Planning a 99 Suburban Build. Input welcome.

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Sat Nov 07, 2009 1:23 pm

Great forum... I have been lurking for a while and just signed up to become "official".

Well it is time to start the Suburban! It is a 99 K2500 Diesel monster. CK trucks at their finest.

This is not a show car, just for my commuting enjoyment... Also this is the beast that tows my '48 Spartan Manor travel trailer in the summer. Road trips require tunes. Sounds crazy but I like this old Burb more than the wifes Escalade!

The Setup:

- HU: Kenwood Excelon X-993 (Bluetooth and lots of goodies built in)
- with HD200 radio tuner

- ZX350 Front stage: PG RDs65cs components

- ZX350 Rear stage: PG RDs65cs components

- ZX500 Sub Amp: Treo SSI 18.44 2.5 cu ft vented.

- Misc
Monster 1.0 Farad capacitor.
Stinger wires.
Stock 120 Amp alternator
Stock 2 huge batteries for the diesel cold mornings. 1600CCA.

No more planning! Onto the build

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Sat Nov 07, 2009 1:31 pm

FWIW I am an old schooler. Back in '92 I started out rocking the RF Punch amps... I never could afford the PG equipment at the time. For the last few years I have been collecting here and there, but now it is time for an install.

Also the music I play is generally House/Techno, classic rock, and occasionally solid gold country (new country blows). Not much of a boomer at all, just like a full sound.

Back in the day I used a RF Punch 40 DSM to run 2-10" subs, door components, and rear deck 6.5 2-ways. That little guy never shut down and I never had a problem with it. In fact I still have that amp and it works great to this day! The reason I have always liked PG is that back in the day the M series still killed the Punchs!!!

I don't know how much I can add technically here, but I will enjoy reading it

LOL

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:29 pm

Updated the question...

Tell me what sub and Amp please

Just for the record I chose Polk speakers because I like Silk tweeters. Which the RDs line does not have.

Post by **Bfowler** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:09 pm

the rsd line? um they sure do have a silk tweeter! a bitchen one. its the 25mm version of the ti elite speaker. in fact they won 4th best speaker for car audio magazine 2 years ago when they came out! (the polk db's are good speakers too though)

which 1200.1 is the amp?

are those the only 2 subs you narrowed it down to?

i dont think the ed 10 is the best sub for you, and the adire will definitely need more then the m100 to do it justice.

also, signal will be trick running 3 hp stages in the burb. do either of your m25's have a signal output?

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:38 pm

I stand corrected! Thank you for the RDs component info! I will update my system accordingly... This might lead to some cutting of the Burbs doors.

I just have the Brahma and eD 110.v2 sitting here and that is why I would like to use them... Granted the Brahma would be just fine in the HT

Maybe add another eD 110.v2? Push both of them with a M100.

Updated the first post.

>signal will be trick running 3 hp stages in the burb. do either of your m25's have a signal output?<

You will have to explain that sentence to me please. Let me try though:

The Kenwood 993 HU has 6 RCA output (5v I think)
- Front set will go to the M50
- Rear set to the M25 which will power the rear doors and rear roof mount 6x9s
- Sub output will go to the M100.

Also the 993 has a built in adjustable x-over and bass boost. With the HU I can eliminate a lot of extra equipment that I am normally used to dealing with.

As far as I know the M25 does not have a signal output. They are both just Series II standard fare.

Thanks!!!

AAMP217 · Post by **AAMP217** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:50 am

Bfowler wrote:the rsd line? um they sure do have a silk tweeter! a bitchen one. its the 25mm version of the ti elite speaker. in fact they won 4th best speaker for car audio magazine 2 years ago when they came out! (the polk db's are good speakers too though)

which 1200.1 is the amp?

are those the only 2 subs you narrowed it down to?

i dont think the ed 10 is the best sub for you, and the adire will definitely need more then the m100 to do it justice.

also, signal will be trick running 3 hp stages in the burb. do either of your m25's have a signal output?

The Rsd1200.1 is still hanging around. Probably will be until middle of next year.

Post by **stipud** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:41 am

M100 with a Brahma would be a good match I think. Those subs definitely don't need 1000w to sound good. 500w would be perfect if you ask me.

It sounds like your stereo is falling into place nicely...

