It is currently Thu Nov 23, 2017 9:26 pm

All times are UTC - 8 hours




 Page 3 of 3 [ 60 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: Leaking capacitor tutorial update
PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 12:01 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2014 11:23 am
Posts: 437
Location: Norway.Karmøy
trickyricky wrote:
Perhaps not....I've notice that the HF caps (with the silver stripe on the negative side...NOT GOLD) with a date code of "97FH" did not leak. I replace them in three zxti amps and all with the same date code did not leak. Not if you want to be on the safe side then replace them and you won't have to worry about them, always a good idea to do so.



I got 39FH and two off them where leaking that was on zx600ti, on the zx400ti it had 99F3 one off them had some leaking just a few drops.



_________________
zpa0.5(V210245)
zpa0.3(00618)
zx600ti x2
600titanium
zx400ti
sd500.4
XSC5 x2
pld1
sdt-ti
tba
bass cube
tld66
Offline
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Leaking capacitor tutorial update
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:40 am 

Joined: Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:31 am
Posts: 1
Hello,

I have an old m50 13456. I gave the amp to my brother not knowing about the cap issue. he plugged it in to use it to smell burning. I opened it up to notice that the 3 larger caps on the top right of the amp the bottom one had sparked. Picture is below.

I have some solder experience with my RC cars but no electronic repair experience. I would like to however, try and replace these if the board isn't ruined.

My questions are are these the same caps that are in your tutorial that I would buy from digikey?

The image maybe doesn't give you all you need i am not sure but can i clean up those char marks and if so what is the process of determining if it is unrepairable?

Thanks for the tutorial and assistance. I hope I can make this thing work.


Attachments:
1002150834-sm.jpg
1002150834-sm.jpg [ 158.83 KiB | Viewed 1848 times ]
Offline
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Leaking capacitor tutorial update
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:21 pm 

Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 8:01 am
Posts: 1647
It's repairable as long as you have at least one good set of cap pads and no damage to traces. You might not even have board damage, use 99% isopropyl alcohol.


Offline
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Leaking capacitor tutorial update
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 4:47 am 

Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2016 2:24 pm
Posts: 109
Earlier in the thread the question was asked if this problem affected the Sapphire line and I never seen it answered. Can someone please clarify. I took it to a local shop and they did not really want to replace the caps and told me that at this point there were no signs of leakage and it would be a waste of cash. So now I am hunting someone else to do the recapping but was curious if it would be safe to actually run this until I found someone.


Offline
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Leaking capacitor tutorial update
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 4:51 pm 

Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 8:01 am
Posts: 1647
Stravus wrote:
Earlier in the thread the question was asked if this problem affected the Sapphire line and I never seen it answered. Can someone please clarify. I took it to a local shop and they did not really want to replace the caps and told me that at this point there were no signs of leakage and it would be a waste of cash. So now I am hunting someone else to do the recapping but was curious if it would be safe to actually run this until I found someone.



Yes the Sapphires also have the same leaky caps...if they are dark blue with a gold or silver negative stripe and have "HF", "HFZ" or "HFQ" on them then they need to be replaced. I notice leakage on my 3.0X.


Offline
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Leaking capacitor tutorial update
PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2016 4:45 pm 

Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2016 2:24 pm
Posts: 109
I need some advice on a ZX250 is it easier to replace the caps on the slave board by removing the heatsink or by desoldering the slave board from the main pcb.


Offline
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Leaking capacitor tutorial update
PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2016 7:10 pm 

Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 8:01 am
Posts: 1647
I would remove the rail cap board if I were to replace the rail caps. Careful not to damage the traces and via holes.


Offline
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Leaking capacitor tutorial update
PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 6:32 am 

Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2016 2:24 pm
Posts: 109
The rail caps the tops are bulged so I think they need to be replaced soon. Just not sure if I want to try that or let someone else do it.


Offline
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Leaking capacitor tutorial update
PostPosted: Fri Jun 16, 2017 3:23 pm 

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:08 am
Posts: 3
Hello all. New to the forum and intending to re-cap some PG amps. Two M50's and one ZPA 0.5. All purchased new by me a long long time ago but not used much. The ZPA 0.5 has actually never been powered up... Too late now for warranty claims if it does not work I guess :lol:

No matter, I'll replace the caps and give the boards a look over before connecting power. A special thanks to Eric D, this guide is exactly what I need :thumbs:


Now to the actual question. I see that Nichion UHE series is commonly used in recapping these amps, but I've decided to try the new Nichion UHW type caps. Both ESR and Ripple current looks better then UHE (and Panasonic FC).

So for the M50's I am getting UHW1C682MHD.

And for the ZPA UHW1C822MHD.

Does this look like reasonable capacitor choices, and have anyone used the UHW series Nichions in a re-cap?

EDIT: I have received the caps from mouser and re-capped one of the M50's. Fitting four UHW1C682MHD standing up was no problem height wise so I did that. The most tricky part of the operation was extracting the old cut-off cap legs from below (according to this tutorial). They were cut very close to the board and I had trouble gripping them, next time I'll leave a little more sticking up on the top-side and grab them from there.


Offline
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Leaking capacitor tutorial update
PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 3:27 am 
Short Bus Driver
User avatar

Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:50 am
Posts: 4221
About 13 years ago I did my first cap replacement job on a ZX250v2 I found to be leaking. The originals in it were Nichicon, so I replaced them with the same series Nichicon at that time. The only difference was I went with the larger value so the height would be the same as the originals (as cap technology had improved and the original value was then much shorter). My primary concern was the look of the amp, not the performance of the caps. In this application any cap performance improvement would not be noticeable.

I ordered extras with my original Digikey purchase, and these ended up in the next cap job I did. I then bought more and continued to use them. This is the reason I have stuck with those same caps all these years. Instead of stocking different brands and versions, I just stick with the same one.

So long as the replacement cap physically fits, can tolerate reasonable heat, and is 16V or greater, I cannot see any problem with it.



_________________
Got "schooled" by member shawn k on May 10th, 2011...
No longer really "in tune" with the audio industry, and probably have not been for some time.
Hands down the forum's most ignorant member...
Don't even know what Ohm's law is...
Offline
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
 Page 3 of 3 [ 60 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3

All times are UTC - 8 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

cron