97 Maxima Install - Being Redone

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:00 am

damn, that sucks then cause I've had 3 different sets of SSMB8s (6 woofers in total), and they all have done the same thing.

I'll post pics when I get home.

Post by **stipud** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:14 am

What the hell. Yeah, if the yellow part isn't connected, the only suspension the woofer has is it's surround. I'm amazed they work at all....

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 6:35 am

okay, correction on everything above...

I was working on my car on Friday and decided to look at the speaker with my bro again. The spider is connected to the cone. The actual speaker actually bottoms out too soon is why it's making that slapping noise. It hits the magnet at the bottom.

More pics to come when I get a chance... right now trying to figure out why the hell my crap doesn't stop wining (hearing engine noise). Going through the steps to figure out why, but I have a good feeling the ground is too close to the car's ECU... haven't had that much time to try all the steps in the how-to yet.

Post by **stipud** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:11 am

Sounds like they need an enclosure to work. Strange, mine seemed to work fine free air, though I was only running 75 watts on them.

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:13 am

I think they work fine with 75 watts, but I tried putting 100w using my TI before and 200w using my xenon now.

I kinda figured they need an enclosure, but I got my 9s in now!!! Gonna try to put them in as soon as I can... gotta make a custom mount for them first though.

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:09 am

So I spent a lot of time yesterday making these custom 9" brackets fit the Maxima. Everything that could go wrong, basically did, and in the end, it took 7 hours to get 2 brackets done!!! Was much easier to do the second one after I figured out exactly what was needed when I made the first one.

Pictures below:

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:16 am

For some reason, the comments were cut on the last picture:

Here's a shot of the three brackets (2 1/4" and 1 3/4"). The 1/4" brackets have bigger holes made from the bigger drill bit wihle the 3/4" bracket has a smaller hole so the screw can clamp all three together without any gap from the screw threads. I know, I destroyed the big drill bit, but that's all I had and was going to work with it till it broke. I basically burned the holes through towards the end. Thank god it didn't break.

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:18 am

I then needed to glue the three pieces together to make 1 bracket:

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:24 am

As you can see from the pic above, the 8 screws that are in right now are meant to hold the speaker to the bracket and the 4 holes that have no screws are meant to hold the bracket to the door.

If you're wondering why I used a 3/4" and 2 1/4" brackets, your answer is test and trial. I originally wanted to just use a 3/4" bracket and put the speakers in the car. That didn't work because the door hole is too small (designed for 6.5" speakers, so I had to push the 9" further out. I figured I'll buy a sheet of 1/4" mdf in case just a 3/4" and 1/4" (1" MDF total) made the speaker fit, but that didn't work either. In case that didn't work, I would just cut another 1/4" out instead of buying another sheet of 1/2" MDF and use that.

I was trying to be very conscious that the speaker does not hit the door panel (which it does now, so there's gonna be cutting there too), that's why I wanted the mount as shallow as possible.

I'll be back to work on this tonight after work to mount the speakers into the doors. I unfortunately have to cut the door slightly to make the speaker terminals fit and cut a flap off the inner door panel so the mounted speaker does not slap against the door panel.

More pictures to come...

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:35 am

Also, after much trial and error, I got the TI6 Elites to sound "perfect" with a high pass filter @ 100 Hz, and each speaker pushing 200 watts, using the passive crossovers. I got 100 Hz from trying different songs and moving the frequency around until the bass was not hitting sloppy, but was still hitting hard. I then counted the clicks on the x200.4 and saw that it was set to 99 Hz.

Now, the TI9 manual says to cross them at 150 Hz when using the TI9-5-1 setup. The high crossing is probably because the 5.25" cannot dig as deep as the 6.5" speakers, so the TI9's have to make up for it. Since the 6" can go to 100 Hz, should I cross the 9"'s at 100 Hz, or at 150 Hz? The 9" are going to receive 400 watts per side.

Also, the manual says they should run bandpass 40-150, but I don't think I can do that with TI400.2's (which will power these). I am basically going to run two y-splitters from the output of the x200.4 to 2 TI400.2's (ran bridged) so I can maintain stereo on the TI9's. Anyone have any ideas on how to run them bandpass? Is there a need to run the bandpass, will the 9" be damaged if I am pushing 400 watts to them without a HPF @ 40 Hz?

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 7:42 am

So here's the work I did last night after work:

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 7:46 am

More Pics:

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 7:49 am

so after testing this while driving to work today, I think I need to cut some of the door panel off so the speaker does not hit the panel. I'm not sure if this is going to resolve the problem. I had no idea this speaker would move so much on the hard bass hits @ 400 watts. It's still breaking in too, meaning it's gonna move even more!!!

I might have to cut more of the door metal (which I really don't wanna do) and use just a 3/4" (maybe with 1 1/4") bracket so it's not out as far.

