Phoenix Gold Phorum

Well finally got me some new subs so I can get my Xenon 200.2 and BassCube into my car. Got a pair of the old school Soundstream SPL12's. Got 1 sub now, just waiting on the other sub and some PG ARx series cables to arrive.

Messing around with Paintshop this morning to draw up a schematic of my system that I was gonna post with my pic's, but after spending 3 hours on it I'm itching to post it now. Will get the system pics up in a few weekends when I get everything else.

that should be awesome


fyi almost all pg rca's are "Arx" arx is the part of the part number that means rca.

the next part of the number is the series and length (example ARX.750) would mean that it as a 7 series rca that is 5 meters long

Already have Arx.830 gonna run from my HU to the BassCube and ordered 3- ARx.610 to connect everything else with.


Is there gonna be much difference between my 800 series cables and the 600 series that I ordered?? The 600 series was all I could find in the shorter length

there cold be a color difference (blue and green) but im fairly certain the 8 series is just the 4 conductor version of the 6. they are both listed as gold level

Just bought me a Onyx 200.4 cover from Phil now all exposed equipment, except for the cap, will be black

Cap + Krylon = black

Ok the general appearance of my install is the same but there are quiet a few equipment changes. I have realized that all of my install pic’s are on Soundbuggy and I have never put any here so I’m gonna show some old stuff as well as what has changed.

First off one of the important things with my install is that it does not permanently modify my vehicle other then a few screw holes. You can completely remove the install and return the vehicle it to its original condition without buying any replacement parts at all.

I have Stinger brand 0ga power wire running from my battery back to my trunk, from there it goes into a Stinger distribution block and turns into 2- 4ga wires that go to my amps and an 8ga that goes to my DD5. You may note the other 8ga power wire running out from my distribution block, this connects my cap to the system. Instead of wiring the cap between an amp and the distribution block I wired the cap off of the distribution block by itself so the entire system benefits from it. (Hence in my forum signature my comment about a PG cap holding it all together). I know it probably should have 4ga wire going to it but my Distribution block only has 2- 4ga outlets, and as most of you guys know, caps really are not necessary. The system is grounded through the Stinger distribution block that is wired with 0ga wire to a Stinger grounding plug bolted below the sub box.














For power distribution I let the DD5 power / ground everything but the amps. Even the Head Unit is powered / grounded by it, this way everything in my car is grounded at the same location.







The enclosure is a sealed enclosure with a internal volume of 2.2 cu/ft, it is made of ¾” MDF and anchored to the spare tire well with a bolt going through the bottom and threading into the hole for the spare tire hold down.












The EQ30 is mounted on the drivers side of the trunk, this part has changed a bit from how it previously was, I moved the EQ up an inch and a half so it wouldn’t be cut off right across the gains anymore.


Old pic




New pic



I know its still not completely exposed but I can not move it up that far and this is an improvement.


The signal goes from my Alpine Head Unit





To my BassCube, from the BassCube to the EQ30, out of the EQ30 to my Xenon 200.2 that powers my Polk db series components and then from the output of the 200.2 to the Xenon 200.4 which Is powering my SoundStream SPL 12’s.


The BassCube and fuse block are mounted to a ½” piece of MDF which is attached to the bottom of my trunk with double sided tape. When I originally built the install I did not plan on putting a second amp down here. To make room for the 200.2 I was unable to put a mounting board on top of my BassCube and Fuse block. I placed a towel over the top of the Cube and fuse block to protect them from scratches and placed the Xenon 200.2 directly on top of them. This allowed approx 2 inches of free space for airflow between the 200.2 and the board that the 200.4 mount too.






Here is a picture of my Onyx 200.4






The 200.4 is running 8ohm mono to my 2 Soundstream SPL 12’s

Damn that looks good!!! That is almost the exact setup I am going for. I need more pics of the sub box and amp rack please!

That's clean man. Did you get the carpet locally? I need some that color for my box and amprack. You should bring it over to Mel's someday so I can hear it and see it in person.

Cool install man.

Looks awesome I need to spend the time to redo my install so it can look clean like that. mad props!

nice . very nice

OK, stupid question. Why did you go with one signal path, from the HU to the Bass Cube to the EQ so on and so on? Why not 2 seperate path ways, one for the sub and one for the front stage? That is what I planned on doing so I was just a little curious.

Easy answer.

In the past after just installing the system with my EQ230 and Route 66 I played hell with system noise, hense why almost my entire system is powered / grounded through my DD5. My system is now noise free and I did not want to do anything that might disturb that.

The single input and output of the EQ30 and BassCube allows for a nice easy inline installation of thoes items and the output of the 200.2 to the input of the 200.4 allowed for the total combined length of signal cables to be at a minimum. By my thingking the more wires you have the more chances of noise and if you get noise the less wires you have the easier it is to find it.

tsonka wrote:Easy answer.

In the past after just installing the system with my EQ230 and Route 66 I played hell with system noise, hense why almost my entire system is powered / grounded through my DD5. My system is now noise free and I did not want to do anything that might disturb that.

The single input and output of the EQ30 and BassCube allows for a nice easy inline installation of thoes items and the output of the 200.2 to the input of the 200.4 allowed for the total combined length of signal cables to be at a minimum. By my thingking the more wires you have the more chances of noise and if you get noise the less wires you have the easier it is to find it.

Fair enough, I also have a DD5 that I will be using, and a TLD66 so hopefully I won't run into any ground noise issues. Any more pics of the actual build process?? I was going to make my box out of fiberglass, but now you have me reconsidering that.

As for more pictures I have a few, I took more when the box was being built but have lost the disc they were on. Ill post what I have on my PC though

The box is a standard every day sealed enclosure that is secured at the bottom with a bolt.

If you look at the 6th picture down there is that long piece of MDF laying over the front part of the spare tire well. That is my amp rack, its just carpeted and had some holes cut in it to run the wires through. The top part of the install is a sheet of masonite that was cut to match the sides of the trunk floor, the box supports the front of it and there is a brace attached to the back part of the trunk just below the trunk latch striker to support the back part of it. Kind of a simplistic approach to it but thats all that was needed and there is a whole lotta open space under there for air flow.








Ill try to dig up some more for ya