1990 Subaru Loyale Wagon Install!

[eulogious]

Ya, that's right, I am going to install a stereo into my bombass subaru! Well, I am going to start to install it, after I fix my amp. I was running stuff through my head tyring to figure out the best place to but my amp(s), but not take up any valuable space at the same time. I bought a wagon because I was tired of driving a 2 door sports car around, so I want the space! The thing that I came up with is mounting the amp(s) in the small compartment right by the rear hatch, under the rear cargo area carpet.

The dimensions of the compartment are: 37.5"L 11.25"W and then the depth is a little funky: from the left going right it's 3.25" Deep for 12" and then the rest of it is 4.5" Deep. My amp(s) (tantrum 600.4) dimensions are 14.25"L 10"W 2.35"H, so it fits no problem. The other amp I was considering is the rsd1200.1 for my sub that I get eventually. And that's a pretty big amp for sure. It's dimensions are 19.25"l 11 3/16"W 2 3/8"H so it would fit, but it would be super tight. Well nothing that a big fucking hammer can't fix

Then there's the issue of cooling/airflow, so I figured that I would remove the metal door that's on the compartment now, cut back the carpet, and then replace the door with acrylic. Then mount 3 120mm fans (2 blowing out on the sides, 1 blowing in in the middle) into the acrylic for air flow and cooling. Is this enough? Too much?

I am planning on running 0 gauge to the back, and then have a distro block for the amps. That way I am ready for any type of amp I want to get

I guess my question is this, is it a good idea to mount the amps there?

I really don't see any downsides to it. That way the only thing that would be in the cargo area is the one sub, which would be easy to move if I needed the space. I would also place some plywood down on the bottom of the compartment that the amps would sit on as well. Then I could run wires under the plywood so it wouldn't look messy

I guess I am kinda afraid of cooling with both the amps and the tight space. I know my tantrum got HOT, but that was also behind my sheep skin (yes they are real) seat covers with hardly any room between the amp and the back of the seat, so having a fan blowing on it would be more than it got for the last 4 years of it's life

The compartment is sealed from the outside as well, so nothing will get wet. My RCA's my not reach, but I will probably install a line driver if I get a big amp, so I will buy one so I can use that to "extend" my RCA's if they don't reach and not have signal loss.

Is there anything that I might be missing that's critical?

I will take some pics when I get home in the morning (I am at work now) so you can see the compartment and get a feel for what I am talking about.

Thanks all!

[stipud]

Gotta love the early 90's Scoob wagons! Those things are built like tanks!

I believe Me262 has his Ti amps installed the exact same way in one of his Scoob's, and it is fine. I dont think he has any additional cooling either, but of course the Ti amps have built in fans. I would say with a fan or two for airflow the Tantrum should do fine as well.

You might want to send him a PM because I am not sure if he will see this thread.

[eulogious]

I love my wagon! It's getting a 2" lift with 27" M/T's and a roof rack as well real soon! I have also added paddle shifters for it as well. I love my soobie!

I will PM him for sure. I would love to see how he has them installed! Thanks for the tip!

[Pedi]

My father in law has one of theese...

In Norway, these cars are us much appreciated as the Chrysler/Dodge Voyager in USA....

But I am really looking forward to see this install. Let the pics roll...

[eulogious]

Here are some pics:

Here's the compartment I am talking about:




Here's why it's deeper on side than the other...


So this looks like where I will have to drill to get access for my power wire. I think that the bumper doesn't come all the way back, so it should be easy to install some grommets to get the wire through safely...




Same deal with the other side, just it will be the RCA's instead of power.




Here's my HU, and old one but a gooder



I think that I am going to use some MDF and create a custom surround for it, I have just been lazy. But thanks to the phorum, making it should be easy!

So I just found out that I have basically blown both sets of speakers I thought worked, so I am going to get some new ones here eventually Hopefully sooner rather than later. So I was looking at getting the Rsd 6.5cs'. They look like good speakers for cheap Anyway I go it's going to be components. So I am going to mount the tweeters here, and use the tutorial to found on the phorum to make a nice fiberglass thing around it, and make it look all fancy. It should be a fun project...

Here's my "sail panel":



The Speaker:



The cs' are a litte deep than my others, so I will have to probably mount them on the outside of the grill. Should be "simple"

The other door:



Here's just some pics of my roo







I love my roo! I can't wait till I get my rack and bigger tires on it for sure! It will make it look so much better

So that's my plan. Here it is boiled down. I think that I am going to go Phoenix Gold gear all the way. Except for the HU of course Let me know what you all think!

1. Install my Tantrum 600.4 once I get it working.
2. Make a new surround for my HU.
3. Buy new front speakers, then make sail panels for the tweets.
4. Buy new 6x9 for the rears (thinking rsd here as well)
5. Buy a new class D amp (rsd1000.1, or maybe old skool PG stuff, or route 66 )
6. Buy a 12 RSDC and build a nice box for it.
7. Upgrade alt to a 90amp maxima one, the piss ass 55amper in there now can suck my balls. It might just kill it with my Tantrum
8. Upgrade wiring in car to handle new alt and amps
9. Add a cap just for shits and giggles.
10. Enjoy my new stereo in my old skool roo!

