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 Post subject: Re: momstang rebuild begins.
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 1:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2018 1:01 pm
Posts: 7
It's cool brother.

If side exhaust is your thing, that's sweet and to each their own. Only issue I've had with side exhaust is they usually rob some horse power. I see that you are going forced inducted which will make the side exhaust more of an issue since the higher cylinder pressures will want more air flow, thus making the side exhaust an even greater restriction. IF you have access to a dyno, I would try some straight thru muffs vs that side exhaust and it may very well surprise you.

For me, I run dumped exhaust, just past the muffler. 8)

Cheers.


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 Post subject: Re: momstang rebuild begins.
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 2:29 pm 
the Floor Sweeping Hack with Golden Ears

Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:53 pm
Posts: 14285
I am not out for pure performance as it still has a catted(high flow) x on it. I will take it to a track but just for fun. I also have some cutouts that are installed between the entrance and exit of the muffers so it bypasses the muffler but still uses the same tip.



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 Post subject: Re: momstang rebuild begins.
PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 7:56 am 
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ttocs wrote:
I also have some cutouts that are installed between the entrance and exit of the muffers so it bypasses the muffler but still uses the same tip.


That's what I'm talking about right there!!! :clap: 8) :P


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 Post subject: Re: momstang rebuild begins.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 5:25 pm 
the Floor Sweeping Hack with Golden Ears

Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:53 pm
Posts: 14285
gosh I can't believe how long since I updated this. Been chasing some gremlins as as well as its just been a bad winter/spring for my stomach stuff. On top of that dad just had his hip replaced and I have been taking care of him, but I have got a lot done.

It started with a small fuel leak. Just a small puddle forming on the lower intake that I traced down to be the stock fuel rail. One of the few stock parts still in the car that I had no plans to replace asap since they were good to 450 hp or so but the time came. Swapping to an aftermarket rail was harder then I thought because the FPR is mounted on the stock rail but all the aftermarket kits have it external. The regulator is not that big until you need to get a hose on both sides and the bottom, and have access to the top to make adjustments. I found some space for it between the wheel well and the firewall.
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The other problem with the aftermarket kits was the feed line was split and then ran into the back of the rails, and there was no room for a splitter. So after some time and thought the splitter went down under the car.
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Running along the stock lines rout put it closer to the exhaust then I liked but running it down the side meant the side exhaust tips would be resting on the hose. So I went the stock rout and got some heat shielding and put it on the hoses. All the stock mounts were used and I also cut some 1" strips of aluminum and covered them with marine grade clear shrink wrap. After some holes were drilled in it a rivit holds it in place to help if any of the stock mounts fail.
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around the tank I went with hose isolaters where I could not get mounts because I need these hoses to move when the tank drops.
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I decided to go with an external pump so that I would not have to drop the tank again. I used this Granateli pick up
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Holley fuel pump that should be good to 600 hp and the filters. I made this plate for it all to mount to that will go up under the bumper/diffusor.
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I could not help but spice up the plate a bit even though no one will see it so I painted it to match the red stripes on the diffusor.
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The fuel system is ready to be preasurized now and I am going to to that in the morning and check for leaks. I have also been working on some power gremlins that have had me thinking. When I installed my batteries they were not next to each other so I had to balance the rules of "Keep the ground close to the battery" and "ground both batteries at the exact same place". I ended up keeping them short and because of this they were a few feet away from each other. I decided to put them all together but I did not have a flat enough spot where I wanted to put it so I cut out this pieces of 1/8" steel and drilled and tapped the holes for some studs in it so the blocks have enough flat room.
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after that I spot welded the studs to the metal and ground them down flat
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Then the all 4 sides of the piece was welded down next to the battery to make a flat spot that I can cover with panels later but keep easy and solid ground access. The 3rd one goes to my ground dist block for the system that is just on the other side of the back seat.
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I also added the remote charging lugs because the PG dude in my has always cried a little when I hooked any large charging leads to my perty perty pg terminals. I also added the 2 pin harness in the middle to allow for easy connection of my Dual pro AGM charger. Eventually I plan on moving the whole thing back 3-4 inches and have it covered yet accessible.
I also added bluetooth battery monitors on the lugs. When my phone gets close it can send a notice of the batteries status's.
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I also made some changes to my vac lines, hopefully all of this will mean it can finally run....



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 Post subject: Re: momstang rebuild begins.
PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2018 1:01 pm 
the Floor Sweeping Hack with Golden Ears

Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:53 pm
Posts: 14285
it been down now for nearly 6 yrs. Nice to hear it fire for the first time even though it is still rough. I only ran it for a short time because the AFR was off the charts. Looking at the data now it was making the adjustments necessary to bring it down, oil pressure looks good, fuel pressure needs a slight bump and the idle down a bit but I am too busy watching the gauges to do the adjustments and my wrenching buddy is busy today.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyIi3fR3v6k



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