4Nines first car audio system and install (99' Denali)

Have a cool car stereo? Post your install pictures here! No PG? No problem! Competition grade or sub-in-box setups: ALL are welcome!
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4Nine
Posts: 108
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 5:58 pm
Location: Trinity,FL.

Post by 4Nine »

Bfowler wrote:dude, you should incorporate a hinge on the xenon rack, that way it can flip up and you can access the fuse block!
I'll see what I can do.

The fuse blocks are easily accessible right now but I like your idea.


More pics....Thumb screws in brackets..also going to switch out the 5/16 socket head screws that secure the amps to the bracket
to 5/16 thumb screws.
Image

It will be even easier to access the blocks once I switch to thumb screws for the amps.
Should have waited to paint the backets till I was done cause you can
see that they are getting chipped up. Oh well now I know.
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Jasons awesome acrylic work....cant wait to see this piece lit up.
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MX3i...The outside edges of the fabric have not been glued down yet thats why it looks wavey.
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Bass Cube...The black stuff is Honey comb mesh and yes the edges will be lit w/blue leds.
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And yes that is a oops in the acrylic.
Not sure if I will be using acrylic for the base on this level might go with
1/4" mdf and just use acrylic for the 4 amps.
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Using one of these in each corner to secure the access panel.....
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Mocked up without the top piece of the rack....
Image


Switched out the 1" L-brackets yesterday to 2" L-brackets makes a huge difference with stability. Will also be adding 2 more L-brackets to the
top piece of the rack and will be using more thumb screws here too.
Image
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4Nine
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Location: Trinity,FL.

Post by 4Nine »

paulmichelsen wrote:One thing to keep in mind (though I am sure you have thought of this) easy to remove for you=easy to remove for thieves. As shitty as that is it is the truth. I know in my last install I made that shit impossible to remove without the right tools, security bits, etc.

Looks good thus far, keep it up.
Thanks.

Yes I know but my baby literally doesnt leave my sight thats no joke.
Allways garage kept and she is even locked while in the garage and I lock the overhead door (thats the only access no windows or other doors)
The only time I dont have an eye on her is when I have to sleep.... :cry: :P :lol:
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thedeal7235
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Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)

Post by thedeal7235 »

where is trinity?
as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
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Bfowler
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Post by Bfowler »

ok sooo excuse my ms paint drawing, but i had another idea that might work out. if not...no worries, my feelings wont be hurt

so this is supposed to be looking down on your rack.

the Grey is your fuse blocks

the black are your L brackets



the idea is if you put a hinge behind one side of the l bracket. and used thumb screws on the other side, you could take out the thumb screws and allow the whole thing to swing over like a door. you would likly need to re-enforce it (in blue)


(the blue is the potential movment
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my ex-girlfriend said "its car audio or me"
i've had tougher choices at a soda machine...
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dwnrodeo
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Location: MI

Post by dwnrodeo »

Love the false floor! That PG acylic is going to look sick as hell once lit up. Now that I'll be re-configuring my system I'm going to have to find a way to incorporate mine into my install. Again, nicely done.
XS2300, XS2500, XS2300, X200.4, X100.2, Ti21000.4, Roadster 66

I'm gonna become a civil engineer. I'm gonna design septic tanks for playgrounds. Little kids can take shits! You idiot, what the hell do you do?
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4Nine
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Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 5:58 pm
Location: Trinity,FL.

Post by 4Nine »

thedeal7235 wrote:where is trinity?
Just 20mins north of clearwater.
New Port Richey area.


Bfowler wrote:ok sooo excuse my ms paint drawing, but i had another idea that might work out. if not...no worries, my feelings wont be hurt

so this is supposed to be looking down on your rack.

the Grey is your fuse blocks

the black are your L brackets



the idea is if you put a hinge behind one side of the l bracket. and used thumb screws on the other side, you could take out the thumb screws and allow the whole thing to swing over like a door. you would likly need to re-enforce it (in blue)


(the blue is the potential movment

I Like It...thanks

We will come up with something..the noodle is allready turning... :P

Im thinking flush mount the hinges (I have 2 I didnt use) behind the L-bracket.


dwnrodeo wrote:Love the false floor! That PG acylic is going to look sick as hell once lit up. Now that I'll be re-configuring my system I'm going to have to find a way to incorporate mine into my install. Again, nicely done.
Thank you.
Yeah Jasons work is sick the only thing with me is that I keep
getting finger prints on it... :oops:
theothermike
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Joined: Wed Apr 01, 2009 4:42 am

Post by theothermike »

ladies and gents that was my opps on the acrylic =/. to much pressure on the drill when it got through. jerked it to a crack.

the mdf might look nice with black carpet al. since we arnt able to pull off the floating look on the distros like we can with the amps. also it would look better imo because seeing to many wires might be bad. and with mdf carpeted ud see the wires neatly organized into the blocks and out of the blocks. keeps it at a neat minimum since neatly running the wires under the plexi would be hard since ud need to use wire clips to secure them neatly or itll sag.

My 2 cents of input look at everything uve done.

Call me up or pm me on CA.com when the next time is u can meet so we can finish this. =]
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smgreen20
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Post by smgreen20 »

theothermike wrote:ladies and gents that was my opps on the acrylic =/. to much pressure on the drill when it got through. jerked it to a crack.
The next time you drill through plexi/acrylic, put a piece of scrap wood under it so it wont chip when the bit exits the plexi/acrylic or crack.
"ZPA's will have the same sound essentially as you get from the MS, they just feature a bigger shinier set of balls."

Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
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stipud
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Post by stipud »

smgreen20 wrote:
theothermike wrote:ladies and gents that was my opps on the acrylic =/. to much pressure on the drill when it got through. jerked it to a crack.
The next time you drill through plexi/acrylic, put a piece of scrap wood under it so it wont chip when the bit exits the plexi/acrylic or crack.
I also like to duct tape the plexi on both sides. Helps if you've got the clear tape too. It REALLY helps against cracks and breaks when cutting.
Thumper88
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Location: Michigan

Post by Thumper88 »

good to see my amps getting put to good use! 8)
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