Phoenix Gold Phorum

I know it can be done, but I am curious if there is any special steps that need to be done? I would like to take the 1" flat strips I am using in my system and put a slight curve on the top of them, just enough to make them not flat really so just a small amount to give them some shape before I send them off for powder.. WD40 to help keep the bit cool or is there something different/better?

All the tips you'll EVER need are in this build

same thread but this forum link loads quicker and works.
http://www.fiberglassforums.com/showthread.php?t=11159

might be but I do not have permission to view it.

ttocs wrote:I know it can be done, but I am curious if there is any special steps that need to be done? I would like to take the 1" flat strips I am using in my system and put a slight curve on the top of them, just enough to make them not flat really so just a small amount to give them some shape before I send them off for powder.. WD40 to help keep the bit cool or is there something different/better?

try cutting oil...

WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement - 40th Attempt". Larsen was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion, by displacing the standing water that causes it. In the process, he arrived at a successful formula on his 40th attempt.[1] WD-40 is primarily composed of various hydrocarbons.

Just a tid-bit if anyone cares to know....

ttocs I posted a better link for you

still need to be member-
or at least i cant see either link posted

you may need a bit made just for aluminum if they even make one for a router but maybe you could use a router bit but if it was me i would at least make sure its made out of carbide. and then i would wear as much safety equipment as i could find i know its hot but i would wear some thick coveralls with sleaves googles or glasses and even a clear plastic safety mask and some leather gloves. because if the bit was to bind some very bad things can happen for cutting you may can use transmission fluid that's what i use for engine head porting it keeps my bits from clogging up.

Off topic, but i didn't knew about WD-40 thanks!

I know a number of people that have used wd40 for years as cutting oil, just never did it myself. Not sure where I would get cutting oil.

I always wear glasses and sleeves if I suspect something hot or sharp could get thrown up. From what I understand it is a soft enough metal that it is just about going slow.

I have also been dreaming of a custom grill for the 9s that would require some shaping with the router.

dude tranny fluild is your best bet with aluminum it has a better film strength than wd-40 but its not too thick like cutting oil and it provides better cooling for the bits.

first I heard of that. interesting

yea i use it on my carbide die grinder bits when i flow port heads it does three things first it lubes the aluminum or steel for smooth cutting then it cools the bit to keep it from breaking then it keeps the bit from clogging with aluminum.

With good carbide tungsten bits (I recommend Whiteside bits) you can cut any non-ferrous metal with a router. I only recommend it though if you are very experienced with a router inverted in a table as it can be extremely dangerous.

Like you said, slow the blade down and use some sort of lubricant. In addition, I recommend using large diameter fluted bits instead of spiral cut. That won't affect you on this project as most profile bits are dual-fluted, but something to keep in mind when looking at flush-trim bits (which will be your real workhorses for most jobs).

The metal you're working with concerns me in two ways. It's likely flexible enough that in order to get a good cut you'll be tempted to bring your hands far to close to the blade. DON'T!! You can use a router shield and some chunks of wood to apply pressure and keep your hands free from harm, but then you don't have a firm grasp on the material, which brings me to my next concern. Those long strips can quickly turn into a blade-like projectile if the bit bites into the material.

Given the safety issues, and expense involved in getting set up to do it properly, it may be worthwhile to consider contracting this work out to a professional.

I would be securing the pieces down with some good double stick tape to a piece of wood and then slowly pushing them through. I have done the same with plexi and had good luck with it and only really worked with a table myself. By going slowly I meant I would not be pushing them slowly rather then actually slowing the router down. I will not be taking much material off so I do not think it will be a problem.

I'd want to screw the pieces you're working on down (maybe hollow out a template?) hard. I do not trust tape for this kind of thing.

Bret

the key is to use alot of tape...... Been doing it for years on plexi, wood, almost anything really.

ttocs wrote: By going slowly I meant I would not be pushing them slowly rather then actually slowing the router down. I will not be taking much material off so I do not think it will be a problem.

Slow on both counts is highly recommended! Even when you're taking a small amount off it never hurts to stagger your template and make a few passes. Aluminum actually cuts very easily and it can seem deceivingly simple until the bit bites down ruins your day/week/month etc. Just be careful!