Granted all this is going to take some time. I am BROKE right now, so I am just doing what I can with the very little money I have. Come November after my wedding and all that crap, I wil be able to spend some money on myself, so we shall see what happens then

P.S. If any Phoenix Gold marketing guys read this, if you are looking for a new car to show off all your new gear, check mine out! It's primed and waiting for some new gear, and I will even drive to you! :lol:

I gotta at least try

[ttocs]

I think I counted 5-6 grommets inside of that little area you were talking about drilling for power wire and then adding grommets. Why not use the factory ones?

[gridracer]

Yep lots of grommets in there already why make new holes just use the factory grommets that aren't being used anyway by the looks of it.

[NewOldStock]

grommets

[oldschoolfan]

I know this is not the exact model but it sure reminds me of Jackie Chan in Cannonball Run.

[oldskoolmseriesfan]

I know this is not the exact model but it sure reminds me of Jackie Chan in Cannonball Run.

That was a Soobie hatchback, an oldskool "sports car" I believe

[ttocs]

kojac with kodak......

Might have to catch that on netflix tonight.

[eulogious]

I think I counted 5-6 grommets inside of that little area you were talking about drilling for power wire and then adding grommets. Why not use the factory ones?

Yep lots of grommets in there already why make new holes just use the factory grommets that aren't being used anyway by the looks of it.

C'mon guys give me some credit! The grommets on the sides of the compartment cover the bumper bolts, the bumper runs through the space in-between the compartments. The grommets on the back of the compartment only have about 1 1/2" space behind them, and they go to nothing. Well they give "access" to the gas tank, so they are useless as well. So ya, can't use any of them, that's why I have to make new holes

grommets

Is there something wrong with grommets? If there is better way, then please share! I was thinking about running some "electrical conduit" after I drill the holes to add more protection for the wires. Was going to have a buddy of mine weld in some pipe, but the plastic conduit would be easier to install and not get rusty over time. What do all you think?

[eulogious]

I know this is not the exact model but it sure reminds me of Jackie Chan in Cannonball Run.

That was a Soobie hatchback, an oldskool "sports car" I believe

I believe that was the "RX" model. I have that same engine in my car as that one Turbo and all

[stipud]

In a lot of my installs I run the power wire along the frame to the back of the car, then have it come up into the trunk through a grommet. See if you have enough spare room around the fuel tank grommet for that. Sure as hell beats running 0 gauge through the interior!

[eulogious]

In a lot of my installs I run the power wire along the frame to the back of the car, then have it come up into the trunk through a grommet. See if you have enough spare room around the fuel tank grommet for that. Sure as hell beats running 0 gauge through the interior!

That's a good idea, I had never thought of that! I will have to look and see what I got going on under the car and if that will work.

I think that I will take pics of these grommets as well. It's hard to explain what they look like, where they go...

[ttocs]

make sure if you do this, to ensure that the wire is at NO TIME below the frame where it could get pinched between the frame and the ground but I would go tha route as well. Use alot of wire ties to make sure it will not move and you will be fine.

[NewOldStock]

grommets

Is there something wrong with grommets? If there is better way, then please share! I was thinking about running some "electrical conduit" after I drill the holes to add more protection for the wires. Was going to have a buddy of mine weld in some pipe, but the plastic conduit would be easier to install and not get rusty over time. What do all you think?

rofl - heck no there is nothing wrong with Grommets! I was making a joke about how many there were in that little space!

MMMMMmmmmm grommets!

lol!

[Stryker]

Around November? You mean you can't do any of it now?
Not too be a wanker We all like to dream about the things we want. Why start an install thread when there is no installing going on? just curious.....

[gridracer]

Hopefully you get it done during the summer I always hated installing stereos late in the year for me or customers.
1. Summers over you can't hardly enoy the stereo at least I don't drive as much in the winter.
2. Cars are usually dirty and wet if its around that time of year and leave a mess in the shop to clean.
3. If you don't have a shop to work in installing a stereo in the cold driveway sucks. bigtime and you will un-motivated real quick.

[eulogious]

make sure if you do this, to ensure that the wire is at NO TIME below the frame where it could get pinched between the frame and the ground but I would go tha route as well. Use alot of wire ties to make sure it will not move and you will be fine.

I don't think that I am going to run it outside the car. I can't fit a 0 gauge wire through those grommets That and there is no other easy access. Also I plan on doing some light 4 wheeling once I get my lift, so I don't really want anything running under the car. Oh well, I have already run wires from the front to the back of my car, so it won't be hard to do it again.

grommets

Is there something wrong with grommets? If there is better way, then please share! I was thinking about running some "electrical conduit" after I drill the holes to add more protection for the wires. Was going to have a buddy of mine weld in some pipe, but the plastic conduit would be easier to install and not get rusty over time. What do all you think?

rofl - heck no there is nothing wrong with Grommets! I was making a joke about how many there were in that little space!

MMMMMmmmmm grommets!

lol!

Gotcha. I was thinking WTF is he talking about Good times!

Around November? You mean you can't do any of it now?
Not too be a wanker We all like to dream about the things we want. Why start an install thread when there is no installing going on? just curious.....

