M Series rack design feedback requested.........
- HoseHead
- Tim Horton Himself
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M Series rack design feedback requested.........
I put together this prototype rack for my shrouded M units. I will run all drivers active and this setup will provide 9 channels. Drivers will be Boston 6.53, but without the BA XOvers - subs are also BA 10.5LF units. I can do two or three.
This rack is custom fit and the "front" will be entirely exposed to the cabin when the fold down seats are open. This will allow for "in cabin" adjustments and also provide a bling factor.
Each "tray" slides forward and there is about 3/4" of clearance between trays. With the shrouds, I don't anticipate cooling to be an issue. I used standard kitchen drawer slides from Home Depot. They are capable of holding 75 lbs each and are solid even when extended. Of course they will be "locked" closed when vehicle is in motion. The top 2 sets will be changed to shorter units that will not protrude out the rear.
I'm just in the design stage and am open to feedback - positive, negative or otherwise. Thanks for your time and comments.
Bruce
This rack is custom fit and the "front" will be entirely exposed to the cabin when the fold down seats are open. This will allow for "in cabin" adjustments and also provide a bling factor.
Each "tray" slides forward and there is about 3/4" of clearance between trays. With the shrouds, I don't anticipate cooling to be an issue. I used standard kitchen drawer slides from Home Depot. They are capable of holding 75 lbs each and are solid even when extended. Of course they will be "locked" closed when vehicle is in motion. The top 2 sets will be changed to shorter units that will not protrude out the rear.
I'm just in the design stage and am open to feedback - positive, negative or otherwise. Thanks for your time and comments.
Bruce
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The only stupid question is the one not asked .......
- str3atwarrior
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- fordtough1
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Who cares about your rack, its those Boston 6.53s which have me interested!
Rack idea looks cool so far though.
Rack idea looks cool so far though.
Got "schooled" by member shawn k on May 10th, 2011...
No longer really "in tune" with the audio industry, and probably have not been for some time.
Hands down the forum's most ignorant member...
Don't even know what Ohm's law is...
No longer really "in tune" with the audio industry, and probably have not been for some time.
Hands down the forum's most ignorant member...
Don't even know what Ohm's law is...
item
its a cool idea but not to show all those hot m amps is a shame.
To bad you could not get it in plexi or metal so its looking like the items are floating to show them all
very good idea for space.

To bad you could not get it in plexi or metal so its looking like the items are floating to show them all

very good idea for space.
most of my gear is gone :liar:
2020 honda accord sport
2020 honda accord sport
- HoseHead
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Here's what I've built for Boston 10.5LF subs. I have the custom triple built, but will also try out singles in separate enclosures. OD are 12.5 X 12.5 X 10.0 - BA's recommendation. I'm curious to hear the difference between 2 and 3 subs. Using just 2 would free up some trunk space as well.
I used spiked nuts to ensure a tight seal and the screws can be removed as often as needed without compromising the MDF, especially during the build itself. Highly recommended.
I used spiked nuts to ensure a tight seal and the screws can be removed as often as needed without compromising the MDF, especially during the build itself. Highly recommended.
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The only stupid question is the one not asked .......
- HoseHead
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Eric,Eric D wrote:Who cares about your rack, its those Boston 6.53s which have me interested!
Rack idea looks cool so far though.
Here's the 6.53 units already mounted to templates that allow factory cavities to be used. They won't be seen though. I won't be using the x-overs as they are massive and I have enough channels to go completely active. Again, I have a few options for the subs.
HH
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The only stupid question is the one not asked .......
- HoseHead
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Here's an in-car mock up. I gotta pretty decent sized hole ....
Trays will be lockable in closed position. Outta sight with the seat up.

