Phoenix Gold Phorum

So this may take a little while, i now have everything i need except for the XS series links. (oh well) I plan to dynamat the car first, after i fix a few leaks then i will design 2 kicks for the cabin. I will attempt my first fiberglass project. I will then design the front trunk to hold my 2 rsd12's and then i will layout the rear trunk with the three amps. I plan on keeping the pld1 up under the dash and the eq215i between the seats (center console).

List of whats in this build....

Alpine 9887
Pld1
EQ215i
XS 2500
XS 2500
XS 4600
DD5
lpl44
rsdc 12 2
rsdc 12 2
rsd 65cs

all of this to go into my 1973 porsche 914.

i will post some pics as i go. This thread has officially started

the diagram

The only thing I'd change is where the Alpine goes to the PLD1, I would move that. I'd do full output to the EQ215ix, from there the fronts to the 4600 and the sub out to the PLD1. You can use the LPL on both subs by plugging that into the EQ215ix and have EQ control over the subs.

You wouldn't even need the PLD1 as the EQ215ix has a built in line driver.

I had a lot of fun taking apart all of my equipment last night. sorry the pic is dark, my wife was sleeping 2 feet from where i was working.

i am going to refinish all the equipment to match. NO MORE GREEN

Next step is to strip the bodys and figure out how i want to refinish them. Meanwhile i just got my shipment of second skin damplifier, overkill, and luxury liner. I can make this porsche into a luxury ride

Hey Joe sorry I was unable to find anymore XS links for you I cleaned out the local shop of all they had already. Next time I go to Regina I can check the shop there and see if they got any left. Whats the max you would pay for them plus shipping.

gridracer wrote:Hey Joe sorry I was unable to find anymore XS links for you I cleaned out the local shop of all they had already. Next time I go to Regina I can check the shop there and see if they got any left. Whats the max you would pay for them plus shipping.

its all good, thanks for trying. I will be designing this system with 3 seperate amps. it just wasnt meant to be

All housings are off to the bodyshop. They will return Alaska Blue Metallic



Now onto the interior soundproofing....

a quick before shot of everything as i pile it into a box.

you sure you dont want to go with powder coating?
or is body shop into doing powder coating?
or just the liquid paint?
just curious?
m

i want it to look a certain way, dosn't matter to me if its powder or paint. please tell me if i am about to make a mistake with the choice of paint. I figured the amp dosnt get that hot, i am not worried about the paint cooking. what is the advantage to powdercoating rather than automotive paints??

the color i picked is identical to the car, i cannot achieve that with powder.

has anyone eles used this type of paint on their equipment??




p.s. the last paint job (shoot me) was rattle can and it still looked just the same inside and out as the day i painted them

I've painted a m50,m25 and zx350 the same time as my car years ago, it worked out good, looked even better then original. All the white I painted silver, the gold heatsinks with black! I wish I had pix to show, my audio setup got stolen the same week I put it all in!!! They say time heals, my car got robbed back in '02, I'm still pissed!

Paint your amps you will like it!!! make sure you clear coat them too. Also try and paint them at the same time if possible, the colour will match better obviously.

I have had good results from rattle cans and found the finish good enough to collect some compliments on and ask which shop did it. But I do not think anyone will disagree that a properly done powder job will be more durable as they are but if you need a specific color matched to your car I would probably go with paint.

I've always had good results with rattle can action. just dry throughly between coats and always do a couple of clear to finish it and looks amazing. proper stripping prepping is always the key

thanks for the replies

I didnt get very far, but i started yesterday. I got the seats out, center console, carpets, backpad, and the rear trunk as much as i could remove in 2 hours. It dosnt look pretty, but i am not done yet

I still have the front trunk to do as well as door panels and targa bar. the pedal cluster needs to come out, its a little funky because of a leaky rear window glass.

I will have to replace the rear glass seal before anything eles.

jsayre914 wrote:i want it to look a certain way, dosn't matter to me if its powder or paint. please tell me if i am about to make a mistake with the choice of paint. I figured the amp dosnt get that hot, i am not worried about the paint cooking. what is the advantage to powdercoating rather than automotive paints??

the color i picked is identical to the car, i cannot achieve that with powder.

has anyone eles used this type of paint on their equipment??

Don't worry, paint will be fine.

The main advantage of powder in this sort of application is it's ability to get into the depths of the heatsink 'grooves' better.

Highly simplified - paint goes where you point the gun, but due to the electrostatic charge used powder 'wraps around' complicated shapes.

Providing your paintshop know what they're doing you should be fine. I'd be using a mini-gun at very low pressure to reduce blow back (the air coming from the gun creates a high pressure area between the fins so the paint simply blows back out).

With something like that I think you'd be fine, but with the deeper finely spaced fins on for instance an M series, you'd struggle with paint, and powder would be almost a necessity (unless you're as good as me, lol )

slow going, i have not had a lot of free time, and i found out that my car came from the factory with a thick layer of tar on the floors

I spent a few hours torching and scraping, and i am only half way done. But it will pay off in the end

Nice clean surface to stick sound deadener down to... oh wait...

I'm guessing that "tar" is factory deadener.....could've just laid down some new stuff over top and used heat gun to get it to adhere better.

I think it was a better idea to remove the tar and see that there is no rust under it.

it very much needed to be removed, 30 years of water was trapped under there It wasnt as bad as i thought, but it will sparkle before i put the second skin down.

here is a good example of why it needed to be removed

put down a good primer with a rust inhibitor first.

Finally, foreward progress. I just got some pics from the shop

I miss the old green color

are you gonna put any pg logos in paint or decals on there?

i am still working, but there is no fine line between building a great sounding system and rebuilding this little car from the ground up. My sound deadening project has turned into a long rust removal project, and then a paint project and then finally back to a sound deading project.

i will keep you guys posted.

i am not sure what logos i will badge the amps with untill i get them back from the shop and put it all back togeather. I need to see everything to be able to answer that question

and i am praying that i remember how to put all this stuff back togeather

Like the choice of that blue looks good.