My Install

Starunit10 · Post by **Starunit10** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 12:24 pm

q forms figured it out, I had some in same style truck. E brake worked with no mods.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 12:46 pm

dwnrodeo wrote:I've always been a fan of tweets in the lower A-pillar or sail panel myself. I've had the tweeters in lower locations before and as soon as a passenger is present, all imaging is ruined. The A-pillar location gives you a direct path between the tweeter and your ears and has less chances of having an object come between them.

That was my thinking when I put the tweets up high. I always have shit piled up on my dash. It's a work truck. But it's also my everywhere I go truck. And know one else ever gets in. So I like to crank it up on the hi-way back and fourth every day.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 12:47 pm

Starunit10 wrote:q forms figured it out, I had some in same style truck. E brake worked with no mods.

Hmmm. I'll look into that.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 6:51 pm

Finally, got my new alt and first battery today. Optima yellow top and 250amp alt. just need to get the two ti 800.1's and kick panels, then I hopefully I can keep busy for awhile.

Post by **ttocs** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:16 pm

If I knew you were going optima I would have tried to talk you out of it. I have not heard much good from them for some time now which was why I went kinetik myself.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:34 pm

I will be using the kinetics eventually in the truck. The optima was an impulse buy. It's actually going to be used for a new test bench I'm planning on building soon.

dvnt88 · Post by **dvnt88** » Thu Nov 01, 2012 4:50 am

I'm using an Optima Yellow top (with a PowerBastards 240a alt) as my starting battery and have a Kinetik 1800 in the rear powering the stereo and have never had a problem with either battery, must've been a bad batch or QC went to shit for awhile, just my .02c.

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Nov 01, 2012 5:05 am

a bunch of bad batches from what I have heard. Enough that I would not conisider them myself. Hopefully everyones luck keeps up with them they are too expensive to not be a good battery.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Thu Nov 01, 2012 7:43 am

Guess ill find out. This one is brand new, only made a few months ago. So I'm sure any previous problems were worked out. I still need to find a good charging system though. Any info on this would be great. What are other people using to power there boards or benches.

dvnt88 · Post by **dvnt88** » Thu Nov 01, 2012 1:02 pm

Drock wrote:Guess ill find out. This one is brand new, only made a few months ago. So I'm sure any previous problems were worked out. I still need to find a good charging system though. Any info on this would be great. What are other people using to power there boards or benches.

I'm using a Kinetik 80a PS with a Stinger battery (see links below) to power the mancave soundboard (1000wrms total with the 600.1 and 100.4 Xenon's ...conservatively).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinetik-KIPS12- ... 3c&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STINGER-SPP680- ... 35baee3cf4

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Thu Nov 01, 2012 7:40 pm

Thanks Brian. That's exactly what I'm looking for.

dvnt88 · Post by **dvnt88** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:53 am

Anytime bro.

Macgyver76 · Post by **Macgyver76** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 7:25 pm

As to the drivers kick dilemma.... Ditch the parking brake and hood release and build the right kicks. Replace the parking brake with a an older style totata pull to apply twict to release assembly. I have done it many times and its an easy conversion. when you get the brake buy a new oem toyota cable to go with it. also make sure you get the harness pigtail for the parking brake indicator lite switch on the assembly. As for the hood release install a dei trunk pop solenoid to run it and be sure to wire a relay as an interlock so it cannot be release with the ignition in the run position. It worked for us!

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:23 pm

Macgyver76 wrote:As to the drivers kick dilemma.... Ditch the parking brake and hood release and build the right kicks. Replace the parking brake with a an older style totata pull to apply twict to release assembly. I have done it many times and its an easy conversion. when you get the brake buy a new oem toyota cable to go with it. also make sure you get the harness pigtail for the parking brake indicator lite switch on the assembly. As for the hood release install a dei trunk pop solenoid to run it and be sure to wire a relay as an interlock so it cannot be release with the ignition in the run position. It worked for us!

