
Stipud's SAAB 9-5
- thedeal7235
- Posts: 1866
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location: Sanford, Florida(orlando area)
its funny you mention the out of phase, gkitching told me anytime he did a system he always hooks the rf mid out of phase- btw, i just NOW saw the pics from the goodies bfowler sent u, TOO FUNNY
(btw, you did a beautiful job on ur sound deadening)

as she walked out the door she expressed, 'enjoy your amp addiction'
After finishing my capacitor install last night (pics will follow soon), I phase tuned my stereo for a few hours.
I set up the balance and fader so that only one side of my components were playing at any time. I flipped the phase between the tweeter and mid back and forth, listening to my IASCA test discs, to figure out where they phased best. I found on the driver's side, that the tweet and mid sounded best when they were wired out of phase from each other. This is likely due to the shorter path of the driver's side tweet on the dash to my ears, compared to the mids in the doors. On the passenger side, the speakers had similar path lengths and sounded best in phase with each other.
Now I set the balance to the middle and tried phasing between the two sides of my components. I found it sounded best with the passenger side out of phase with the drivers side. It gave me a much wider soundstage and a better center of imaging that way. Finally I hooked my sub up and switched phase back and forth, and found it worked best in phase.
So what I ended up with was:
LT : 180
LW : 0
RT : 180
RW : 180
S : 0
So the only difference to before is that I also switched the right tweeter phase, otherwise I was pretty close! However, since this setup meant I had 3 of the 4 outputs flipped at my crossover, which looked a bit silly, I decided to invert the total system phase once more. This seemed to sound pretty much identical. So my final setup is:
LT : 0
LW : 180
RT : 0
RW : 0
S : 180
I also found the tweeter level jumpers for my Ti Elite crossovers and put them back in. With the added treble it stages quite a bit higher, and the clarity is improved a bit. I don't have to turn up the volume as far to get the same "output" as before, so the tweeters seem less strained despite that they are playing "louder".
It's amazing what messing around with your phasing can do for you. The best part is it requires no extra equipment to do... you just flip the speaker wires over! You should all give this a try, especially if you've got your tweeters and mids mounted separately!
I set up the balance and fader so that only one side of my components were playing at any time. I flipped the phase between the tweeter and mid back and forth, listening to my IASCA test discs, to figure out where they phased best. I found on the driver's side, that the tweet and mid sounded best when they were wired out of phase from each other. This is likely due to the shorter path of the driver's side tweet on the dash to my ears, compared to the mids in the doors. On the passenger side, the speakers had similar path lengths and sounded best in phase with each other.
Now I set the balance to the middle and tried phasing between the two sides of my components. I found it sounded best with the passenger side out of phase with the drivers side. It gave me a much wider soundstage and a better center of imaging that way. Finally I hooked my sub up and switched phase back and forth, and found it worked best in phase.
So what I ended up with was:
LT : 180
LW : 0
RT : 180
RW : 180
S : 0
So the only difference to before is that I also switched the right tweeter phase, otherwise I was pretty close! However, since this setup meant I had 3 of the 4 outputs flipped at my crossover, which looked a bit silly, I decided to invert the total system phase once more. This seemed to sound pretty much identical. So my final setup is:
LT : 0
LW : 180
RT : 0
RW : 0
S : 180
I also found the tweeter level jumpers for my Ti Elite crossovers and put them back in. With the added treble it stages quite a bit higher, and the clarity is improved a bit. I don't have to turn up the volume as far to get the same "output" as before, so the tweeters seem less strained despite that they are playing "louder".
It's amazing what messing around with your phasing can do for you. The best part is it requires no extra equipment to do... you just flip the speaker wires over! You should all give this a try, especially if you've got your tweeters and mids mounted separately!
With you being the computer guy you are, you didn't have any of those jumpers laying around??? I'm by no means a computer techy, but I've got a few extra of those floating around. More so now that my desk top died. I'm going to part that bitch out.
Ahhh the fun has yet to begin for me. When I get done w/my re-install of the front end, I'll be doing all of that myself. I just might save myself the pain and start w/how you finished.
Ahhh the fun has yet to begin for me. When I get done w/my re-install of the front end, I'll be doing all of that myself. I just might save myself the pain and start w/how you finished.

