stipud wrote:Just stick with your roadster and passive crossovers ya silly goose
Thanks.....
Its like a sickness.
I've been into car audio for 15-18 years and every system starts small and grows over time. this is no different.... But I will have to say that I do need to add a dedicated set of mids....
I use my home system as a reference....
Though I'm not sure if I should add just a set of 4"/or 5.25" woofers with another set of tweeters or the woofers alone?
stipud wrote:I would go with 4" in the kicks and a good set of midbasses in the doors.
Do you think I should get just the 4 inch woofers or get the 4 inch component set? I'm not sure if adding another set of tweeters is going to help......thoughts?
You would want a 4" and tweeter with a matching passive crossover in the kickpanel. The 6.5" in your door would be delegated to midbass duty, so none of the three speakers play the same frequency. I do not recommend running multiple tweeters.
If your current component set also has a 4" version, it may be as simple as buying the correct 4" driver to go with that set, as long as the crossovers are the same between the 6-1 and 4-1 component sets.
stipud wrote:You would want a 4" and tweeter with a matching passive crossover in the kickpanel. The 6.5" in your door would be delegated to midbass duty, so none of the three speakers play the same frequency. I do not recommend running multiple tweeters.
If your current component set also has a 4" version, it may be as simple as buying the correct 4" driver to go with that set, as long as the crossovers are the same between the 6-1 and 4-1 component sets.
I could buy the 4" woofers and then I would need to buy the 3 way crossovers as well (if I decide to go passive)......my issue is my Roadster is not pushing enough power for a three way component set.
That's why I was thinking of just buying a 4" component set because I can use that for the rear channels on the amp....If I just use the rear channels for the woofers only then I would definitely will need to run active so I can cross them over correctly.
What do you think?
stipud wrote:You would want a 4" and tweeter with a matching passive crossover in the kickpanel. The 6.5" in your door would be delegated to midbass duty, so none of the three speakers play the same frequency. I do not recommend running multiple tweeters.
If your current component set also has a 4" version, it may be as simple as buying the correct 4" driver to go with that set, as long as the crossovers are the same between the 6-1 and 4-1 component sets.
I could buy the 4" woofers and then I would need to buy the 3 way crossovers as well (if I decide to go passive)......my issue is my Roadster is not pushing enough power for a three way component set.
That's why I was thinking of just buying a 4" component set because I can use that for the rear channels on the amp....If I just use the rear channels for the woofers only then I would definitely will need to run active so I can cross them over correctly.
What do you think?
Couldn't you bridge your F and R channels and run the left side off of the front channels and the right side off of your rear channels using a 3-way passive crossover?
I'm starting to upgrade the system again. I am redoing all the wiring in the car.
In anticipation for the new Rainbow Profi 3 ways I am going to rerun the crossovers to the rear of the car. I did have the crossovers in the doors but I am going to be installing the 4" mid range in the kicks. I got rid of the new PG speaker wire and upgraded to the older PG quicksilver speaker wire. I was not a big fan of the new PG speaker wire. I also upgraded all the wiring in the car with Tech Flex. I reran the door speaker wire through the other grommet and removed the speaker wire from the factory door speaker plug,
Blue tech flex for the left side speaker wires-
Green tech flex for the right side speaker wires-
Carbon tech flex for the rear door coaxials-
Carbon tech flex for the power and ground wiring-
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Last edited by bruther on Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
I got rid of the new PG speaker wire and upgraded to the older PG quicksilver speaker wire. I was not a big fan of the new PG speaker wire. I also upgraded all the wiring in the car with Tech Flex. I reran the door speaker wire through the other grommet and removed the speaker wire from the factory door speaker plug
Where did you get the speaker wire from? You said you didn't like the new PG speaker wire? Why not? Where can I get some of the PG quicksilver... and where did you get all that tech flex? That looks so professional. I am in love with it. You make me jealous that I want to kind of copy and do the same. And also run the speaker wire. I hate the small little factory POS wire. Its time to upgrade it. Let me know bro thanks
Kenwood Excelon x592
x200.4(in process of repair OMFG YES)
rsd65cs front
rsd65cs rear
x1200.1
2 rsdc124
using zx350 until repair of x200.4
they sell techflex at fry's electronics if you have one locally. If not there are a number of places online that sell it, it makes wire just f'n sexy and also makes it alot easier to pull and bundle.
I got rid of the new PG speaker wire and upgraded to the older PG quicksilver speaker wire. I was not a big fan of the new PG speaker wire. I also upgraded all the wiring in the car with Tech Flex. I reran the door speaker wire through the other grommet and removed the speaker wire from the factory door speaker plug
Where did you get the speaker wire from? You said you didn't like the new PG speaker wire? Why not? Where can I get some of the PG quicksilver... and where did you get all that tech flex? That looks so professional. I am in love with it. You make me jealous that I want to kind of copy and do the same. And also run the speaker wire. I hate the small little factory POS wire. Its time to upgrade it. Let me know bro thanks
For bulk, the best place is actually ebay. As for the Quicksilver wire, there is a guy on here who sells the old quick silver. His name is KHpower....he also sells it on ebay.
are you planning on any ventalation for the x-overs? I have seen some get hot enough to melt the plastic case because there was not any air going over the vents.
I know I am nitpicking here, but with all that neat work with your wiring, it's a real pity you don't use spades for all the speaker terminals. I used them on my car and I'm glad I did... they make a really neat impression.
ttocs wrote:are you planning on any ventalation for the x-overs? I have seen some get hot enough to melt the plastic case because there was not any air going over the vents.
I'm actually going to build higher side walls on the floor where the crossover is so I can lay aluminum tubes going across and then lay the trunk mat over top.....should leave enough space for ventilation.
stipud wrote:I know I am nitpicking here, but with all that neat work with your wiring, it's a real pity you don't use spades for all the speaker terminals. I used them on my car and I'm glad I did... they make a really neat impression.
I'm waiting for them to come in......the work I have done so far was only to start testing everything......I will tidy everything up soon and make trim panels as well.
I don't like to use spades unless you are using some high end ones and soldering them, and then it is just too much cost and time for no real gain. I feel that one less connection between the wire and the terminal is one less place to collect corrosion and build resistance later. By later I mean 5yrs + but I like to try and built my systems to last a decade at least..........