m25 or m44 power up

nuspec · Post by **nuspec** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 5:23 am

Hello, i have been reading a fair bit on here and must say there is a a lot of old school followers on this forum.

I want to get my car audio going again and although last time i was a little disappointed with the power output i had a question about these two amps i own.

I used the m25 bridged to run a 4 ohm 12" (infinity perfect) and the m44 for fronts (dynaudio) and rears (factory).

The question i know is that it would be better powering the sub bridged from the m44 and use the m25 to run the rears and the last 2 channels from the m44 to run the fronts.

Is it possible anyway to up power the m25 to drive it harder? Ie larger caps, mosfets etc? or even 2 channels of the m44 for the sub woofer output? Or should i really just get out of the m25 and get something like a ms275 for the sub?

The m44 i have owned since new the m25 i got second hand. I know both will need caps and a full over view regardless. It would break my heart to sell them for $50 then spend another 3-400 to get the MS.

I mainly listen to music at reasonable volumes. I am not really into big spl or big bass.

Any help would be great.

masonsjeep · Post by **masonsjeep** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 5:33 am

Welcome along.

A M100 would be an ideal solution for you. Run the sub from that and use the M44 bridged to run your front end and if you want to keep the M25 use it for the rear. The M44 for the sub wont give you much over the M25.

dgoodhue · Post by **dgoodhue** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 5:31 am

IMO I would use the M25 for the fronts, Bridge the M44 for the Sub and get a dual VC sub. Leave out out use deck power for the rear speakers or get your self another amp. Today subs just need too much power for M25 and M44's (even a M50 is on the low side), maybe an efficient ported sub would work. I tried to use a M25 for a sub and I just need a little more, it worked best on the 8" sub I had.

A M25 is 1 x 140 bridged or 2 x 65 watts for 4 Ohm Loads
A M44 is 2 x 105 Bridged or 4 x 55 watts for 4 Ohm Loads

As you can see neither of them is pushing out that much more power bridged. I also suspect the M44 is power supply is holding it back the power output when its bridged. (I bet it puts out more power bridged on one side if the other side isn't bridged and has a light load.) You could try swapping it around if its not too much work.

Thunderdome · Post by **Thunderdome** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 6:28 am

did you have a line driver hooked up? can make a world of diffference

dBincognito · Post by **dBincognito** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 6:41 am

I consider the M25 to be a tweeter amplifier......it will get warm very quickly and is not very ideal for running a sub.

nuspec

The m44 i have owned since new the m25 i got second hand. I know both will need caps and a full over view regardless. It would break my heart to sell them for $50 then spend another 3-400 to get the MS.

We don't charge that much around here for a MS-275

And I would give you more than $50 for your M amps

nuspec · Post by **nuspec** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 6:39 pm

Thanks guys for the input. Bridging the m44 to run the sub (300-350rms) is an idea but running the m25 for the fronts im not so sure.

I have a set of dynaudios for the front an was thinking they would defiantly like more power. I have the mid bass in a seal box in the doors (4-5L) and when it was last going it could easy push more power.

I am running this system on a alpine 7909 without a line driver but i could entertain this if its going to make a big difference. I do know that i was running a fair bit of gain on the amp to get the volume out of the system.

I could convert the sub to a ported box to get more volume. At the moment its in a sealed ~1cube box.

Incidentally how much does a ms amp to run my sub (sealed box) go for these days. Anyone want to swap a m25 for one?

Post by **Eric D** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 8:07 pm

The M25 is a great little amp, and personally I feel it is the best sounding amp PG has produced. My best guess as to why it sounds so great is the minimal parts and lack of unneeded features.

I tend to make odd car audio decisions, but honestly if I were in your position, I would stick the M44 on a dual coil sub, and buy a second M25. Bridge one M25 on the right set of components and the other M25 on the left set. With this much power you may be able to scrap using the factory rears.

Even though the M25 is rated at only 25W per channel, it has enough output voltage to do well over 100W a channel, although this could never be sustained with a tone for example. With a pair of M25s, you could potentially be looking at between 300-400W per side of usable music power.

k2f-gold · Post by **k2f-gold** » Sun Dec 13, 2009 11:06 pm

Eric D wrote:The M25 is a great little amp, and personally I feel it is the best sounding amp PG has produced. My best guess as to why it sounds so great is the minimal parts and lack of unneeded features.

I tend to make odd car audio decisions, but honestly if I were in your position, I would stick the M44 on a dual coil sub, and buy a second M25. Bridge one M25 on the right set of components and the other M25 on the left set. With this much power you may be able to scrap using the factory rears.

Even though the M25 is rated at only 25W per channel, it has enough output voltage to do well over 100W a channel, although this could never be sustained with a tone for example. With a pair of M25s, you could potentially be looking at between 300-400W per side of usable music power.

Hi Eric,
Just checking on this old topic, will the amp gets hot with this output?