I have an Outlaw, but am too lazy to disassemble this thing if someone has the answer. I am looking for the voltage and diameter (in mm) of the rail capacitors.

I am guessing 50V, and 35mm, but would like conformation of this.

Home Audio Hobby, 1995 age 14 Car Audio Hobby, 1996 age 15 Car Audio Installation (For The Sound Buggy), 1997 age 16 Car/Home Audio Manufacturing (For Rockford Corporation), 2001 age 20 Ended Everything Other Than As A Hobby, 2003 age 22 I am proud of the fact I never started out in audio “ghetto” s...

Remove the BYW29 and run a diode check on it with a DMM. That would be a good start I would think.

The features you are listing would require some amount of proprietary hardware to perform well. Using a good ole sound card and some major math functions can only get you so far. Keep in mind your argument here, and don’t loose site of it. You are promoting the use of complex processors and systems ...

The systems I worked with at Rockford are as follows… AudioPrecision System One Linear X LMS Linear X pcRTA Linear X LEAP4-5 Linear X Filtershop Goldline TEF20 Siasoft SMARRT The systems I personally own are as follows… Linear X LMS Linear X RTAjr AudioControl SA-3055 RTA TrueRTA Now, with all this ...

This argument is also a mater of intelligence. Not mine or yours, but society in general. When I was in school, no one wanted to take any analog circuits classes. Everyone flocked to the digital circuits classes. After all, digital is the way of the future, right? Well, I opted to take some analog c...

I considered my system to be an all out setup. Money was no object, only performance, so what more defines an “all out setup”?

Just so everyone knows, the only reason I am going into such detail is I am disputing your original comment… passive BLOWS IMO Which even though it is your opinion, and technically I have no ability to dispute it, I just find the word “BLOWS” to be so far out of line as far as describing passive cro...

Running active is throwing away headroom. Use the case of a 4-channel amplifier. Say it is 75W x 4. You run two channels to the tweeters, and two to the mids. You have a 75W system, nothing more. Now take that 4-channal amp and bridge it. Now you have 300W a channel into a set of components which is...

As far as rear fill is concerned, I have to totally agree with bdubs on this one. I have been preaching the removal of rear fill in car audio for years now. Every time I go to a concert, no matter how hard I try to turn my head, I am compelled to look at the stage. So, the sound is in front of me, a...

Those are very good points, but the problem these days is the lack of flexibility with active crossovers. Other than crossover point, they offer little adjustment. If a component set is properly designed in the first place, it will work well in the majority of vehicles and any additional tuning can ...

The majority of the top home audio speakers in the world use passive components. The benefit of active setups is marginal at best for car audio, other then for use with low frequency filters where the component sizes are simply to large and expensive to be practical. Bi-amping is a useful practice, ...

Ditch the EPX if you can. Having worked for Rockford, I now the details on that unit’s long and spotted past. The EPX, and EPX2 hold the Rockford corporate record for lowest reliability and lowest quality. I ran one in my car for a week before I became totally sick of it and scrapped the idea. Turn ...

I know for certain if I had those amps and it were me, I would be running the M100 side to what ever subs I were using, and I would take the M50 side and bridge it into the front right passive component set, with the Bandit running the front left passive component set. No rear fill or active crossov...

Sounds good to me. Where do you want me to send what I have so far?

Can someone with a mint M50 please scan the front cover for me? I am looking to get the cover redone on my M50, and I need the original artwork. Mine is way too far gone to retrieve a good image from.

I don’t know if my rates are all that fair. What I do know is I am extremely anal and go the extra mile to make everything as good as I can get it (unless someone needs an amp fixed and can only afford $20, in that case I scrounge to reuse thermal paste off it).

Well, actually I don’t know what I paid for it, as I did not pay for it! I discussed ordering a raw MS1000 heatsink, with LeggoMyEggo, and he wanted one himself, so he ordered two and had them sent to me. A white one, and a grey one. The grey one turned out to be nickel. I would prefer to have the w...

That amp is quite good cosmetically, IMO, but the electrical is indeed shoddy work to say the least. I especially like the carved up FETs to get the screws around them. I have links to the power input caps I use in my capacitor replacement tutorial. I can probably dig up the invoices from when I fix...

I ordered a grey MS1000 heatsink for a project I am working on. Well, Phil and I have a totally different concept of what grey is. In the mail I got a nickel plated original MS1000 heatsink!

As far as home amps go, there is not a whole lot of heatsink there. But, that is probably a Class A/B amp, not Class A, so I suppose it would not need all that much.

Their amps look 100% not special at all. The boards are a singled sided Chinese or Korean design. The Sanken outputs are a nice touch, but it seems all the Chinese amps these days are going that route.

What ever you do, you do not want to install these amps prior to resolving this. They don’t die from abuse, they die from age. After all the effort put into your install, it would be very sad to see the amps die and take something else out. Besides, if they did die, you would likely hate PG after th...

This amp looked fine on the top… http://www.soundbuggy.com/Eric/Car%20Audio/leaking_capacitor_tutorial/m100_capacitors.jpg But when removed, you can clearly see it was leaking… http://www.soundbuggy.com/Eric/Car%20Audio/leaking_capacitor_tutorial/step_8.jpg It is just a matter of time until these ca...

Did you remove the capacitors and check for leaks? The only way to tell is to desolder them and look under each one.

Based on the age of yours, I would guess there is a 75% chance they need to be replaced.