And So It Begins.........Again...

Wrennagade · Post by **Wrennagade** » Thu Dec 20, 2012 7:14 pm

like 2x4 or 4x4 "pillars"?

Post by **ttocs** » Thu Dec 20, 2012 7:39 pm

well I would start small if you are mounting them so you can always add more. Might be easier to use some quart sized water bottles(sealed obviously) just temporarily to see how much space you need to take out. After that you can calculate what size wood you need.

Wrennagade · Post by **Wrennagade** » Thu Dec 20, 2012 7:45 pm

Hmmm. sounds good. yeah the sub just isn't producing the power I would expect it to put out with the 1200. it's running both coils straight to the amp, not bridged or anything as I believe that will cut down on my power. I'll fill it with peanuts to see how much air I have during x mas break & go from there. thanks man you've really been I big help,
Wrenn

00goobs · Post by **00goobs** » Thu Dec 20, 2012 8:10 pm

Are you using a 500.4 to power that thing (elite 12)?

A lot of bracing goes a long long way...

Hello from my IPad!

Wrennagade · Post by **Wrennagade** » Thu Dec 20, 2012 8:25 pm

running it off my 1200.1ti the 500.4 is for doors

dvnt88 · Post by **dvnt88** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 6:07 am

Dude ...wire the sub for a 2ohm load and the 1200.1 will easily put out 1400wrms+ which is plenty to drive the sub. As far as removing some of the air space the bracing sounds like the the best idea. Make sure to check all your settings on the amp and if all is well you may want to add a line driver to give tha amp the best / cleanest signal without clipping. Just my .02c.
And yes ...I do understand that wiring each coil directly to the amp will produce the same load, but the TI's seem to be a little pissy when it comes to wiring them up properly, again, just my .02c from experience running several applications using the same set up.

Wrennagade · Post by **Wrennagade** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 7:57 am

Alright, I'll bridge to sub down to 2 ohms & sees how that sounds. as far as the settings on the amp, I'm just playing with em to get the best sound

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 9:57 am

my only concern with it running in stereo to a DVC sub is if it he signal is a true mono signal? You might try disconnecting the rca's at the amp, plug a Y-splitter into one and use the singal signal from one side to drive them both to be sure. If by chance your sending it a stereo load you could be limiting your power when the coils should be going different directions causing them to cancel each other out.

Wrennagade · Post by **Wrennagade** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 1:26 pm

so the way I have the sub wired is both positives are bridged on sub then go to amp & both negs are bridged then run to amp. I think this is what dvnt meant which is how it's been wired from the start...

Post by **ttocs** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 1:53 pm

that is bridged then so my question about a stereo signal would not apply. Try taking some space out and see what happens.

Wrennagade · Post by **Wrennagade** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 4:46 pm

So here's a dilemma I've encountered at least 3 times. I'll be playing music at a moderate level & all of a sudden the amps will shut down. They aren't enclosed (yet) plus it's cold outside so overheating shouldn't be the cause, & all the other components stay on (powercore, DD10) after some time the amps will kick back on. Any thoughts on this occurrence?

Post by **ttocs** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 5:43 pm

does your amp have a thermal led that would light up to tell you if its shutting down for temps?

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 7:29 pm

My ti800.1 did the same thing for quite awhile. It tuned out to be I had improperly wired the subs. It was loaded at 1 ohm not 2ohm.

Wrennagade · Post by **Wrennagade** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 8:36 pm

Yeah, they're all the older Ti amps & I didn't see the thermal indicators go on-the amps just turned off completely. I also saw that my 100A breaker tripped while I was at the headunit messing with the fader...I reset the breaker & everything fired up fine. I'm wondering if the two Optimas just aren't enough(?) but it has happened while it wasn't really cranked up too loud.

Wrennagade · Post by **Wrennagade** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 8:59 pm

Here's how it's looking so far. I still need to do the peanuts to get a cubic ft. measurement of the box. There will also be painted boxes covering all the amps/core/DD10...

...today I wired up all the doors & installed the Bass CUBE, more pics will added soon.