I would be a tool if that was the case! I should have clarified... I won't be able to COMPLETE ALL of it till about Novemember. I am going to slowly buy my stuff and add it in as I go. This will be an on going install thread By next week I should have my tantrum 600.4 installed and bumping!

The only reason why I haven't bought any install stuff yet, was because I was waiting for my parts to come so I could fix my tantrum and make sure it actually worked. Not having any money, well I have money, just not a lot at all, I didn't want to spend it on expensive wire until I knew I would be able to install something soon. No use buying it now if I can't use it immediately But since I fix my amp up today I will be picking up 17' of 0 gauge wire hopefully this weekend, and then start the install!

Hopefully you get it done during the summer I always hated installing stereos late in the year for me or customers.
1. Summers over you can't hardly enoy the stereo at least I don't drive as much in the winter.
2. Cars are usually dirty and wet if its around that time of year and leave a mess in the shop to clean.
3. If you don't have a shop to work in installing a stereo in the cold driveway sucks. bigtime and you will un-motivated real quick.

I got a garage, small but it works, and I also have my parnets 3 car garage I can use, and a few buddies as well to use, so I shouldn't have any worries about the weather. I by no means have a clean shop or car for that matter, ever! Thanks for the tips though.

I will take some pics I promise, I just spent this morning making my amp work again, so that took up my time More to come...

[Misfire]

In a lot of my installs I run the power wire along the frame to the back of the car, then have it come up into the trunk through a grommet. See if you have enough spare room around the fuel tank grommet for that. Sure as hell beats running 0 gauge through the interior!

About time! I talked to Bogart about this idea too. Glad to see someone else thinks the same way. Running 0 gauge can leave quite the hump if you don't have the side "valley" to run it in. Thanks for the confirmation I am "mad" Stipud!

[eulogious]

Progress! And answers to my own questions

I have been busy acquiring parts for the install, and still been able to do it for cheap!

Here's everything:


Here's my 8" Solobaric that I decided to use out of my MR2 and my cap with a digital volt meter. I figured I might as well get some bumps now since I have a sub and an amp



Here's my 17' RCA's, 40' of 16awg speaker wire, 17' of 0awg for the power, some 4awg to run to my amps, some connectors for 0awg wire, and 20awg remote turn on wire.



Here's some wire loom, and my LPL for my amp to control the bass remotely.



Here's my power distribution stuff for my amps and some fuses as well as the grommets...



My plan is to run my amp in the following config:

Front speakers run off the front channel on the amp under a 4 ohm load (75 watts rms x2) and then bridge the rear channel to run my sub on a 2 ohm load (300 watts RMS x1) and then run the rear speakers off the deck power for now. That will give me plenty of power up front to power the mids and the highs, and then the sub will have plenty of noise to be able to hear it as well. This is basically the same setup I had in the MR2 before I blew the amp, and then gutted it for it's wires.

Then I got all the wires I needed into the wire loom for easier installation.







I have 5 wires in the wire loom now. My RCA's, 2 20' runs of 16awg speaker wire, my LPL cable, and remote power turn on. I am glad I got the 5/8" wire loom instead of the next size smaller! This will make it much easier to run the wires and keep them organized.

Now the answers to my question of wether I can drill through there and if my RCA's would reach...



If you couldn't tell, you can drill through there no problem and my RCA's reached!

More pics!





















I haven't run the power wire yet, but I wanted to make sure it worked with the grommets so I took some pics...







Here's what the amp looks like sitting in there kinda hooked up, to get an idea of what it's going to look like





So ya lots of progress. I got the wood I need to put down as well, so if all goes well I might just have a working amp tomorrow! After I install the power wire I will see where I am at and see if I have time to hook up the amp. That should be fun! In order to run the power wire I am going to remove the fender, good times!

[ttocs]

what kind of rca's?

[Damo95]

The idea of running all your wiring thru the loom tubing is a good one..

i like it... might adopt that in my car...

coming along nicely there!!

[stipud]

Front speakers run off the front channel on the amp under a 4 ohm load (75 watts rms x2) and then bridge the rear channel to run my sub on a 2 ohm load (300 watts RMS x1) and then run the rear speakers off the deck power for now. That will give me plenty of power up front to power the mids and the highs, and then the sub will have plenty of noise to be able to hear it as well. This is basically the same setup I had in the MR2 before I blew the amp, and then gutted it for it's wires.

My only concern here... bridging the sub to 2 ohms especially in a poorly ventilated area is probably not a good idea. Don't forget bridged 2 ohms is equivalent to 1 ohm stereo. Your amp is only rated for 2 ohm stereo and 4 ohm bridged. While it should be able to handle it for awhile, you may very well end up damaging the amp again. If this is the same setup you were running before, odds are that is what caused your very problem.

Also with 1 ohm stereo on the rear channels and 4 ohm stereo on the front you have a high load imbalance that will draw much more power to the rear of the amp. The power supply of the amplifier provides enough power for all four channels going full swing, but with a load imbalance like this you risk unloading all four channels worth of power supply through only your rear channels. End result: fried transistors.