Trays will be lockable in closed position. Outta sight with the seat up.
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- HoseHead
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Rear view. Remember, the tray slides will not protrude outside the rack.
With twin M44's, I think it looks too busy and lopsided as they have to be offset due to tray width. More options in next post.
The sub box will be X2 or the triple. The triple box is the same width as the rack and would snug right up. Bridged M100 for horsepower.
With twin M44's, I think it looks too busy and lopsided as they have to be offset due to tray width. More options in next post.
The sub box will be X2 or the triple. The triple box is the same width as the rack and would snug right up. Bridged M100 for horsepower.
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- HoseHead
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Two additional options, but I lose two channels and a shroud in the process. Not a huge deal, but I was trying to get three shrouded M's in a single system ....
An M50 or M25 vice M44. These would be driving BA 6.5LF units. As a component set, they are rated to handle 500W, so driving 50-80W into each 6.5LF on it's own should be adequate and safe. Sandwiched between a pair of Eq215x's makes for a more symetrical look, which I prefer.
A pic of the ride.....

An M50 or M25 vice M44. These would be driving BA 6.5LF units. As a component set, they are rated to handle 500W, so driving 50-80W into each 6.5LF on it's own should be adequate and safe. Sandwiched between a pair of Eq215x's makes for a more symetrical look, which I prefer.
A pic of the ride.....
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- Bfowler
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i really like that! and i think its the first time i have seen 2x4's successfully used in a install!
the chice with the m50 looks the best...but a cooled m44 seems like it would provide the most adequate power..
i dunno man you're gonna have to do some soul searching on that one.
what if you made another slider that came out above the sub boxes in the trunk?
the chice with the m50 looks the best...but a cooled m44 seems like it would provide the most adequate power..
i dunno man you're gonna have to do some soul searching on that one.
what if you made another slider that came out above the sub boxes in the trunk?
my ex-girlfriend said "its car audio or me"
i've had tougher choices at a soda machine...
i've had tougher choices at a soda machine...
- HoseHead
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I hear you guys and thanks for the ideas.
I wanted to use some of the gear I have in a period ride - mid '90's. I made a list of things I would like to have and worked from there.
- Go a little over the top, not onecrazycivic's top, but slightly rude.
- Use shrouded M Series - make sure of fresh air supply - fans can pull air frmo the entire trunk cavity.
- Use a pair of Eq215's - These also have a DR port to delay amp power up.
- Show off the hardware - only need this when car not in motion - Here I came up with sliding tray design. Each piece can be shown, but not all at once. To show everything would take up too much usable space. This is a seasonal driver and is used for overnight road trips so storage space is a factor. Here I get half a large trunk and a complete rear seat area.
- Secure when car in motion - tray locking mechanism - steel pins through slide rails? TBD
- System to be hidden when needed - seats fold up and nothing in view for scumbags etc.
- Access to amp/processor adjustable features from within the cabin - had to place the amps as they are to achieve this. A nice design with EVERYTHING on a single side. Wiring will run through routed slots on each tray's underside and have a flexible harness for tray movement.
- Use Boston Acoustics drivers and subs - everything active - need 7 channels - perhaps 8 for a centre channel. 8th not critical.
- Master cabin control device like a TEq6 or AC Four.1
There's always compromise.
Thanks for any input. I'll draw a system block diagram and signal path flow chart for you guys to beat up.
HH
I wanted to use some of the gear I have in a period ride - mid '90's. I made a list of things I would like to have and worked from there.
- Go a little over the top, not onecrazycivic's top, but slightly rude.
- Use shrouded M Series - make sure of fresh air supply - fans can pull air frmo the entire trunk cavity.
- Use a pair of Eq215's - These also have a DR port to delay amp power up.
- Show off the hardware - only need this when car not in motion - Here I came up with sliding tray design. Each piece can be shown, but not all at once. To show everything would take up too much usable space. This is a seasonal driver and is used for overnight road trips so storage space is a factor. Here I get half a large trunk and a complete rear seat area.
- Secure when car in motion - tray locking mechanism - steel pins through slide rails? TBD
- System to be hidden when needed - seats fold up and nothing in view for scumbags etc.
- Access to amp/processor adjustable features from within the cabin - had to place the amps as they are to achieve this. A nice design with EVERYTHING on a single side. Wiring will run through routed slots on each tray's underside and have a flexible harness for tray movement.
- Use Boston Acoustics drivers and subs - everything active - need 7 channels - perhaps 8 for a centre channel. 8th not critical.
- Master cabin control device like a TEq6 or AC Four.1
There's always compromise.
Thanks for any input. I'll draw a system block diagram and signal path flow chart for you guys to beat up.
HH
The only stupid question is the one not asked .......
- rscecil007
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Does any of this help with the install?HoseHead wrote:I hear you guys and thanks for the ideas.
I wanted to use some of the gear I have in a period ride - mid '90's. I made a list of things I would like to have and worked from there.
- Go a little over the top, not onecrazycivic's top, but slightly rude.
- Use shrouded M Series - make sure of fresh air supply - fans can pull air frmo the entire trunk cavity.
- Use a pair of Eq215's - These also have a DR port to delay amp power up.
- Show off the hardware - only need this when car not in motion - Here I came up with sliding tray design. Each piece can be shown, but not all at once. To show everything would take up too much usable space. This is a seasonal driver and is used for overnight road trips so storage space is a factor. Here I get half a large trunk and a complete rear seat area.
- Secure when car in motion - tray locking mechanism - steel pins through slide rails? TBD
- System to be hidden when needed - seats fold up and nothing in view for scumbags etc.
- Access to amp/processor adjustable features from within the cabin - had to place the amps as they are to achieve this. A nice design with EVERYTHING on a single side. Wiring will run through routed slots on each tray's underside and have a flexible harness for tray movement.
- Use Boston Acoustics drivers and subs - everything active - need 7 channels - perhaps 8 for a centre channel. 8th not critical.
- Master cabin control device like a TEq6 or AC Four.1
There's always compromise.
Thanks for any input. I'll draw a system block diagram and signal path flow chart for you guys to beat up.
HH
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very nice rack....I hope you have good A/C ...thats alot of M you got there in 1 spot....
I would swap them stock fans out for some higher rpm and more CFM ones on the shrouds.... I have a set of 7200rpm ones here ...only problem is ...they are a hair louder than my stereo
I would swap them stock fans out for some higher rpm and more CFM ones on the shrouds.... I have a set of 7200rpm ones here ...only problem is ...they are a hair louder than my stereo