Why is this being so difficult!?!

Post by **Rold Gold** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 8:16 am

Because yer putting a fukin 9" speaker in the door of yer car.....

Post by **stipud** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 9:14 am

The screws that fit the speaker ring to the door... are they sunk down so that the speaker can sit flush on the baffle?

Post by **Bfowler** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 9:22 am

i was wondering that too...they look like they would be in the way

Thumper88 · Post by **Thumper88** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 9:32 am

i was wondering the same when I first saw it, hopefully they are countersunk.

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 11:12 am

actually, no they're not. I think I'm gonna pull them out and do that to make the speaker sit flush. Hopefully this makes it so they don't touch the door panels. We're literally talking about mm's distance that I need to clear here.

Will update when I get it done.

Post by **stipud** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 11:32 am

Do that... thin out the baffles if you need to. I would do that long before cutting up door panels

Also, you definitely do need a bandpass filter on the Ti9's. I wouldn't run them lower than 50Hz personally, especially in an open door like that.

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 12:00 pm

What do you recommend I do to get them in bandpass? My current setup right now is from the HU, to the TLD66 line driver, to the x200.4, y-split to 2 TI400.2 amps.

I really don't want to get an external active crossover because 1) don't have any more money to spend and 2) have no idea where to put them... I already gotta figure out how to put 4 amps, the powercore and a huge box back there.

I can replace the 2 TI400.2 amps with a TI800.1 and run the subsonic filter on that, but I'd have to sacrifice stereo.

Ugh, so pissed.

Post by **stipud** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 12:41 pm

You need an HU with crossovers, or an external one... no way around it really. If your Xenons were Ti amps, it would be very possible (they had wicked crossovers

).

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 1:16 pm

I'm powering the TI9s with TI400.2 amps. I don't know of any way I can use the crossovers on the TI amps to get bandpass. They have lowpass, highpass, bypass.

Post by **stipud** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 1:27 pm

maka78 wrote:I'm powering the TI9s with TI400.2 amps. I don't know of any way I can use the crossovers on the TI amps to get bandpass. They have lowpass, highpass, bypass.

If you had Ti amps instead of Xenons, you would set the crossover to highpass at 150Hz for the mids, then send the lowpass remainder of that signal through the aux-out to the 400.2, which is set to highpass at 50Hz. Or with a Ti sub amp set the lowpass crossover at 50Hz and send the highpass remainder to the 400.2, which is set to low-pass at 150Hz.

Aux outputs on Xenons are full range, you can't take the signal after the crossover unfortunately. So this configuration is impossible

GX3 · Post by **GX3** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 2:25 pm

If its a X-over you need try and pick this one by zapco SLX-4 it will do just about anything. there is one on the bay right now but you will need the PS and rca to SymbiLink conversion connectors.

http://www.zapco.com/prod/pdf/slx4.pdf

$75.00 as of this posting no bids

http://cgi.ebay.com/zapco-slx-4_W0QQite ... 240%3A1318

What is the SLX-4?
The SLX-4 is a six-way four output electronic crossover. An
unprecedented amount of flexibility has been designed into this unit allowing
configuration for practically any system. Featuring SymbiLink™ balanced
inputs and outputs, the SLX-4 embodies the total dedication to sonic fidelity
that has made ZAPCO famous around the world.
The SLX-4 has four main outputs that can be configured as follows:
X1 output:
High pass output. This output can also tie into the X3 crossover for
use in high frequency applications.
X2/X3 output:
High pass or band pass output. A circuit board mounted switch
selects between the two modes.
X4/X5 output:
Low pass or band pass output. This output also has the mode
switch.
X6 output:
Low pass output for the woofer. The low pass out may be set to
stereo or to sum-mono. It may also be set to either 12dB/octave or
24dB/octave.
Any output can be fed from either the front or the rear input. This
option allows front/rear fading or daisy-chaining capability.
“Slave” outputs supply the same signal that is fed into the input. The
front input feeds the front slave output and the rear input feeds the rear
slave output.
If the SLX-4 that you have purchased is to be used in a system in
which no Zapco SymbiLink™ amplifiers are to be used, a Zapco PSI-HPSL
will need to be used to power the SLX-4.
62
Key Features
• SymbiLink™ balanced inputs and outputs
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• Dual input capability
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• 12/24dB per octave options for low pass
• No external power wiring necessary when used with a SymbiLink™
amplifier
• High signal voltage capability
• LED clipping indicator
• Dashboard or trunk mountable
• Gold plated signal connectors
• Available in white or black
• Quality ZAPCO construction
• Designed and manufactured in the U.S.A

maka78 · Post by **maka78** » Wed Nov 05, 2008 2:53 pm

That's too much for a simple lowpass or highpass filter I need. I'll just pick up some 24 db/oct 2 way crossover to do the job.