Phoenix Gold Phorum

I put together this prototype rack for my shrouded M units. I will run all drivers active and this setup will provide 9 channels. Drivers will be Boston 6.53, but without the BA XOvers - subs are also BA 10.5LF units. I can do two or three.

This rack is custom fit and the "front" will be entirely exposed to the cabin when the fold down seats are open. This will allow for "in cabin" adjustments and also provide a bling factor.

Each "tray" slides forward and there is about 3/4" of clearance between trays. With the shrouds, I don't anticipate cooling to be an issue. I used standard kitchen drawer slides from Home Depot. They are capable of holding 75 lbs each and are solid even when extended. Of course they will be "locked" closed when vehicle is in motion. The top 2 sets will be changed to shorter units that will not protrude out the rear.

I'm just in the design stage and am open to feedback - positive, negative or otherwise. Thanks for your time and comments.

Bruce

Seems good to me!

Very cool. Which of your cars is this going in?

Who cares about your rack, its those Boston 6.53s which have me interested!

Rack idea looks cool so far though.

ig you going to put the slated section to the seat back yo uneed to consider the cables and the RCA's specifically , be sure they do not rpotrude too far or are in any way bent as this will place strain on the boards.

its a cool idea but not to show all those hot m amps is a shame.
To bad you could not get it in plexi or metal so its looking like the items are floating to show them all
very good idea for space.

I'll mock it up in the car, '95 Super Coupe, and take more pix.

Standby....

Oh, it's raining. I can't fix the stairs, mow the lawn, wash the cars, weed the garden or anything like that. I guess today is fuck with your gear day............

HH

Here's what I've built for Boston 10.5LF subs. I have the custom triple built, but will also try out singles in separate enclosures. OD are 12.5 X 12.5 X 10.0 - BA's recommendation. I'm curious to hear the difference between 2 and 3 subs. Using just 2 would free up some trunk space as well.
I used spiked nuts to ensure a tight seal and the screws can be removed as often as needed without compromising the MDF, especially during the build itself. Highly recommended.

Eric D wrote:Who cares about your rack, its those Boston 6.53s which have me interested!

Rack idea looks cool so far though.

Eric,
Here's the 6.53 units already mounted to templates that allow factory cavities to be used. They won't be seen though. I won't be using the x-overs as they are massive and I have enough channels to go completely active. Again, I have a few options for the subs.

HH

Here's an in-car mock up. I gotta pretty decent sized hole ....

Trays will be lockable in closed position. Outta sight with the seat up.

Rear view. Remember, the tray slides will not protrude outside the rack.

With twin M44's, I think it looks too busy and lopsided as they have to be offset due to tray width. More options in next post.

The sub box will be X2 or the triple. The triple box is the same width as the rack and would snug right up. Bridged M100 for horsepower.

Two additional options, but I lose two channels and a shroud in the process. Not a huge deal, but I was trying to get three shrouded M's in a single system ....

An M50 or M25 vice M44. These would be driving BA 6.5LF units. As a component set, they are rated to handle 500W, so driving 50-80W into each 6.5LF on it's own should be adequate and safe. Sandwiched between a pair of Eq215x's makes for a more symetrical look, which I prefer.

A pic of the ride.....

Stip,
I'm old and stuff. Can you please move this thread to where it should be under Installs? Thanks.

HH

Not a bad install for a hoser, eh! My only concern about those drawers is rattling. If not the boards themselves, then the rollers in the sliders. Also, what happens if you brake hard? Will the amps slide out and thunk against the seat?

Those milspec terminals are absolutely nutty!

i really like that! and i think its the first time i have seen 2x4's successfully used in a install!


the chice with the m50 looks the best...but a cooled m44 seems like it would provide the most adequate power..

i dunno man you're gonna have to do some soul searching on that one.

what if you made another slider that came out above the sub boxes in the trunk?

I hear you guys and thanks for the ideas.

I wanted to use some of the gear I have in a period ride - mid '90's. I made a list of things I would like to have and worked from there.