Last edited by tonym on Thu Jun 03, 2010 5:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hosehead..
i was just looking at the pics in your first post..
I'd do that initial design you had... An M44 & EQ on the upper 2 shelves.. this could easily determine which is left, and which is right by the location of the EQ..
Maybe mount the M100 to line up with the top M44, and mount something next to it on the bottom shelf (line driver, etc) so it looks similar in layout to the other 2 levels..
love the design though, i think it works well!! and of course could allow for installation of fans to the side of the rack doing a push/pull arrangement..
i was just looking at the pics in your first post..
I'd do that initial design you had... An M44 & EQ on the upper 2 shelves.. this could easily determine which is left, and which is right by the location of the EQ..
Maybe mount the M100 to line up with the top M44, and mount something next to it on the bottom shelf (line driver, etc) so it looks similar in layout to the other 2 levels..
love the design though, i think it works well!! and of course could allow for installation of fans to the side of the rack doing a push/pull arrangement..

Damo - Australian member..
Speakers: 3 way front - morel elate9 (in custom doors), Peerless HDS Exlusive 4" midrange (in kicks), Scanspeak 1" illuminator (in custom a-pillars)
Subwoofers: 3x Phoenix Gold Ti2 10d2 (in wheel well enclosure)
PG Ti amps: 2x Ti600.4 (front stage) + Ti2500.1 (sub duties)
Speakers: 3 way front - morel elate9 (in custom doors), Peerless HDS Exlusive 4" midrange (in kicks), Scanspeak 1" illuminator (in custom a-pillars)
Subwoofers: 3x Phoenix Gold Ti2 10d2 (in wheel well enclosure)
PG Ti amps: 2x Ti600.4 (front stage) + Ti2500.1 (sub duties)
- HoseHead
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Or I could go this Ti route ....
500.4 / 600.2
DEQ / DD10
1200.1 / BCube
Bruce

500.4 / 600.2
DEQ / DD10
1200.1 / BCube
Bruce
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The only stupid question is the one not asked .......