Phoenix Gold Phorum

So when I first got into the car audio scene, this is what I had:

Eclipse AVN2454 w/ Rearview Camera Head Unit
TI6 Elite Component Set for the Front Kickpanels - Passive
TI6 Elite Component Set for the Rear - Passive
TI400.2 per TI6 Elite Comp. Set (2 x TI400.2s)
2 x Infinity Kappa Perfect 12Ds
Kenwood KAC-X621 Amp powering Infinity's
TI Powercore 15 capacitor
180 Amp HO Alternator

This went through a couple of modifications a couple of times, but it was the most consistent system I had. Now I'm changing and not sure exactly what to do... yet (nor have I had time because of work to really install everything how I want it).

What I have right now for new system:
Eclipse AVN2454 w/ Rearview Camera Head Unit
180 Amp HO Alternator
Optima Yellow Top Battery
2 x TI6 Elite Sets
2 x TI9s
2 x TI12D Elites in 3.2 cu ft. Sealed Enclosure
2 x Xenon 200.4s
2 x TI400.2s
1 x TI800.1
1 x TI Powercore 15F
1 x Cadence DCA-2500
1 x TLD66
1 x MA Audio HK2X 2 Ch. Active Crossover

My Plans:
TLD66 to power up HU signal from .2V to ~8V
Cadence DCA-2500 powering 2 TI12D elites @ 1250w/sub
Run 1 of the X200.4s with HK2X to power the front TI6s Active (200w/woofer, 150w/tweeter)

Not sure:
Run the other X200.4 front channel on rear TI6 Elites Passive and rear channel on TI9 Elites
--OR--
Run the X200.4 bridged to the rear TI6 Elites Passive @ 400w/side and Run 2 TI400.2s to the TI9s @ 400w/side stereo
--OR--
Run the X200.4 bridged to the rear TI6 Elites Passive @ 400w/side and Run TI800.1 to the TI9s @ 400w/side mono
--OR--
Run the 2 TI400.2s to the rear TI6 Elites Passive @ 400w/side and run the TI800.1 to the TI9s @ 400w/side mono
--OR--
Run the 2 TI400.2s to the rear TI6 Elites Passive @ 400w/side and run the X200.4 to the TI9s @ 400w/side bridged stereo

Basically, which amp sounds best will go to the TI6s, second best sounding amp will go to the TI9s. Not sure about the power though, if they can handle that much, so I think I'll start with 300~350 for some time to see how they take that before moving on to 400 watts/side.

I'll post pics of the install later, when I start.

Suggestions are welcome (I'll also be asking a lot in the Car Audio page).

EDIT - I might run the rear TI6s active if I really love the sound of the fronts active, or I might run the fronts passive if I hate the sound of them active... I'll update when I set them up and hear them.

i would go with option A.

the crossovers on the xenon will make running them together a breeze because you can run high and lowpass to the 9's and highpass to the 6's

dude...how are you fitting the 9-6-1 set in there?

(i have some 97 maxima installs in he install section if you need any ideas or help taking apart stuff)

Bfowler wrote:i would go with option A.
the crossovers on the xenon will make running them together a breeze because you can run high and lowpass to the 9's and highpass to the 6's

That's true, but maybe not enough power to keep up with the front set and subs?

Bfowler wrote:dude...how are you fitting the 9-6-1 set in there?

9s in doors with custom mount (have Kicker SSMB8s in there right now), and 6-1s in kickpanel with custom mount

dude...pics...i would love to squeeze a dedicated mid in my bro's car but decided against it after i saw the electronics behind the kick

is yours an automatic? that might also be where you got the extra room from

Bfowler wrote:dude...pics...i would love to squeeze a dedicated mid in my bro's car but decided against it after i saw the electronics behind the kick

is yours an automatic? that might also be where you got the extra room from

I'll post pics as soon as I get a chance, just that I'm so busy with work and I get home crazy late. I can be online while I'm at work though, so I get to post these up, lol.

I'll prob have pics up by next weekend, when I plan on working on my car.

I have an automatic, but there were some electronics in the driver side kickpanel, but I moved those outta the way and ziptied them somewhere close to the steering column.

hmmm....just when i thought my bro's system was almost complete.

another question...how did you route the power wire?

i can only fit a 4awg through the factory grommet and didn't see a better one, i would really like to run 1/0 for him...since it sounds like he will be running a x100.2, 400.1 and a 600.1 now!

Bfowler wrote: another question...how did you route the power wire?

Drilled another hole through the firewall... that's what you're talking about, right? I didn't touch the factory hole, just drilled another one, and put some rubber around it (one of those rubber rings that comes with the install kits).

i didnt see a good spot for that...when you get a chance with your trusty camera, maybe you can snap one of that too?

right now his RSDc is a little underwhelming because i'm afraid to turn up his gains running a 100.2 and 600.1 with only a single 4awg.

kickass, i love it when someone with a similar project can help with stuff like that!

