff is overpriced.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:05 am 

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I might be able to gather up some Roadkill extreme samples for you guys to check out. Basically in the early 2000's we went to the manufacturer in the US of Dmat and told them we wanted the same thing. Needless to say when your compnay only sells dampening material you have to do things to cut costs (going offshore) to boast a profit. We still have the same stuff that Dmat was made famous for and would like some of yous guys to try it out and see what you think...


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:43 am 
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I would love to try some out even if its just enough to do my 4 doors and headliner and I am willing to pay for a discounted price thats no problem.



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 4:32 pm 
No, you're a towel.
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Sign me up. Im about to buy some bulk deadener for my two vehicles. :D



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 4:58 pm 
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I need some right now!!!!! And a new Ti12d2...... :pray:


I'm getting ready to do the doors on my Mustang and would love to try it. Ofcoarse doing a before and after video would only be right.... Along with pix of the whole installation process aswell........ Should I talk to J. Fornos about that Zak..........He's a friend of mine. 8)

Maybe we can work on that deal we was talking about...... :mrgreen:



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 5:31 pm 
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Sign me up, I'd put it to good use.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:25 pm 
Briaans..... BRIAAAAANNNNNNS
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i would be up for some!



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 7:02 pm 

Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:03 pm
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Location: Michigan
Same here, could use some sound deadening.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 7:03 pm 
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Location: Cornwall Ontario
I'm going to need some soon to do my car how much $ that stuff go for ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 7:19 pm 
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I used the fatmat this last time....I have to give it props

went on easy..cut easy...was was very noticable with the noise...


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 12:34 am 
"Loogie"
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AAMP217 wrote:
I might be able to gather up some Roadkill extreme samples for you guys to check out. Basically in the early 2000's we went to the manufacturer in the US of Dmat and told them we wanted the same thing. Needless to say when your compnay only sells dampening material you have to do things to cut costs (going offshore) to boast a profit. We still have the same stuff that Dmat was made famous for and would like some of yous guys to try it out and see what you think...


I am down to try some as well! So add me to the "list" please :) Thanks for the offer bro!



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 12:48 am 
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need some for the doors too, as well as the barn doors on the Patrol



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 Post subject: Re: SecondSkin SPL tiles
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 1:42 am 

Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:58 pm
Posts: 4
[quote="Altered States"]Specification
Adhesive = Viscoelastic butyl rubber - 99.94% solids content
Weight = .79 lbs per sq. foot
Foil thickness = 10 mils (10/1000")
Total thickness = 80 mils (80/1000" - 2mm)
Sheet Size = 6" x 10" (.41 sq. ft. ea.)


I have used Dynamat as well as Dynamat extreme. This time I decided to see if I would notice a difference between Dynamat and SecondSkin.

I went with the thickest product secondskin has to offer. I can say the aluminum foil is thick and will cut you if you get to zealous with it.

Cutting to size is harder due to all that metal you have to go thru. Other then that it went on like Dynamat. I use a roller from a place like home depot. It takes more elbow to get it pressed out.

Easy to apply, doesnt stink, and I could not tell a difference in vibration control between the two products. I have seen a number of home doers testing of the products. I have to say that in real world either product is going to live up to its application. Right tool for the right job.

I am going to be using Dynaliner between the door cards and the doors. Makes for a nice clean professional install. Plus I like it being self adhesive so I dont have to mess with glues.

Anyway thats my take on it. I have used both products and I think for what these are actually designed for, you are going to get the same results. Neither products are designed to be noise blockers.[/qu

For starters, Second Skin's Damplifier Pro foil thickness is only 4mils and not 10mils. So, foil thickness is the exact same as Dynamat Extreme. Although, the SS Pro's overall thickness is 80mils to DE's 65mils.[/b] SS Pro's weight w/o release paper is 0.49lbs ft^2 to DE's 0.50 lbs ft^2. If you ask me, it sounds like they're the damn near the exact same when it comes to adding mass to eliminate panel vibration. The proper term is CLD tiles and not SPl tiles!!!
Like I just mentioned, the hole purpose of CLD tiles are to add mass. We're looking to add mass= weight, not thickness. Which in theory, adding CDL tiles will act the same as touching a ringing tuning fork, to quiet it.
So in saying that, it has absolutely nothing to do with sound proofing or making your ride a quite one. You're only estimating rattles using this. For sound proofing purposes, it's like trying to have a bowl of cereal, when you only have the milk. You're still going to need a bowl, spoon, and the cereal.
Not to pat myself on the back, or think I'm special, but when it comes to sound deadening, I know my $h!t and the cheapest places to find it. I'm not in the business, so do not have any alterior motives or hidden agendas to try and sell you anything or make a cent. The only thing I care about is getting the truth out. I'm trying to open peoples' eyes to the reality of this situation and help them aviod the ignorant majority out there (who believe every word they read and/or become parrets, only to repeat everything they've heard [without doing research to substantiate as fact]. If anybody wants to learn how to get the same results and save yourselves money in the process, to add to you're system, then let me know and I'll open your eyes to the the truth. Example: CLD tiles were invented for use in the construction industry, specifically HVAC. Not for cars, as the companies would like you to think. The wheel was reinvent here, just repackaged, branded and doubled in price .