Wrennagade · Post by **Wrennagade** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 9:16 pm

Here's how the Elite is currently wired up, I looked at some diagrams from crutchfield & I believe this is wired into 2 Ohms

Drock · Post by **Drock** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 1:34 am

Maybe put a meter on the coils. Just to double check they are good. I just remembered that I had pulled my subs out when my amp was shutting down the same way. On top of having the 1 ohm load ( which should not have been a big deal) I discovered that one of the coils was gone. I was running two ti10d4's, although they were both working the amp would shut down when I tried to push them. Once I changed out that sub and went to a 2 ohm load, the amp performed perfect and has not shut down a single time.

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 5:08 am

what type of funiture was sacrificed for the wood? better hope the wife doesn't notice its gone.....

That should be a bridged 2 ohm load that the amp is seeing if they are dual 4 ohm coils. As he said I would test the resistance/impedance of the speakers but just do it at the amp. With the power off disconnect the speaker wires and test it there and it will also allow you to see if there is any problem with the speaker wire which could cause a problem if it shorts. Don't be suprised that when you slap the meter on it that it does not show exactly a 2 ohm load as the nominal impedence the meter will see is always different from what the rating is. For a 4 ohm speaker I have seen the meter read from just over 3 ohms to almost 5 ohms depending on the driver.

dvnt88 · Post by **dvnt88** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 6:32 am

Wrennagade wrote:Yeah, they're all the older Ti amps & I didn't see the thermal indicators go on-the amps just turned off completely. I also saw that my 100A breaker tripped while I was at the headunit messing with the fader...I reset the breaker & everything fired up fine. I'm wondering if the two Optimas just aren't enough(?) but it has happened while it wasn't really cranked up too loud.

Dude ...if your runnin' a TI1200.1 and 500.4, the 1200.1 requires a 120a fuse and the 500 requires a 60a-80a fuse depending on the load (60a for a 4ohm load and 80a for a 2ohm load per channel) So tripping the 100a breaker will be a constant. Check for gremlin power wire shavings as it doesn't take much to short something and make sure your sub is wired as follows for a 2ohm load to the 1200.1.

http://www.jlaudio.com/header/Support/T ... ers/287544

Wrennagade · Post by **Wrennagade** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 9:56 am

So I set the meter to ohms & check amp with power off? Any links so I do it correctly?
The breaker is just before I get to the 2nd battery, then batt to core.
Also, the amps are running from the powercore, I thought it best not to fuse in between-but I will if I should.

Here's what it looks like minus the Bass CUBE & Elite LEDs

Post by **ttocs** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 10:21 am

Ti amps are not internally fused so it would be a good idea to add them.

Turn the radio off.
Disconnect the subs speaker wires from the amp.
set your meter to read resistance(ohms) and touch one side of the meter to one wire, one to the other. +/- doesn't matter. Its not hot so while you are not sweaty sometimes if you are holding the wires tight enough to the meter leads your reading can be off a little bit. If you don't have clips on the meter, take the point and insert it into the end of the wire so that it will stay in with out you holding it.
read the nominal resistance. As I said above the nominal(measured) resistance is normally different from the rated resistance so let us know what the meter reads and we will see if it sounds right.

Wrennagade · Post by **Wrennagade** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 10:36 am

Cool, I'll do this in a bit, I wonder if the fuse issue is why they're shutting off since it's just the 2 amps doing it-when the breaker tripped, EVERYTHING shut down...

LowandLoud · Post by **LowandLoud** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 10:37 am

Looks pretty good but im wondering why the circuit breaker and a fuse in the same wire? I am wondering if the breaker wouldnt be better between the yellow top and Powercore? Also, i agree it is too small of a breaker. Seems it should be around 180-200A.

I like how it all looks lit up. Good job on collecting all the matching equipment.

LL

Wrennagade · Post by **Wrennagade** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 10:41 am

ttocs said fuse 12 inches from each battery so I thought this is what he meant

Starunit10 · Post by **Starunit10** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 11:39 am

I am curious, did you fuse from the powercore to the amps? Should this be done ?