I've finished with the meat and potatoes of the amp rack and just need to finish my trim piece to cover all of the wiring. I was going to leave it as is, but feudie1's install encouraged me to go a bit farther. Mine won't be nearly as nice as his, but similar in concept. I also changed my mind about...

You got lucky to find a place to pass through. My 16 F-250 Diesel has no place. Also for anyone with one of these trucks DO NOT unplug or bump to hard the module in the middle on the floor, it can cause codes. To clear them you will be paying the dealer. I can only imagine what the 250 diesel looks...

Thanks B!

I have a Xenon 100.2 coming, but I want to start my amp tack this weekend and want to be sure of the physical length of the amp. My X200.4 states it is 22" long in the manual, but measures nearly 24", so I don't trust the manual 100%. If anyone has one laying around I would appreciate a to...

I finished with the power wiring under the hood today. There's not much to see there that hasn't already been seen/done, so I'll spare the pictures unless someone really wants to see it. I did finally install the Pioneer DEX-P99RS in my custom dash mount. I think it turned out pretty good. The facto...

Yes, it is a bit unnerving to tear into a new vehicle, but the benefits are definitely worth it aren't they? I agree that the majority of blocking unwanted noise from the exterior of the vehicle is accomplished with CCF/MLV. Covering the floor contributed to a significant reduction in noise, but cov...

I have the drivers door yet to do, but all of the pieces are cut and ready for it. Doing the first door, rear and front takes the most time to make templates for the MLV, but once you get a template you can trace it and use it for the other door since they are just mirror images of each other. I pla...

I also got some help installing from Spiderman! What kid doesn't want to install audio on spring break? :D As a side note, new vehicles SUCK to run wire through the firewall or doors. I FINALLY found a spot to run the 1/0 power wire through the firewall, but I had to drill a hole and install a gromm...

I finally started tackling the sound deadening/proofing project this week since I have the week off. Food poisoning, kids and other medical issues have slowed me down, but I've made good progress. I purchased CLD Tiles, CCF, velcro strips and vinyl contact cement from Don at https://www.sounddeadene...

Do NOT use "Y" cables. From your headunit, run a set of RCA's from the front outputs of the headunit to channels 1 & 2 of the amp. Run another set of RCA's from the subwoofer outputs of the headunit to channels 3 & 4 of your amp. Leave the rear outputs from your headunit disconnect...

I am so jealous of your trips and photography skills. That tent looks like it'd keep you high and dry.

I would consider two (2) 8" midbass drivers each side "serious" midbass. I know a lot of folks use pro audio drivers for midbass in a system with horns. I don't need anything like that and I don't want to fiberglass any enclosures or hack up my door panel in this install. I don't need...

No Roadster love?

freudie1 wrote:You need horns .

I have never heard an install with horns before. Don't you have to have some serious midbass to keep up?

That's pretty cool about Mishimoto. The CF diffuser fins look nice.

...and painted. I tried a wrinkle finish, but it didn't match the interior texture well so I went with a lighter textured finish instead.

ok so again we are talking damping material, "damp-en-ing" materials will require water and/or a hose. Yes this is all just technical talk but if you are going to talk the talk we need to do it correctly. Yes my car is nice and quiet now.... I also have a thermal barrier on my trans tunne...

MLV? Googled.. didn't answer my "what does it mean" question.. The road noise part would be nice, and appreciated.. but for the doors, I'm looking to avoid the rattling effect of things. I'm gonna use dash pods that I got off of Mike here. Tweets and 4inchers. And still gonna use the 6.5s...

MLV is a mass loaded vinyl, but NOT a closed cell foam. It is a vinyl sheet designed to create a barrier to reduce noise from crossing. It is commonly coupled with CCF or closed cell foam so that the heavy vinyl sheet is decoupled from an adjacent surface where it would vibrate and make noise. http:...

I've also begun work on the tweeter housings. They are made from 3" diameter wooden spheres that I cut and drilled to house the Scanspeak tweeters. They will be painted black and will be mounted using an articulating Ram mount to allow for adjustments later on.

The receiver housing is built from aluminum plate, ABS sheet and a modified universal single DIN mount kit and bolts in using the existing mounting locations for the tray that was removed. The color is a little off, but looks better in person.

I've finished fabricating my housing for the Pioneer P99. It will be located above the existing stereo, in place of a tray centered on top of the dash. It's a tad unorthodox, but I needed a location that is accessible and there are currently no dash kits available for my vehicle. I have not modified...

For amps like the MS series it's nice to cut out a piece of plywood just larger than the footprint of the amp and terminals and screw the amp to it. Then use normal packing items like air bags, foam, etc... It sucks to see the damage to such beautiful amps.

He bought my SD1300.5. Paid immediately and even covered the paypal fees which I wasn't expecting. Great guy!

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

This stuff is not cheap, but sometimes you get what you pay for. Don has done his homework and has tested other manufacturers products. I'm currently saving my coin to purchase enough to do my vehicle.