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 1:51 am 

Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:58 pm
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gridracer wrote:
I don't think any of second skin products are any better than fatmat or dynamat extreme and SS is a lot more money not worth it IMHO even their "B" stock blems stuff is overpriced.


Look at the prices of their "B" stock, and then look at the prices of their normal stock. They are exactly the same price! Pretty funny, huh!!!!!!! Not very many people catch that, because they're preying the ignorant. Also, it's kind of funny how they've never ran out of their "B" stock. :liar:


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 Post subject: Re: SecondSkin SPL tiles
PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 8:57 am
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Location: Midwest
Quote:
Not to pat myself on the back, or think I'm special, but when it comes to sound deadening, I know my $h!t and the cheapest places to find it. I'm not in the business, so do not have any alterior motives or hidden agendas to try and sell you anything or make a cent. The only thing I care about is getting the truth out. I'm trying to open peoples' eyes to the reality of this situation and help them aviod the ignorant majority out there (who believe every word they read and/or become parrets, only to repeat everything they've heard [without doing research to substantiate as fact]. If anybody wants to learn how to get the same results and save yourselves money in the process, to add to you're system, then let me know and I'll open your eyes to the the truth. Example: CLD tiles were invented for use in the construction industry, specifically HVAC. Not for cars, as the companies would like you to think. The wheel was reinvent here, just repackaged, branded and doubled in price .


Where can one find/purchase the construction industry product?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 11:37 am 
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Location: SW Washington
if we're just talking about adding mass... why wouldnt something like "snow roof" or whatever its called - the stuff you "paint" on the roof of motorhomes - do essentially the exact same thing?

I havent ever taken the time to even look at a can of the snow roof stuff, so I have no idea what it is, looks like, smells like, etc... but in the commercials it LOOKS like its a thick rubbery goo...

at any rate, the stuff that was/is designed for homes typically has a really high asphalt content (from what I have personally seen - peel & stick for example) and have only seen a couple/few that didnt have the asphalt, and those didnt have a foil back (protecto-wrap). So I am curious what products are out there that the DIY community has somehow missed... either because we havent been thinking far enough outside the box or ???

Personally, I like the idea of a paint-on sound deadener and had great results (on accident) when I herculined the entire inside of my 1972 blazer after painting the whole thing in POR-15.



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 12:55 pm 
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alot of the construction grade stuff is asphalt based and will not only smell but release a small amount of carcinogens. I prefer the quality of the second skin product and do not hesitate to use it when it comes time. I am about to make an order in the next month or so.

I was suprised this weekend to see that there are number of spray-deadoners at pep-boys that are rubber-based and got one to check out. I am about to do a second coat now but so far it seems like pretty good stuff at a resonable price($5 a rattle can). Anyone else used anything like this? Reminds me of a spray on bed liner.



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 1:20 pm 
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I really don't remember the name on the can.
It was one of auto-zone's store brand.
I used it to coat the hard to reach spots that were impossible to do with a roller.
It took several coats to get the desired thickness.

Actually worked pretty good.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 12:35 am 
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So I installed the Second Skin SPL tiles. Now this is some think stuff. Thick aluminum and adhesive. It went on like dynamat extreme with a little more elbow effort. Sticks as expected. I sprayed over the tiles in the truck and they look stock and gave the rear 1/4's and truck hood a nice thunk sound. Easy to apply in the doors.

I applied some in the hood to test how well it would do in that environment. I used a solvent to remove all the grease and oils. Ruffed the areas up... used another solvent to remove anything left over until the rags came back clean.
Now I can say that I have seen a few home doers tests and it seemed second skin performed the best. Well not in this case. The tiles fell off. And it wasnt because of any oil on the surface. I was able to use some 3M adhesive spray for a foam liner and it stuck find and is still latched onto the hood. Everything above the engine was gone and those tiles near the exhaust were toast.

Road nose was not any different then Dynamat Extreme. People can debate this all day long but at the end of the day I am certain a human ear is not going to be able to tell the difference. As long as the product stays put and is used as designed then prices isnt really an issue.


Now for the DYNALINER :)
AWESOME Product. After the doors were complete I cut and installed the dynaliner. Very very professional looking and went on the door easy. After the adhesive settled (like in a minute) that stuff was not coming off. This stuff is something I would highly recommend to clean up the doors prior to replacing the door cards. One roll did both my front doors and I have enough to maybe get another rear door done.

sorry didnt take any picks.



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