Phoenix Gold Phorum

I first want to say Thank You to everyone on this Phorum for taking
your time to answer question and sharring your knowledge..Best car audio Phorum by far....

Heres what going into my 99 Denali.

1-X100.4
1-X200.4
2-X600.1
2-RSDcs 6" front 5.25" rear
1-Tbat1(white)
1-EQ230 (white)
1-MX3i (white)
1-Bass Cube (white)
1-TiDD10
2-Ti ZBB34 Ti ZBB12
1-Ti Ground Block

1-Kenwood KVT-819

2-RE SE 12's boxed tuned to 29hz to get a flat response.
Want accurate bass for all types of music.

1-Powermaster 200amp alt
2-Kinetiks 1400 front 2400 rear

Pwr/grnd Knu klmx 1/0
Speaker Knu klear kable 12ga

First a pic of my girl...




Alt...






Had to use electrical tape to keep the rubber boot in place...




Ground to the frame (batt,alt)...


Runs of cable....The box has feet (1.250") so that the cable would fit underneath.


The Box....With my racing number (it represents my moms b-day)


Base of amp rack...


Mocked w/top on..



Tweets up front...

Tweets down low in the b pillars...


6" up front-used 3/4" for the ring./...oops to big.. need to cut it in half...


Rear doors and liftgate are deadened with dynamat extreme (iirc 32ft)
I havent decided but Im leaning towards Raamats for the rest of the truck.


Gotta go to work for a bit,stay tuned....
Let me know if the pics are too big Ill resize them when I get back.

AL

pictures are great...everything looks like it is coming together just fine!

damn, i want an alt. for my audi that is set at 14.8v like that!

BLACK BEAUTY

thedeal7235 wrote:damn, i want an alt. for my audi that is set at 14.8v like that!

You know you can have your stock alternator wound to whatever ampage you like....there is a seller on Ebay who does it for next to nothing

dBincognito wrote:

thedeal7235 wrote:damn, i want an alt. for my audi that is set at 14.8v like that!

You know you can have your stock alternator wound to whatever ampage you like....there is a seller on Ebay who does it for next to nothing

Ya but how long of a turnaround....? and whats the warranty/guarantee?

You should slap some vaseline over the exposed paint on your ground before it rusts!

Damn that is one black beast!

dBincognito wrote:

thedeal7235 wrote:damn, i want an alt. for my audi that is set at 14.8v like that!

You know you can have your stock alternator wound to whatever ampage you like....there is a seller on Ebay who does it for next to nothing

i hear you db, but whenever ive spoken to any local auto electric companies, once they hear its an "audi", they are like, "yeah, im not touching it", even though the stock alt. is bosch 200amp, but i would really like to be able to maintain 14.0 volts, period, ( the A4 is the same as a passat, but , honestly its been years since ive seen the engine compartment on the passat-meaning for the room etc. of the alt. & pulley, where as on my audi , the alt. is literally an inch from the radiator, if even that much room, its really tight under there, i had to use an 18" extension mirror to finally see the back of the alt. and confirm that it is a bosch-200amp(not valeo, as some audis have)

all im going to say all is we have alot of gear we are installing but thank god its not like this much

http://caraudio.com/forum/showthread.ph ... ost6078412

damn those orion subs are gonna KILL his mpg-but i really think he could care less about that!!!!!!!!!!!imho, sometimes less is more, i only run 2 tweets, 2 6.5, and 2 10 subs, off of 3 seperate amps mind you

thedeal7235
Dude.....if you have a 200 amp alt.....you should be maintaining 14.4 or higher all the time....you do have a second battery in the back right ?

I don't understand why you would be dropping so low....I've used way lower alternators without having a voltage drop at all

when i start up im at 14.1volts, then as notes hit, it gradually goes down to, as low as 13.1v, i have a red top battery in stock location, then 1/0gauge to the back gel battery, then the 4 gauge comes off from there to the fused distro, 1farad cap to the rsd1200.1, then the other two 4gauges to the other two amps-

I think you might need a bigger battery in the back.....what's your total RMS in the car

rsd 1200.1 dialed in at 1400+, 300 for the zx500, and i only use the front on the 475=75 82=150, added all up =1950rms

check out second skin for sound damping. the damplifier pro kicks the hell out of extreme.

this is true. but he will probably want to mass load. because damp pro is expensive.......................

i think he is going raammat bxt. quantity vs quality.
it may not be as good as damp pro. but it better than peal n seal / edead / and regular dynamat. and when u put 2-3 layers on... it does its job.

however if it were my system damp pro for sure

the intro level second skin is still better then extreme and cheaper.

TheDeal - have you upgraded your factory power wiring? IE big 3?

theothermike wrote:this is true. but he will probably want to mass load. because damp pro is expensive.......................

i think he is going raammat bxt. quantity vs quality.
it may not be as good as damp pro. but it better than peal n seal / edead / and regular dynamat. and when u put 2-3 layers on... it does its job.

however if it were my system damp pro for sure

Ah here is my Box Builder (thank you again and for everything) and also my technical advisor..
and all around good guy who has been kind enough to lend his skills
and garage to assist me with this install....

Screen name theothermike but I like MB Box Werkz myself...

More pics....The blocks and dd10 are sitting on acrylic...mocked up.
This display will be elevated with the use of L-brackets (thanks to nico for this idea)



Quick disconnect 90* rca's....I need 8 more (4pairs) of these 90* all gold RCA plugs..Please...



Actually we are trying to make this as modular as possible so that adding to
or removing from it will be done without the use of tools....

Thumb screws and T nuts, and quick disconnects through out.

The L-Brackets are held in place with Thumb screws and T-Nuts
while the speaker kable will be able to disconnect without having
to unscrew at the amp.
The battery terms unfortunately will need an allen wrench to remove but
the good thing is that all 6 pwr/ground cables (3 on each term) can be removed with just one allen bolt on each term.

Mocked up with the x200.4...




The back piece that the L-brackets will mount to
We used 1/4" T-nuts on the back side....


Thats it for today...

Looking great! I'm very partial to the Xenons. One question though: how accessible will the fuse dist. block be??

im pretty sure he used allen wrench hex heads to hold them to the plexi. and there is adequate spacing between the top of the 200.4 amp above it and the board itself to squeeze a wrench in there. or worse come to worse he just loosens 8 bolts on the bottum of the board and removes the plexi to adjust what ever needs to be done.

this is speaking for the big block in the back that is furthest away from what u see

but i expecting he wont need to be swapping fuses out regularly if everything is connected and set right =]

dude, you should incorporate a hinge on the xenon rack, that way it can flip up and you can access the fuse block!

there are reasons why that cant be done...

stay tuned...

ur gonna luv that dd10, such a great piece of equipment, imho-

what is under the dist blocks and such? Battery?

I too was concerned about the dist blocks as I like to keep them easy to get to. I managed to mount both of mine in the center consol of both vehicles to make it easy. The good thing about these is the way they light up so you can tell with an easy glance if it is blown.

Are you going to edge light that acrylic?

One thing to keep in mind (though I am sure you have thought of this) easy to remove for you=easy to remove for thieves. As shitty as that is it is the truth. I know in my last install I made that shit impossible to remove without the right tools, security bits, etc.

Looks good thus far, keep it up.