15F Powercore DOA

Post by **mhyde71** » Tue May 05, 2009 4:51 pm

hmmmm.

freshkryp69 · Post by **freshkryp69** » Tue May 05, 2009 5:16 pm

put a red top optima under the hood and get a Stinger (odyssey) battery,the sp2150 in the trunk with a AIRCRAFT 5 or 600amps (about $120) solenoid inbetween the 2. placed in the trunk, and use a 30amp bosch relay to switch the main solenoid on and off,which should be actuated by the "ignition" switch when the key is in the run position,and off when the key is out of the ignition...that way you can run the "system" batt dead and the car will start no prob....I had 1 for yrs in the trunk and not 1 problem EVER. when the key is in the run position both batts are linked and being charged by the ALT. 2 batt hooked together without a solenoid will slowly kill the batts as they will try and fight eachother,constantly draining back and forth....

Caps are just a huge waste of cash

, I learned the hard way after spending allmost 600 for 4, 1 farad digital volt top streetwire caps with the cnc platnium buss barrd setup. watching the volt drop with a dmm and the time to recharge the setup VS just the sp1700 battery told me the caps were a huge drain on my system!

Post by **joerg** » Tue May 05, 2009 5:22 pm

freshkryp69 wrote:Caps are just a huge waste of cash

YOU are my personal hero now!

Everybody i told that just laughed at me all the time or gave me that "U don´t know what u´re talkin about" face!

denim · Post by **denim** » Tue May 05, 2009 5:39 pm

Ouch.

dedlyjedly · Post by **dedlyjedly** » Tue May 05, 2009 6:50 pm

Capacitors are very useful and effective when properly implemented into audio systems! Unfortunately, it is a common misonception that capacitors are intended to "beef up" an electrical system that is failing to produce adequate current for upgraded electronics.

Don't get frustrated with and spread your distaste for capacitors when you have failed to use them in an appropriate manner!

This has been discussed several times on the phorum if you're interested in learning more do a quick search.

freshkryp69 · Post by **freshkryp69** » Tue May 05, 2009 7:30 pm

Another way a capacitor is ((IMPLEMENTED))

into a system such as being wired in parallel to a component to filter the power it receives,it can (possibly) help with noise issues...such as when your installing a cd player or MSD 6al etc.. ignition..sometimes all hell breaks loose..so you'd wire a .25f cap inline on the power wires of the MSD or radio...and then majic happends...no noise. this would be the 1 out of the 2 ways to install a cap.

Pedi · Post by **Pedi** » Tue May 05, 2009 10:55 pm

joerg wrote:
freshkryp69 wrote:Caps are just a huge waste of cash
YOU are my personal hero now! Everybody i told that just laughed at me all the time or gave me that "U don´t know what u´re talkin about" face!

Not laughing at you, but I do still not think that caps are a waste of $$...

Post by **smgreen20** » Wed May 06, 2009 2:36 am

After this Saturday I'm not so sure Optima batteries are worth it too. My Yellow top was 4 years old when it decided it didn't want to live anymore this Saturday.

By my count it gave me 8 more starts since I got home from my Concert Friday that was 120 miles away. If it would've gone then, I'd be screwed. Cost me $175 for another Yellow top. Not so sure if I should've gotten another one.

I feel that my stereo would've killed a normal battery a lot quicker. *shrugs shoulders*

Pedi · Post by **Pedi** » Wed May 06, 2009 3:21 am

I prefer Kinetic instead of Optima...

Post by **fuzzysnuggleduck** » Wed May 06, 2009 5:39 am

My RedTop stayed alive for about a month of my truck sitting in my parking spot. That's not a deep cycle either, so that's good in my books.

TiEcs · Post by **TiEcs** » Wed May 06, 2009 5:49 am

I just checked mine, and I think mine is screwed too

When I take of the cover, there is an other protection plate in Ti finish.
When I take that off, I can see like a black plastic rectangular core.
The plastic is broken and looks kind a oily and the is some purple and green stuff.

PS: it's Bert and not Bret

Same spot as Stupid (red arrow) and max 1cm, but the green stuff is hasn't reached the cupper yet.

TiEcs · Post by **TiEcs** » Wed May 06, 2009 5:57 am

mr tibbs wrote:Is that the one I got for you??!! What the hell??

If you would see the seller ever again: please rip his balls off !!

Post by **stipud** » Wed May 06, 2009 6:41 am

joerg wrote:
freshkryp69 wrote:Caps are just a huge waste of cash
YOU are my personal hero now! Everybody i told that just laughed at me all the time or gave me that "U don´t know what u´re talkin about" face!

I disagree with both of you. Caps have a very good purpose, but it takes an extremely well built system to realize it.

I will agree that caps are a waste of cash if your power distribution system is inadequate for your amplifiers. This is what most people use capacitors for... a bandaid for a lack of current. They think that the small power reserve will fill during pauses in the music, and empty on bass notes, thus making up for a power system, which can't satisfy the current wants of the amplifier. However, a farad capacitor will be emptied in milliseconds, and then it will be an additional current DRAW on the total system. This means the amplifier and capacitor are fighting over the power that you already don't have enough of. In this case, capacitors are definitely a waste of money.

HOWEVER, if your power system is adequate to keep your amplifier at the operating voltage, even when loaded down, then a capacitor can be very useful for sound quality. The D/C power that comes from your alternator isn't actually D/C. An alternator makes many out of phase A/C waves, and sums their peaks together to create D/C power. However, remnants of the A/C voltage waves will still be there... this is called "A/C ripple".

