1990 Subaru Loyale Wagon Install!

Have a cool car stereo? Post your install pictures here! No PG? No problem! Competition grade or sub-in-box setups: ALL are welcome!
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eulogious
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Post by eulogious »

ttocs wrote:right but you understand that a shunt resistor needs to go in series to the circuit to make the calclulatoin right? It means you have to cut the wire, then insert the shunt and then it will work but you wil loose volts at the shunt.
That's why I don't want a shunt, and I am not going to use one. I am going to use a hall effect sensor, which is "clamped" onto the wire. No cutting, no loss of anything, voltage or amps. I am just saying the general idea and principal on how they work are the same.

I just need more specifics on the products...
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Post by ttocs »

"When the energized Hall device is exposed to a magnetic field from the core, it produces a potential difference (voltage) that can be measured and amplified into process level signals such as 4-20mA or a contact closure"

how are you going to calculate the voltage output the sensor give off into a current or wattage rating with out a calculator?
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.
ttocs
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Post by ttocs »

looking at that article, the one I have is half way down the page listed as a current sencing device.
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.
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eulogious
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Post by eulogious »

ttocs wrote:"When the energized Hall device is exposed to a magnetic field from the core, it produces a potential difference (voltage) that can be measured and amplified into process level signals such as 4-20mA or a contact closure"

how are you going to calculate the voltage output the sensor give off into a current or wattage rating with out a calculator?
The meter should take the input voltage and convert it for me. That was the whole point of comparing the two methods ;) If a "shunt" meter reads a voltage and converts it to amps, and a "hall effect" meter reads a voltage and converts it to amps, one can conclude that you can use the same meter for both applications. You just need to make sure that the voltage is the same that is coming from the shunt/ hall effect sensor and going to the meter.

All I need is the specs on the hall effect sensor to see what its output voltage is, and if it will work with the meter I linked to. If there was a standard, it would be easy to tell, but from what I have read there really isn't a standard for it...
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Post by ttocs »

I am confused, are you going to hook up the hall effect sensor to the dakota digital display?

I am not sure if I would conclude they will work together or ASS-u-me tha they would work. its worth a try as long as its not on my dime....
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.
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eulogious
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Post by eulogious »

ttocs wrote:I am confused, are you going to hook up the hall effect sensor to the dakota digital display?

I am not sure if I would conclude they will work together or ASS-u-me tha they would work. its worth a try as long as its not on my dime....
Again, that's why I need the specs. The specs should list the voltage range and what not, and the tolerance of those ranges. If the voltages are the same, then nothing should happen to the meter...

At only a few bucks a pop, it's not really a big deal if one turns into magic smoke :lol:
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MB Quart RVF-216 6.5
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Post by ttocs »

I did't think they sold the display seperatly, only as a kit with the sending unit? I personally would not colclude they will work together but assume it may, but then you know what assume means right?

if it were me and I wanted the toy I would just buy the toy. Piecing it together seems like a formula for failure. IT might be cheaper if you can get it seperatly and get it to work but it will be hard for you to know if you are getting the correct reading from it unless you hook up a high current amp meter to the circuit.

I got lucky and found my on the bay for $60 shipped!
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.
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eulogious
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Post by eulogious »

Ok, so I heard back from the seller, and the sensor I linked to is for AC, not DC, so it won't work. DC ones are a lot more expensive :?

The meter should be fine. The specs look good on it, I just need to find a DC hall effect sensors.

How did you find yours? And you did get lucky by finding it for $60!
KDC x869
MB Quart RVF-216 6.5
SLD44
white zx450v2
white zx500
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Post by ttocs »

dakota digital makes a kit with everything in it. I never had it on a list of "must haves" but it popped up on ebay a while back. I look forward to putting the SDT display next to it in the stang.
what else can I say I am a grumpy asshole most of the time.
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eulogious
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Post by eulogious »

New box and sub installed!

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Sounds real nice now :) Hit's lower and louder than the fosgate. Looks better too! Not to mention it's PG, the way it should be 8)

One thing down, more to come!
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MB Quart RVF-216 6.5
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white zx500
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str3atwarrior
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Post by str3atwarrior »

Damn it does indeed looks nice! I'd like to hear it!
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