"ZPA's will have the same sound essentially as you get from the MS, they just feature a bigger shinier set of balls."
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
Install:
http://phoenixphorum.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=16998
I'm right on it!!stipud wrote:After finishing my capacitor install last night (pics will follow soon), I phase tuned my stereo for a few hours.
I set up the balance and fader so that only one side of my components were playing at any time. I flipped the phase between the tweeter and mid back and forth, listening to my IASCA test discs, to figure out where they phased best. I found on the driver's side, that the tweet and mid sounded best when they were wired out of phase from each other. This is likely due to the shorter path of the driver's side tweet on the dash to my ears, compared to the mids in the doors. On the passenger side, the speakers had similar path lengths and sounded best in phase with each other.
Now I set the balance to the middle and tried phasing between the two sides of my components. I found it sounded best with the passenger side out of phase with the drivers side. It gave me a much wider soundstage and a better center of imaging that way. Finally I hooked my sub up and switched phase back and forth, and found it worked best in phase.
So what I ended up with was:
LT : 180
LW : 0
RT : 180
RW : 180
S : 0
So the only difference to before is that I also switched the right tweeter phase, otherwise I was pretty close! However, since this setup meant I had 3 of the 4 outputs flipped at my crossover, which looked a bit silly, I decided to invert the total system phase once more. This seemed to sound pretty much identical. So my final setup is:
LT : 0
LW : 180
RT : 0
RW : 0
S : 180
I also found the tweeter level jumpers for my Ti Elite crossovers and put them back in. With the added treble it stages quite a bit higher, and the clarity is improved a bit. I don't have to turn up the volume as far to get the same "output" as before, so the tweeters seem less strained despite that they are playing "louder".
It's amazing what messing around with your phasing can do for you. The best part is it requires no extra equipment to do... you just flip the speaker wires over! You should all give this a try, especially if you've got your tweeters and mids mounted separately!

screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
So I made a lot more progress on the sound deadening front. Finished off my whole trunk and the back shelf! Took me ages!
While I was in there I figured I would install a 1 farad PG cap I had lying around, as well as improving my ground and adding a fuse for the amp!
Cap installed first. There's actually quite a bit of stock deadener.

Several evenings of work. Every inch of it was rolled over several times with a heat gun. Every contour was followed precisely, and every air bubble popped!




I was planning to install the MLV over the wheel wells, but the car already had thicker formed MLV strut covers!

Bass is quite a bit smoother and louder now. I also dropped my crossover frequency to near 50Hz or so, and it blends ever so nicely. The only thing left that rattles in the car is the Ti500.4 itself. Going to have to see what I can do about that one because I already installed deadener under the cover on it.
While I was in there I figured I would install a 1 farad PG cap I had lying around, as well as improving my ground and adding a fuse for the amp!
Cap installed first. There's actually quite a bit of stock deadener.

Several evenings of work. Every inch of it was rolled over several times with a heat gun. Every contour was followed precisely, and every air bubble popped!




I was planning to install the MLV over the wheel wells, but the car already had thicker formed MLV strut covers!