I'll get you that pic by tomorrow or hopefully tonight.

Pics of kickpanel 6.5s and firewall hole

Is it just me or am I not seeing a power wire.........?????

I see 3 places but no real power cable......What are ya running to the back? 4g or 0g???

Due to taking the pics above, I got motivated and started on my project... Ripped out all my gear that was in my trunk and started from scratch... 6 hours later, you get that big mess you see on pic 5 below.

FuzzyHoNutz wrote:Is it just me or am I not seeing a power wire.........?????

I see 3 places but no real power cable......What are ya running to the back? 4g or 0g???

Lol, that's what I thought at first too... I had to actually take a second look at the install to make sure that was the power wire... It's the clear one on the far right (the one taking the entire hole - I hardly could fit that thing through there). The other wires are for my car alarm.

It's 0 GA btw.

OK------there it is...... it's hard to hide 0g but that pic has it camo'd... And that's a fukin octopuss of wire ya got going..

It looks good man, keep posting pix as ya go....

Not the best place for a ground. From the looks of it, it's on a thin welded panel. Ideally you want to take something structural, which will conduct well to the front of the car. All of those crappy welds will add resistance. Oh well, try it for now... see if it's sufficient for your amps. I've definitely seen worse!! (trunk lid!!! )

Nice work on the floor! Good idea with the hinged access panel.

i my bro has something right there....if not...drill time! thanks!

i have to ageee with tom on that one...if it works it works...but that part didnt seem as "connected" to the frame.

if it dosetn work, there is a recess in the very corner under the rear seat right before it goes into the trunk that is connected to sub frame, and should have room for your terminal

Bfowler wrote:i my bro has something right there....if not...drill time! thanks!

i have to ageee with tom on that one...if it works it works...but that part didnt seem as "connected" to the frame.

if it dosetn work, there is a recess in the very corner under the rear seat right before it goes into the trunk that is connected to sub frame, and should have room for your terminal

You know, I sat there for an hour trying to figure out where the hell to make the holes for the ground... It seems to be holding up now. It was waaaayyyy worse before when I had it close to the rear bumper... the ground got rusty and from what I saw, sparked a few times. This is why I had about 12V at the back when there were 14V at the battery - that's fixed for now.

cool, another maxima.

So I worked on the car for another 2 or so hours today and I have come to the following conclusions so far:

1. You CANNOT run TI6 elites @ 400w/channel passive. It sounds sooo clear when it on low volumes, but when you raise the volume, it starts heating up the speakers and you start hearing distortion - it then sounds like crap.
2. Kicker SSMB8s are NOT midbass woofers... I've tried so hard to make these somewhat work as my midbass for now and they just don't do it. They start farting when you turn the volume or gains up. I kinda figured with the xenon's "bandpass" filters, I would be able to eliminate frequencies under 40Hz and have them hit the tighter bass... didn't happen, still farting. I then took them outta the car and held one in my hand and connected it to the amp just to see why it's farting. Turns out the cone hits the voicecoil when you turn up the gain and the bass hits. They play really nice mid frequencies, but I have my TI6s for that. In conclusion, I give up on these.
3. The TI6s sound amazing at about 150~175w passive. I think that's the most power you should give them if you're running them passive. I don't have the mids enclosed, so they might sound better with more power if you enclose them... this might be a future project.

Tomorrow, hopefully I get my TLD66 so I can put that in and see the difference.

Pics taken from yesterday's trials with the SSMB8s:

How are you tuning it thats making the woofer fart? Maybe yer giving it too much juice........

FuzzyHoNutz wrote:How are you tuning it thats making the woofer fart? Maybe yer giving it too much juice........

The woofer is rated at 175w free air. I give it 100w and it farts. The reason it farts is because the cone actually hits the voice coil - figured this out while holding it in my hand and turning up the gain. It might need to be sealed to have some pressure so it doesn't hit the vc maybe? Either way, I'll be much happier with the TI9s - if they fit in there.

What do you mean? The cone is attached to the voicecoil...

lol, okay then... u got me here (not necessarily a speaker designer here)...

umm, the cone is hitting that yellow thing underneath the cone... I was guessing that was the vc cause that's where the wire goes to from the speaker terminals.

Hrm, that's the vc, huh... I gotta do some more research to figure out exactly how these speakers physically work, when I get time.

If the cone is hitting the spider (typlically yellow acordian looking thing) that means it broke loose. The cone/former should be attatched to that part as well. And should move equally in conjuction with the cone. Without that spyder attatched, it has lost the control of the suspension and probably would make the sound you describe. Pics would help.