Dude! Where do the kids sit. Lol.
I have three kids, so the best I'm going to do is 4 10" under the seat.
But once my shop is done ill have a treat for everyone. None of my stash will be sitting in a closet. We got our approval to start building the new three bay shop with studio above as well as our new house last mon. Just waiting for the permits to arrive. Hopefully starting to build next week. I'll start a new post for the project when I start building.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:26 pm

I've been trying to upload pics, but I keep getting a message saying the file has unknown dimensions. Does anyone know how to fix this?

Macgyver76 · Post by **Macgyver76** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 2:59 pm

The customer I did the truck for has a suburban for the kids to ride in. That was his SQ toy and yes I said SQ. It took 3rd in its class, the only 2 that beat us were OWNED by Rockford Fosgate.... but with a parking brake relocate, the skys the limit on the kicks. Traditionally trucks are more difficult to do SQ with due to path length. so the kicks are key to sonic goodness! Did the Ti9's in the doors on this truck too. Was VERY pleased with the results.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 6:26 pm

I want to put my 9's in so bad. But I don't want to go ahead and glass the door panels until I can find a second set. ( for just in case) it would suck to go through all the work and not be able to replace them.

That's a shit pile of cable under the hood. I still need to do another 0/1 ga run but I'm having trouble finding a sealed fuse holder.

Macgyver76 · Post by **Macgyver76** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 6:59 pm

3 1/0 positives and 3 1/0 negatives run from engine bay to cabin. Ran it all on a 250 amp alt and two optima yellows. Voltage was SOLID under all conditions. 2 inch pvc conduit down the drivers side framerail to channel it all.

Macgyver76 · Post by **Macgyver76** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 7:03 pm

Signal and output routing....

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Sun Dec 02, 2012 8:47 pm

Macgyver76 wrote:Signal and output routing....

What is the yellow tubing?

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Sun Dec 02, 2012 8:50 pm

Perspective. 10" vs 12"

: ImageUploadedByTapatalk1354510218.515360.jpg (94.91 KiB) Viewed 11853 times

Just need to figure out how to fit the 12" under the seat. High excursion subs are not easy to hide.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Sun Dec 02, 2012 9:11 pm

I don't really know anyone local that is into car audio, so it's hard to gage how well my setup is as there is nothing to compare it to. But today I ran into a guy that had a nice sounding system. He was running sundown amp and a pair of RSD 10" subs. He was going on about how good it pounded. Myself I thought my ti10"s were great but I've always felt I needed a bit more. But after today comparing my ti10's against his rsd10" and using a ti800.1 for sub duty. I was reassured the ti10d is still my sub of choice. They killed the RSD's. In comparison it sounded like I have 15" and he had 10's. so I felt better about my setup today.
Next week though, it all changes.
All the Elites amps are going in. And all the Elite comps. Still looking for the subs. But the digital designs will do for now.
I think I will have to give up some Ti amps though to buy the Elite subs.
(That was an order by the way, from the head honcho.)

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Sun Dec 02, 2012 10:05 pm

Man I can't wait to see what you have plan with the Elite, I know the feeling I have nobody around this small town thats into car audio. Most of my friend that have system they got them from Future Shop, Best Buy in pre-fab boxes so its not the same well to me its not anyways.

Is you man cave done yet? lol

So you can start on the Elite and your new set up next week.

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Mon Dec 03, 2012 9:51 am

I took a few days off. So started framing this morning. Hope to be done by Friday . Then pour the floor on tue next week. Heat is going in next Friday. Then I'll tear the truck down.

RobertJr79 · Post by **RobertJr79** » Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:53 pm

Drock wrote:I took a few days off. So started framing this morning. Hope to be done by Friday . Then pour the floor on tue next week. Heat is going in next Friday. Then I'll tear the truck down.

Nice lets hope it all works out for you.

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