Bass is quite a bit smoother and louder now. I also dropped my crossover frequency to near 50Hz or so, and it blends ever so nicely. The only thing left that rattles in the car is the Ti500.4 itself. Going to have to see what I can do about that one because I already installed deadener under the cover on it.
- oldskoolmseriesfan
- Sherlock Homey
- Posts: 2517
- Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:03 pm
- Location: WEST SIIIIDE!!
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- Posts: 897
- Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2009 11:08 am
- Location: Burb of Detroit
Nicely done with the deadener. It takes a lot of time and effort, but in the end is definitely worth it.
XS2300, XS2500, XS2300, X200.4, X100.2, Ti21000.4, Roadster 66
I'm gonna become a civil engineer. I'm gonna design septic tanks for playgrounds. Little kids can take shits! You idiot, what the hell do you do?
I'm gonna become a civil engineer. I'm gonna design septic tanks for playgrounds. Little kids can take shits! You idiot, what the hell do you do?
- oldskoolmseriesfan
- Sherlock Homey
- Posts: 2517
- Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:03 pm
- Location: WEST SIIIIDE!!
thats phorum. really now? what are you implying? it's deadener not a pink skirt homie.....ttocs wrote:when it comes to my system, hell yea but if I were not I would be on the "Thump" site not the pg phrorum.

screw car audio, I'd rather go fast....errr, wait a minute.
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- Half Baked
- Posts: 3533
- Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 2:58 pm
- Location: TN, YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHAW!!!!
- Contact:
I accidentally put some deadener on the trunk lid where it is visible, and I have tried and failed several times to get it off. When this stuff is stuck, it doesn't come unstuck. Considering I am plastering several layers of it over every surface, there is no need for a denser mat. It doesn't smell at all, and it's easy to work with. Considering the cost it gets nothing but my recommendation.
I used Dynamat original on my shelf before, and that stuff lifted off with no effort when I replaced it, and that stuff still stunk!
I used Dynamat original on my shelf before, and that stuff lifted off with no effort when I replaced it, and that stuff still stunk!

-
- Half Baked
- Posts: 3533
- Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 2:58 pm
- Location: TN, YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHAW!!!!
- Contact:
I've had good luck using ether (starting fluid). It works well on my scissors and utility knife I use for cutting the stuff and it evaporates quite quickly. Brake cleaner does a better job, but quite a bit nastier if used on your car.
XS2300, XS2500, XS2300, X200.4, X100.2, Ti21000.4, Roadster 66
I'm gonna become a civil engineer. I'm gonna design septic tanks for playgrounds. Little kids can take shits! You idiot, what the hell do you do?
I'm gonna become a civil engineer. I'm gonna design septic tanks for playgrounds. Little kids can take shits! You idiot, what the hell do you do?
werid you must have way way to much time on your hands ttocsttocs wrote:another reason I like second skin is they don't cover it with their name, that design would drive me nuts..
bet it sounds alot better now though
looks good who care as long as it work!!! great job

you have to remeber these are personal cars not show cars with step by step install pics......
ttocs do you have all your installs pics? im sure someone will find something to say...

Tom very nice work as always
does it sound better?
most of my gear is gone :liar:
2020 honda accord sport
2020 honda accord sport
my god people I said the design would drive me nuts, AND that it must sound much better now right?
How come people only read half my comment and have gone completely off topic? Am I anal about my car, yes. Never been to a show but what I know can drive me nuts. ITS CALLED CONSTRUCTIVE CRITISISM. I didn't come out and say"Man, that looks like complete ass with all those stupied decepticon symbols and you would have to be a dumbass to use that stupid lookin shit as it doesn't work" now did I?
Don't jump my shit when you post things on an open forum, ask for comments/suggestions and then get your panties is a wad when you get them.
Now back to topic please, pm me if you want to drag it out.
How come people only read half my comment and have gone completely off topic? Am I anal about my car, yes. Never been to a show but what I know can drive me nuts. ITS CALLED CONSTRUCTIVE CRITISISM. I didn't come out and say"Man, that looks like complete ass with all those stupied decepticon symbols and you would have to be a dumbass to use that stupid lookin shit as it doesn't work" now did I?
Don't jump my shit when you post things on an open forum, ask for comments/suggestions and then get your panties is a wad when you get them.
Now back to topic please, pm me if you want to drag it out.
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.