IRFP044 for the power supply fets
2SA1360 & 2SC3423 for the final output devices
MJE15031 & MJE15030 predriver (Q114,214,113,213)
2SC3423 (Q108, 208)


If you have a complete one then just use that one as reference for parts and locations.

Not to mention mica is pretty messy and doesn't look good for an amp such as an MS/MPS that shows it guts through a plexi.

I would prefer the aluminium push bars for the devices instead of the single screw for each device. I went to my local Ace hardware store and found that they had the 1/8" x 3/4" aluminium flat bar in 4ft lengths for around 5 bucks. All you need is appox 26" (two 8" and two 5"...

4180G Ceramic are a great choice and only 30 cents more than the silpads....

Jacampb2 is correct, the nickel plated has anodized aluminium thin insulators (thermal compound on underneath side and then between the device and anodized aluminium insulator). The Sapphire series use similar thermal insulators but I don't believe they can be used as they are different size and hav...

Am not an expert on metal finishes but do know that there are powder coat finish that can resemble chrome (mirror finish, will be twice as expensive as a regular off the shelf color). As for nickle plated transistor heat sink clamps, it doesn't matter if they are anodize, powder coated or nickle pla...

You can get a dc-dc step down converter that's 12.6v to 5v, since your looking at less than 1000mA you can get some tiny boards now a days for almost next to nothing. There are some on ebay for 5 bucks that handle 3a, for safety you could add a resistor inline to limit the current to the remote. You...

The transistor clamp/pressure screws are 4-40, don't know where to get gold plated. Second I wouldn't mess with the gold buss bars because they are not cloudy...they have a plastic film over them to protect them from accidental shorts. If you want them to shine just remove the plastic protective fil...

Am subscribed to his channel, very nice videos with great info.

Lol...well that's out of my league, I stick with a 3000watt sub and a 400watt amp and that's plenty loud for me. Crazy that the manufacture states it's recommended range is 25-3000 watts ( as if anything under 25 would harm the sub), it's a W10GTI MKII in case your wondering.

I will always send too much power to a sub rather then too little. Keep the signal clean and you have nothing to worry about. Am sure you mean having a 2kwatt amplifier to a 500watt sub is perfectly okay, which is true as long as you don't bottom out the coil (which by then your 2kwatt amplifier wi...

That is my experience too, distortion kill subwoofers, clean power dosen`t. Well if the distortion you're talking about is clipping then yes. 1% distortion or even 5% distortion is not going to hurt a subwoofer. And clean power can kill a sub, too much clean power will ALWAYS kill a sub that is rat...

Here's what they look like Scott, they look like little V-block engine and have small heat sink fins on them. You can definitely get these anodized as well and they look pretty rad if you ask me. http://www.soundbuggy.com/Eric/Car%20Audio/phoenix_gold/xenon/x100_2/overall_board.JPG Picture is not mi...

It be nice if the transistor clamps/bars have heat sinks like those used in the Xenon amps.

The power supply in the link you provided seems to have dual outputs (don't know if they are controlled together but isolated or parallel), it's a total of 160a at 12v but if it is indeed dual isolated outputs then you will have 80a on each side hence the 2x80a on the description of the product. I a...

Eric, aren't those power supplies LOUD and a bit inefficient compare to newer power supplies like APS power supplies? I say because I use have a 2/77 and that sucker was loud (hum) and not to mention was about 50lbs. I now use APS90's which are quiet (the only noise is the fan which kicks in once th...

Gold plating kits run about 60-100 bucks, don't know how much sq inches it will cover but it should easily do a bunch of terminal blocks.

No replacing the caps will not cause it to go into protect or blow fuses unless one or all are backwards.

He needs to monitor the current draw (obviously is not drawing any excessive current since it is not blowing up the 5 amp fuse) and the voltage (could be getting a voltage drop, so probe inside the amplifier directly onto the board as the terminal block screws may be loose on the nulling toroid side.

I wouldn't replace it if it's properly working, which am pretty sure it is. The transistors die is placed a bit below the center of the device case. So that chipped piece is no where near the die, therefore it shouldn't have any ill effects on the performance of the device. If you are worried regard...

Here's the batch I made. https://scontent-dft4-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/944324_930632713716909_5915063151638323835_n.jpg?oh=8b3be025d0bf7ad5a9a0e2e25cfd1440&oe=5867990B https://scontent-dft4-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/12705338_933759890070858_144796088343831946_n.jpg?oh=6a025707bd70a608d28ca08ee57a7...

Try using contact cleaner such as deoxit, spray it on the push/pull potentiometer (both the rear end and the front as the rear is the switch mechanism and the front is the potentiometer). Push/pull as well as rotating clockwise/counterclockwise about 20x once sprayed and see if that does the trick. ...

How is your remote going out exactly? Potentiometer worn out/scratchy? Perhaps broken solder joint on one of the pots?

Am down to get two sets re-done depending on price.

Trust me that resistor is fine, if you wish you can resolder the joint but may not be necessary. As for the suggested wire gauge you need to keep in mind that you are comparing apples to oranges, one is a class AB amplifier and the other is a class D (more efficient) they amplify the signal differen...