there are some red inductors in that amp that i've heard can come loose causing oscillation like this; check those

if that tr7 is what i think it is you're wasting your money on it. as i said earlier the 360 can be configured to have a remote turn on lead OUT instead of IN. you have to pop it open and change a jumper. once that is set when the 360 senses signal on the inputs it will trigger all the remote stuff ...

Also the 360 can be configured to turn on the amps w its remote lead used as an output (see the manual on setting the jumper settings)

have you tried turning the gain down on the amps and turning the level in the 360 up? a lot of ppl i've seen complaining about noise on the 360 have their gains turned waaaaaaaaaay up and the levels in the 360 turned way down. if you have the input on the 360 setup right (correct level set via the i...

all the mpsa06 & 56 transistors were replaced.

i tested each old one as i pulled it out and found no faults but one is obviously bad

Well I put the original IRF540 mosfets back and replaced the pnp and npn transistors on that channel (mpsa06 and mpsa56). I've been running the amp for about an hour and all seems fine; the 60hz is gone and the general noise level out of both channels seems lower but that may just be placebo lol... ...

theres nothing wronf with the power supply

well I got all the parts in from digi-key today first thing I did is replace the MOSFETs i just ran the amp for about 15min until my power supply turned off (thermal protection). I scratched my head a bit let it cool and hooked up my DMM to read amps; apparently now with the 2 new Internatonal Recti...

i have plenty of solder experience lol; been soldering since i was about 10 and have done a bunch of SMD. I do EFI tuning and mod a LOT of honda ECUs anyway im tearing out all the transistors in that channel here in a bit and will try to test them out; seems theres only 3 types of transistor on that...

you think testing them individually like that would show the problem?

this amp works fine most of the time.... only sometimes does it crack out...


guess i'll start desoldering :p

good thing i'm handy with an iron and spring loaded solder sucker

its not hard to find the right rear channel and all associated hw its just i dont know how to trace the signal back from the biggest pair of transistors for that channel (the ones mounted to the heatsync). since i know its not them thats bad (input pin on that transistor gets teh same weird signal a...

how might i find a leaky transistor? anyone have schematics?

also i just tried reading the dc offset on that channel......... well it starts out at about 8mv according to my DMM then steadily climbs; i stoped at about 30mv; the amp was only on for maybe a minute (fets are out in the open no heatsync so i'm afraid to runit very long)... is that normal? rear le...

no biggie; i posted the thread late last night and it was copy/pasted pretty much with horrible typing (posted some from my phone on the other board) so i'm sure this post is a little clearer and less 13yo girlish

I posted this last night but i guess the forum software upgrade ate it lol. Anywise here is my dilemma: I have a phoenix gold XS4600 4ch amp that 3 of the four channels work perfectly. On the right rear channel randomly it stops playing music and starts popping loudly like its sending DC/Rail voltag...