- Go a little over the top, not onecrazycivic's top, but slightly rude.
- Use shrouded M Series - make sure of fresh air supply - fans can pull air frmo the entire trunk cavity.
- Use a pair of Eq215's - These also have a DR port to delay amp power up.
- Show off the hardware - only need this when car not in motion - Here I came up with sliding tray design. Each piece can be shown, but not all at once. To show everything would take up too much usable space. This is a seasonal driver and is used for overnight road trips so storage space is a factor. Here I get half a large trunk and a complete rear seat area.
- Secure when car in motion - tray locking mechanism - steel pins through slide rails? TBD
- System to be hidden when needed - seats fold up and nothing in view for scumbags etc.
- Access to amp/processor adjustable features from within the cabin - had to place the amps as they are to achieve this. A nice design with EVERYTHING on a single side. Wiring will run through routed slots on each tray's underside and have a flexible harness for tray movement.
- Use Boston Acoustics drivers and subs - everything active - need 7 channels - perhaps 8 for a centre channel. 8th not critical.
- Master cabin control device like a TEq6 or AC Four.1

There's always compromise.

Thanks for any input. I'll draw a system block diagram and signal path flow chart for you guys to beat up.

HH

I think it is a neat design for access but how are you going to finish it? Just a solid cover in back? How about the front? I just can't see it finished yet to give any real feedback......

Very slick HH, anxious to see the final build.

I like those Boston subs. Sometimes I wish I had looked for one for my install.

HoseHead wrote:I hear you guys and thanks for the ideas.

I wanted to use some of the gear I have in a period ride - mid '90's. I made a list of things I would like to have and worked from there.

- Go a little over the top, not onecrazycivic's top, but slightly rude.
- Use shrouded M Series - make sure of fresh air supply - fans can pull air frmo the entire trunk cavity.
- Use a pair of Eq215's - These also have a DR port to delay amp power up.
- Show off the hardware - only need this when car not in motion - Here I came up with sliding tray design. Each piece can be shown, but not all at once. To show everything would take up too much usable space. This is a seasonal driver and is used for overnight road trips so storage space is a factor. Here I get half a large trunk and a complete rear seat area.
- Secure when car in motion - tray locking mechanism - steel pins through slide rails? TBD
- System to be hidden when needed - seats fold up and nothing in view for scumbags etc.
- Access to amp/processor adjustable features from within the cabin - had to place the amps as they are to achieve this. A nice design with EVERYTHING on a single side. Wiring will run through routed slots on each tray's underside and have a flexible harness for tray movement.
- Use Boston Acoustics drivers and subs - everything active - need 7 channels - perhaps 8 for a centre channel. 8th not critical.
- Master cabin control device like a TEq6 or AC Four.1

There's always compromise.

Thanks for any input. I'll draw a system block diagram and signal path flow chart for you guys to beat up.

HH

Does any of this help with the install?

motorizing it would be one way to keep the drawers locked in place, looks like you could squeeze the actuators under the drawers ont the side so they would not be seen, but they are not cheap but you would not need a heavy duty one...

very nice rack....I hope you have good A/C ...thats alot of M you got there in 1 spot....

I would swap them stock fans out for some higher rpm and more CFM ones on the shrouds.... I have a set of 7200rpm ones here ...only problem is ...they are a hair louder than my stereo

Bruce, looks great! Love the Sc's as-well. Thanks for the pics!

Hosehead..

i was just looking at the pics in your first post..

I'd do that initial design you had... An M44 & EQ on the upper 2 shelves.. this could easily determine which is left, and which is right by the location of the EQ..

Maybe mount the M100 to line up with the top M44, and mount something next to it on the bottom shelf (line driver, etc) so it looks similar in layout to the other 2 levels..

love the design though, i think it works well!! and of course could allow for installation of fans to the side of the rack doing a push/pull arrangement..

I like it. One of my favorite styles of installs.

Or I could go this Ti route ....

500.4 / 600.2
DEQ / DD10
1200.1 / BCube

Bruce