The only issue with M amps is that you need to make sure the capcitors are replaced. They have a limited lifespan of about 15 years max, and beyond that point they leak electrolytic fluid on the board. After awhile this will short out and burn a nasty hole in your amp. With replaced caps, you will be set for another 15, or more, depending on the capacitors you choose. Technology has come a long way in the meantime, so you usually end up with more capacitance in the same footprint, which generally makes the amp sound better too!

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 1:29 pm

Updated top one more time.

I think it is pretty solid at this point. I agree that the M100 should push the Brahma pretty well, it is an efficient sub from what I understand. The down side is that I will have to run it at 2 Ohm bridged! Ouch.

Good tip on the M rebuilds. I have been giving that a lot of thought as well. I will have to research that, or figure out who can do it for me... Probably who can do it for me, as I would hate to hurt them.

Thanks!!!

Post by **stipud** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 1:59 pm

Talk to Eric D on the forums. He knows a thing or two about replacing caps

http://soundbuggy.com/Eric/Car%20Audio/ ... index.html

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:50 pm

That instructional post is glorious!!! I can do that!

Time to get some proper soldering tools. Mine iron is old and nasty.

Thanks a million!

Post by **stipud** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:08 pm

Be careful. If you rush it, it is easy to strip the vias out of the circuit board. These are metal conductors that connect the bottom to the top of the board, around the hole that the capacitor wires run through. If these are pulled, the cap will not be properly connected, and that causes all sorts of issues.

This method is useful for avoiding damaging them:
http://phoenixphorum.com/power-supply-c ... t8276.html

I used it on my amp here:
http://phoenixphorum.com/ms-capacitor-r ... t9930.html

Also, if you get it too hot, or heat it too long, you can also lift the traces right off the board as well. Having a proper desoldering tool will be a great help.

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:56 pm

Awesome info for amp cap rebuild!

Also I did acquire a Sub amp. The original "D" class amps from MMATS. Brutal power!

Most everything is here or in the mail to me at this point

... Now for those caps!

jbondox · Post by **jbondox** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 11:42 pm

now if only someone can find some cap wrapper that says PG on it...

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Mon Nov 16, 2009 7:58 am

Exactly! LOL

Granted it would probably blend pretty well looks wise if I were doing a MS/MPS install.

I almost went Zapco AX1000.1 because it is very similar to the M series look with the back cooling fins... Just paint it to look like a PG

Sure the D300HC is way too much power for the Brahma... Lets see if I can break it

Actually even with the stupid amount of power I probably will not play it loud enough to even make it sweat.

SQ all the way.

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:30 pm

More updates!

I am switching to the ZX amps. The Ms can stay hidden for a few more years

Sub changed to a 18" Treo. I fully plan on destroying it with the overkill Mmats amp, real output is rumored to be 1745WRMS at 2 Ohms.

I am going to have a hell of a time getting the rear speakers to fit! 4x10s suck. Adapters suck.

On a positive note: I enjoy seeing the mailman come my way with more goodies

Post by **smgreen20** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 12:37 pm

What line TREO is it? SSi, SSX, CSX??????

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 3:45 pm

Sorry I did not specifiy: Treo 18.44 SSi

Should be pretty brutal.

Hopefully next week I can start actually doing something on the truck!

Post by **smgreen20** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 9:54 am

You did specify, my bad, I didn't catch it unless you changed it in your original post.

Don't worry about destroying that sub w/that amp. As long as the signal is clean (not clipped) it'll take that and then some. I know a guy running two 15" SSi's off of 2500 wrms (1250 wrms each, rated at 750) and has been doing so for a few years now w/o any issues. Earthquake shredder 3000 wrms amp. I think that's what he has.

I have two TREO SSi12.22 wired to 2 ohms set at 1200wrms and plan on getting something that does 2000 wrms x 1 @ 2 ohms, if the new PG line will offer something in that class

, which is 33% more power then what they're rated for. Same for the 15s that my friend has.

I'd love to hear it, if only......

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 8:35 pm

Updated for the last time! I am not moving on this setup... Unless I find a Cyclone

Onto the build

I started yesterday and the doors are a real bitch. This will take a while. The dash is completely apart which looks crazy.

Pics to come!

Post by **stipud** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:02 am

You know what I might suggest...

ZX500 on your front stage
BOTH ZX350's on your sub
Run the rear fill off the headunit

Post by **Bfowler** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:23 am

or another idea miught be some kickass stereo separation

zx350 for the left, zx350 for the right!

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 6:26 pm

Stipud, I have considered that. But I figured I would obliterate the RSd components...?

Brain, that is too complex for me