Now what a capacitor does is act as a power filter. Look in your amps... they have input and rail capacitance for a reason. Without input caps, there would be too much A/C ripple, and the power supply would struggle to make voltage. Now a 1 farad capacitor offers as much as 20dB of ripple filtering, which is quite substantial. This means your power supply has a much easier time creating stable power for the output section of your amplifier, which would be realized as SQ gains. You would need a VERY good system to hear this difference. I'm talking top of the line gear, ample sound deadening, etc.

If you don't believe me, try it for yourself. Grab an oscilloscope and read the power that goes through your power wires. You will see the signal is quite dirty, and hardly D/C power at all! Now hook up a capacitor and tell me what you see

Edit: and let's please not turn this into yet another derailed capacitor thread. There are many other threads where we have discussed this ad absurdum.

Post by **stipud** » Wed May 06, 2009 6:43 am

TiEcs wrote:
mr tibbs wrote:Is that the one I got for you??!! What the hell??
If you would see the seller ever again: please rip his balls off !!

Wat een mafketel zeg.

I am very sorry your capacitor also has the same issue Bert

Post by **ttocs** » Wed May 06, 2009 6:47 am

I've never owned one, and after seeing this never will.

Wonder what would have happened if you would have hooked it up. Can these explode like a standard cap can? I have seen more then a few really small caps(1000 microfarad and such) in school to know that you don't want to be near them when they go!

Post by **mhyde71** » Wed May 06, 2009 6:52 am

@ Bret you might wanna double check yours also as well as I should check mine- but i dont recall seeing anything quite like that on ours, but i might be wrong... i know there was some but nothing like that...?

dBincognito · Post by **dBincognito** » Wed May 06, 2009 7:00 am

smgreen20
Yellow tops are not for running your car...they are deep cycle batteries

and other than Optima the ONLY good batteries made are made by Odyssey

dBincognito · Post by **dBincognito** » Wed May 06, 2009 7:01 am

Pedi

I prefer Kinetic instead of Optima...

That's funny, you prefer your batteries to have amp limits and the ability to explode

TiEcs · Post by **TiEcs** » Wed May 06, 2009 7:16 am

mhyde71 wrote:@ Bret you might wanna double check yours also as well as I should check mine- but i dont recall seeing anything quite like that on ours, but i might be wrong... i know there was some but nothing like that...?

@Bert you mean

I just checked mine.
It isn't looking like the one of Stupid, but it is broken at exact the same place. The plastic (or whatever is around the core) is broken, looks like if fell on the ground with the corner, and purple corrosion is starting (approx. 1cm). The green corrosion just has started but comes barely out the plastic.

I know you can't do anything about it, I'm not blaming you at all

And I'm shure dthat due to the pics of stupid, we now know were to look exactly.

How is yours?

Post by **mhyde71** » Wed May 06, 2009 7:17 am

TiEcs wrote:I just checked mine, and I think mine is screwed too

When I take of the cover, there is an other protection plate in Ti finish.
When I take that off, I can see like a black plastic rectangular core.
The plastic is broken and looks kind a oily and the is some purple and green stuff.

PS: it's Bert and not Bret

Same spot as Stupid (red arrow) and max 1cm, but the green stuff is hasn't reached the cupper yet.

oh i see you did open it up... ya know i truly do not recall seeing it nor remember it being that bad bert. Of course i wasnt looking for that, but i would have thought i would have red flagged that if i knew what i was looking at. I seem to recall chaking it off as corrosion as you would find on a battery... bet mmine is F*&^$#D just the same.

DOES THIS MEAN IT's not working??? or just not safe to be used?? what does this actually mean??? should i be pullin gthis out of the install?

Post by **mhyde71** » Wed May 06, 2009 7:21 am

TiEcs wrote:
mhyde71 wrote:@ Bret you might wanna double check yours also as well as I should check mine- but i dont recall seeing anything quite like that on ours, but i might be wrong... i know there was some but nothing like that...?
@Bert you mean
I just checked mine.
It isn't looking like the one of Stupid, but it is broken at exact the same place. The plastic (or whatever is around the core) is broken, looks like if fell on the ground with the corner, and purple corrosion is starting (approx. 1cm). The green corrosion just has started but comes barely out the plastic.

I know you can't do anything about it, I'm not blaming you at all
And I'm shure dthat due to the pics of stupid, we now know were to look exactly.

How is yours?

i will pull mine out tonight if i have chance. Not sure if i will or not, but will make that attempt.

TiEcs · Post by **TiEcs** » Wed May 06, 2009 7:27 am

I just wrote a mail to Alumapro, referring to this topic, and asked if they could supply a sollution/option??

The cap15 looks exactly like the PCore

dBincognito · Post by **dBincognito** » Wed May 06, 2009 7:31 am

Alumapro and PowerCore's.....2 funny.......

Post by **stipud** » Wed May 06, 2009 7:38 am

dBincognito wrote:

Alumapro and PowerCore's.....2 funny.......

What's funny? Alumapro made the 15F capacitors for PG.

dBincognito · Post by **dBincognito** » Wed May 06, 2009 7:40 am

stipud wrote:
dBincognito wrote:

Alumapro and PowerCore's.....2 funny.......
What's funny? Alumapro made the 15F capacitors for PG.

I guess the fact that I don't believe Alumapro or PG ever made a 15 or 20 farad capacitor...I mean, I see them.....I know they exist, I just don't believe they are 15 or 20 farad capacitors.