I could be wrong on these points so if anyone knows otherwise, please chime in... -35mm high caps on an MS amp will rub on the plexi window, causing damage too it over time. -The MS2250 does not use sil-pads, and instead relies on its anodizing for insulation. I have seen PG repaired MS2250s having ...

If those caps have 2,200uF printed on the side of them they ARE CERTAINLY bad. Once you connect 12V to the amp, it will catch on fire at a random time. The stereo does not have to be on for it to catch on fire, it just needs 12V connected to it for the caps to start breaking down internally. We are ...

kg1961 wrote:Look 100% real to me

I agree.

I thought the original Ti stuff was no longer made by 2005. Around that time, Xenon became the flagship product line.

Your amp is just an older version. The first ones had a solid back panel, then PG added fans to help cool them some on the newer versions.

I highly doubt your amp is actually a fake.

I converted an MS2250TA into a "normal", or "original" MS2250. Doing so took rewinding the transformers, and changing about 30 pieces. I investigated going from a MS2125 to MS2250 at that time, and there are about 100 parts that need to be changed. It is really beyond being cost ...

I thought that IC was responsible for the LPL control. I could be wrong though, it has been a long time since I worked with an AX204.

Bchester6 wrote:

Eric D wrote:Just make a 0.25 cuft MDF box (based on external dimensions, not internal), and glue it inside the fiberglass enclosure.

That did the trick. Thanks Eric.

Without photos it never happened...

Just make a 0.25 cuft MDF box (based on external dimensions, not internal), and glue it inside the fiberglass enclosure.

If I am understanding you correctly, yes, it seems like the stereo/bridge switch is to blame.

There are a few components though, between the RCA input jack, and the stereo/bridge switch. One of them could be bad, causing the problem when in stereo mode.

I currently have a Yamaha RX-A3000, and have been pretty impressed with it. I may upgrade to the RX-A3050 if I change to an atmos setup.

The Soundstream Class A Picasso is the best sounding car audio amplifier I have ever heard. Not much for power though.

So, anyone from PG ever check in here anymore?

Honestly, I had a hard time determining the difference between the RF ix amp, and the PG. The ix amps really do sound good. Now, there is one important difference though. Headroom... Even though RF amps (the old ones at least) were underrated, PG amps of this vintage are VERY underrated. I once had ...

In my documented A-B comparison, I used a PG ZX500, and an RF 250.2. The results caused me to do further A-B testing in the months to follow, but I never documented it like I did that first example. I A-B tested that same 250.2 with a Punch 60ix. That is when I concluded the ix series were superior....

How much lower? What happens if you swap the RCA wires from left to right? Does the same channel stay low in volume?

There is no trim for this, and the gain pot itself may be to blame, or other problems in the amp may be occurring.

I wrote this many years ago... http://www.soundbuggy.com/Eric/Car%20Audio/RF_vs_PG/index.html It may be an interesting read for some. Of all the RF amps I have owned, the ix (and DSM) series sounded the best. Nearly as good as PG and other great sounding brands. If you study the circuits of older RF...

I wonder if a lot of the stashed old school equipment collections will be nose diving in value? If there are not enough people into it and no demand, then it might be a daft place to keep loads of money. Not that we do it for investment! Nostalgia rules. However, I can see loads of stuff hitting eb...

I used to be more active here with things like amp repairs, and amp reviews. PG also used to have at least a few employees frequent the forum to keep everyone informed. There also used to be several members here who always had wild and crazy projects going on. Some more extreme installations, and so...

If you remove the FETs, you can power on the amplifier, and measure the pins on the board where the FETs go, which connect to those resistors. With an o-scope you should see a square wave signal, with a DMM you should measure maybe 6V DC, and around 6V AC as well. The frequency is probably 30kHz. If...

The caps I circled in RED are what need to be replaced...

I am 98.5% certain they are bad.

I only replace them if they tear or de-laminate when I remove the devices.

That mod is a pretty cool idea, but would not be audible.

And with that in mind, it makes little sense to me to increase the heat output, for no gain in performance.

-Remove any bad parts first
-Clean the board as best as you can
-Take photos of the area
-Cut out the bad part
-Make a patch using raw copper clad pcb, and the photos you took

If you don't know where some traces went, others on this forum, may have amps they can help you get information from.