Hold on man... figure out what this tapping is first! Are you sure you're not clipping? Is your signal feed good? Take the sub out of the box and play it free air (at a slightly lower volume) and see if you can figure out what's causing the noise.

Rexarmy wrote:I would have gotten some pics of all that but did not know if you guys would have been interested?

Uh heck yes.... we're all car lovers too

I've gotten in the middle of enough internal flamewars, and have lost enough friends from it. With a ton of projects at work and a kid on the way, I just don't have the time anymore, to be honest. I'd rather you debated car audio/hobby topics, but I also realize that tensions rise. Hell, venting can...

Stock wiring usually has a fusible link for the alternator, so if upgrading the wire, it should be fused IMO. My last alt burned up really bad without a fuse... I'm glad it didn't ignite anything else in the engine bay!

Looks sweet! I was gonna say, "You don't see those in Canada!", but then I noticed your plates and the storage crate, eh!

In the future, home stereo equipment works just fine.

Holy dickballs... for $80 thats a steal. They even have the brittle foam trim attached! The left one looks slightly scuffed on the dustcap but the right one looks great. You'll want to hook them up to power to make sure they aren't blown of course.

Hmmm... to me "in your face" sound is what you want, unless I am not understanding properly. My guess is you find the drivers side tweeter less harsh like this because it is mounted some 60 degrees or so off axis, which would roll off the top end significantly (of course you will get some ...

Looks good but um... shouldn't the tweets be at the bottom, so that you have much less path length difference between left and right?

I take it you tried every possible mounting location with double sided tape before making irreversible modifications to your vehicle?

The usual issue on Xenon amps is cold solder... the first-batch manufacturing quality wasn't great. After awhile, PG started reflowing all of their boards, and there were way less issues. Unfortunately with cold solder issues, it's a complete pain in the ass to figure out where the actual broken con...

Generally speaking I have to trust the manufacturers specs, if published. Sometimes when doing woofer tests, DIYMA also posts their own measured T/S params.

That $99 woofer tester seems too good to be true though! I've never seen that before!

The tightest setup I ever owned was a ported pair of Xmax 10's, tuned to 30Hz. Same exact box on my (original) Ti10's was absolutely terrible... sloppy, slow, etc. BassBox showed a massive difference in group delay, so that's what I attributed it to. The Ti's on the other hand sounded fantastic seal...

Well this thread is going... good... ...:shock: Scott, if you please... I don't think Eric needs you to back him up on everything. Unless you have something relevant to the topic to add, beyond arguing semantics (i.e. "you said this, I said that"), please refrain from posting. We really do...

Greets!

Did you notice the new ownership and new amps?

Extra long 3D filmed Metallica video set... they'd have to pay me more than $5 to go

Well you could always try hooking up power to see what they do

I don't think those are stock man... odds are someone installed some lights in there or something?? All the lights work properly. So does the amp. It even looks pretty freakin good. I guess Im gonna have to open it up and look. I actually have it in the car right now though.... They are pg wires th...

I don't think those are stock man... odds are someone installed some lights in there or something??

Herro!

Sounds meaaaan Joerg!!!

Sweet car, sweet install, and an amazing choice in test tracks! Welcome!!!!

I personally wouldn't bother welding them... just remove the endplates, mount them together, and install a one-piece plexi across both. If you are desperate for a full size sink, check the buy/sell area as they have been floating around for a bit. Similarly people are trying to remake them right now...

PG does not release schematics i'm afraid. If you need a repair, I recommend Altser

valeks1 wrote:It's normal. PG used switching RCA jack on rear. When you connect RCA cable to the rear RCA jack, middle pin will disconnect front source from rear channels.

Wow, that's pretty sweet! I wonder why nobody else does that...

Seems like slot ports would be easier to me, but it's a neat idea.