The ADCOMs really are amazing. But, a little under-powered. That is why I started bridging them in pairs. And I honestly have not found anything better than a bridged pair of 4402s. That includes some really well regarded amps. Like: BRAX X2000 (more power than I knew what to do with. just a little ...

Eric, I think the 555 is good. Not great. It is an old amp now. I think it was new in 1990 or 91 (I did not buy it new). I feel ADCOM's mobile amps sound magnitudes better than their home stuff. My first piece of ADCOM home gear was a GTP-400 pre-amp. I thought it was phenomenal. I had an old ACURUS...

I agree that the copper-plate would be drop dead gorgeous!
You would definitely need to clear-coat it though. Or, it would corrode. And it would not take long at all.

I have a TON of real world experience running bridged amps as a stereo pair. I have done it with: ADCOM 4402s, and 4302s SoundStream D200s, D100s, REF300s, and ClassA 3.0s LUNAR 50x2s And even the very amps you mention! As a matter of fact! There is a pair of M50s bridged in my shop right now runnin...

OHH-SNAP!! I am in for one long section! PM inbound.....

So, I had time to strip the second M25 tonight. Got the rail caps out of this one, also with no damage: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/wheelieking71/get-attachment8_zpsebcf63a5.jpg Not sure if the residue was from leaking electrolyte, or residue left from the factory solder job? I actually h...

Amazing condition! Interesting to see the different configurations between them. The different wiring layout, buss bar spacing, rca location and empty led holes to name a few. Are they different revisions? LL LOL, when I first saw that second picture, I thought that those two LED holes were empty a...

Yea, if it weren't for the witness-marks on the terminal screws, and the fact that they had obviously been out of the boxes before (not original box stuffers :( but the serial numbers match the boxes) I would have guessed them to be new! You guys would sheet if I told how much I paid :twisted: Lets ...

I need to quit while I am ahead!!! My last few (major) amp purchases have been in stellar condition. This pair of 2125's is freakin mint!!! I could not find one single nick in the finish, or anything. :metal: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/wheelieking71/get-attachment21_zpsd663f675.jpg http:...

aaand.......what have we here?



All I can say is: "craigslist rules!"

I don't have time to open and inspect right now (at work), but I will have some tasty pics later! From what I saw, they are mint!

These are the full-range drivers I am thinking of running: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-6-fullrange/fostex-ff165wk-6.5-full-range/ They should be capable of filling a 1500sq-ft shop with sound. Or maybe I will splurge, and pick up a pair of the TangBands I have been drooling over for ...

on the M50 board, while you're busy, don't forget to replace those 2 330 ohm resistors with a 5w model and half an inch away from the board... you find one of them just in the middle of both railcaps, the second one below the right railcap surrounded by some little caps............ don't forget to ...

M50 board didn't fair so well at the hot resistors :( . There will be some hard-wiring going on when it goes back together. top side looks "okay": http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/wheelieking71/resistorstopside_zpscca78d7d.jpg Everything is starting to lift, and the heat the board ha...

And the M25 rail-caps out with no board casualties! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/wheelieking71/railcapsouttop_zps24e0fb6b.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/wheelieking71/railcapsoutbottom_zpsbbb61810.jpg I know they probably didn't need to come out. But, I am a glutton for punishm...

Caps stripped from one M50: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/wheelieking71/capsstripped_zps8f8d1752.jpg And the results of just yanking the input-caps from the M25 board behind it. Much easier that way!!!!!!! Must have had some cold solder joints as 3 out of 4 leads came right out of the board...

Thanks guys! That all helps. Eric, thanks for the link, very cool! So far the only source i can find for the chipped Toshiba 2SC3281 transistor is to buy used ones off ebay. Is that a safe buy? And, will this work for the IRFZ: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/International-Rectifier/IRFZ48NPBF/...

Yea, I just stripped the input, and rail caps out of that M50 (sorry Eric, I know you hate when the rail caps come out LOL).
I only lost 3 solder pads, and 0 VIAs!

Not bad for a complete rookie

Thanks guys! That all helps. Eric, thanks for the link, very cool! So far the only source i can find for the chipped Toshiba 2SC3281 transistor is to buy used ones off ebay. Is that a safe buy? And, will this work for the IRFZ: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/International-Rectifier/IRFZ48NPBF/?...

Wasn't exactly sure where to put this, since its technically not going to be car-audio. But, it seems like as good a place as any. A little preface about the project: I want a rockin' system in my shop! LOL! Since I am somewhat of a 12v amp junkie, and I have a fairly robust power-supply (ASTRON RS7...

I picked up a pristine pair of ZX beauties the other day. They could both pass for new!



I think these might make it into the wife's Camaro system.

the hole looks pretty round also. i know, i know, holes are round. what i mean, is that when drilling holes in thin sheetmetal, you usually end up with a bit of a triangle hole. that looks awfull round, and the anodizing around the hole isn't tore up from chips whirling either. interesting.

GOT IT! thanks itchner!

does anybody have a copy of it?

very awsome amps! D200 is my all-time second favorite. they sound fantastic.

i like the way i could use them for jackstands! tough as nails.