Also posted on DIYMA... the more input the better IMO.
currently the plan is to run 2 10" Dayton HO's in sealed enclosures in my trunk off a Roadster66 - 2-ohm load should give them around 325w each. (650w @ 2ohm load)
However, I am not dead-set on that setup as I have heard that the Daytons are great SQ, but not musical in sealed enclosures
I am mainly going for excellent SQ, but want decent SPL out of the system, because I DO crank it, often. Also, I am looking for something that will hit "the lows" with authority.
With the install I am doing, I basically have 3 choices:
pair of 10" sealed subs - .8cu/ft each
single 12" sealed sub - 1.2cu/ft
dual 12" shallow subs - 0.8cu/ft
the shallow 12's might be a stretch to get to fit, but they are an option...
the extra cone area of the dual 10's makes me lean toward them - though I am wondering how much easier a single 12" will "get low" than a pair of sealed 10's.
once I get the enclosures, I will try and see if I can manage to put a port in them, which would make a big difference, but it would also probably take away too much internal volume - and a port on the outside of the enclosure just wont look good IMO
So...
here is/are the questions
#1 - Single 12" or Dual 10's?
#2 - Based on your answer to question #1 - What sub do you recommend?
Dayton? RSD? RSDC? IDQ? IDMAX?
Price range - similar to the Dayton HO - so 125 - 150 each-ish - or less
I will be buying subs AFTER PG comes out with their new subs... so that is the one curveball.
Thanks for the input guys - all advice is appreciated.
sub selection ...
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NewOldStock
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NewOldStock
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well I will definitely be waiting until the new lines come out, but the RSDC subs look mean as hell ... so yeah, feedback of what it actually sounds like would be great.gridracer wrote:I went with a dual 4 ohm 12" rsdc for my roadster66 system and it probably will be a sealed enclosure. Depending on how long you wait I can give you some feedback when I get it done. I bought it on ebay for $149.95 plus shipping.
my biggest concern about running a single 12 is that it will be in the trunk in a sealed enclosure and those two things will limit its output... but pushing 650w at it might make up for that.
What are you putting yours in? Thanks!
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audiophyle_247
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Enclosure is responsible for 80% of the bass, yet so many people are quick to focus on the sub & consider the box more an afterthought.
Pick a quality sub, and design the enclosure to get the sound you want.
The RSDc is a more than capable sub, and can be quite impressive.
I would recommend a single RSDc 10" or 12" & put it in a quality ported enclosure. The choice between either the 10" or 12" should be determined by the enclosure you can fit, because a 10" in the right box can sound better than the 12" in the wrong box. A low tuned ported box will not only increase the output but will extend the low end bass too. The bass is not just louder, but it will play the lows like you are running a larger sub.
People think subs in the trunk are quieter because it has to travel through the rear seats & such, but the fact is the rear seat is only 1 of the 6 walls making up the trunk, and just happens to be one of the thickest. The problem is you are loosing bass through all of the thinner walls to the outside, not that the trunk sealing off the bass from the cabin. Sound deadener is what you need to use to reinforce those 5 other sheet metal thin walls, no matter what sub system you decide upon. Doing so will aid in keeping the bass in the trunk, where traveling into the cab is the only place it can go.
But thats just my $0.02.
Pick a quality sub, and design the enclosure to get the sound you want.
The RSDc is a more than capable sub, and can be quite impressive.
I would recommend a single RSDc 10" or 12" & put it in a quality ported enclosure. The choice between either the 10" or 12" should be determined by the enclosure you can fit, because a 10" in the right box can sound better than the 12" in the wrong box. A low tuned ported box will not only increase the output but will extend the low end bass too. The bass is not just louder, but it will play the lows like you are running a larger sub.
People think subs in the trunk are quieter because it has to travel through the rear seats & such, but the fact is the rear seat is only 1 of the 6 walls making up the trunk, and just happens to be one of the thickest. The problem is you are loosing bass through all of the thinner walls to the outside, not that the trunk sealing off the bass from the cabin. Sound deadener is what you need to use to reinforce those 5 other sheet metal thin walls, no matter what sub system you decide upon. Doing so will aid in keeping the bass in the trunk, where traveling into the cab is the only place it can go.
But thats just my $0.02.
http://phoenixphorum.com/new-truck-mean ... 12619.htmlNewOldStock wrote:well I will definitely be waiting until the new lines come out, but the RSDC subs look mean as hell ... so yeah, feedback of what it actually sounds like would be great.gridracer wrote:I went with a dual 4 ohm 12" rsdc for my roadster66 system and it probably will be a sealed enclosure. Depending on how long you wait I can give you some feedback when I get it done. I bought it on ebay for $149.95 plus shipping.
my biggest concern about running a single 12 is that it will be in the trunk in a sealed enclosure and those two things will limit its output... but pushing 650w at it might make up for that.
What are you putting yours in? Thanks!
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fuzzysnuggleduck
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I've got a pair of RSdC124 in a dual chamber sealed box of pretty much exactly recommended size. They drop lower than most other subs I had used (Xmax 10", dual XS 12", dual RSd 12") while maintaing good accuracy and tightness. The RSd had great output but wasn't as accurate and punchy as the RSdC. The Xmax was all punch and lacking bottom end. The XS where smooth but lacked authority.
I would recommended the RSdC, easily a better overall driver than any of the others I mentioned. Perhaps in more specific applications the others would be better suited but I feel the RSdC clearly beats them all as an overall great subwoofer.
I would recommended the RSdC, easily a better overall driver than any of the others I mentioned. Perhaps in more specific applications the others would be better suited but I feel the RSdC clearly beats them all as an overall great subwoofer.
SOLD: '91 PG 4Runner
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NewOldStock
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undoubtedly that is true, enclosure was the first thing I worried about/considered... which is why/how I know the size/volume/etc...audiophyle_247 wrote:Enclosure is responsible for 80% of the bass, yet so many people are quick to focus on the sub & consider the box more an afterthought.
Pick a quality sub, and design the enclosure to get the sound you want.
The RSDc is a more than capable sub, and can be quite impressive.
I would recommend a single RSDc 10" or 12" & put it in a quality ported enclosure. The choice between either the 10" or 12" should be determined by the enclosure you can fit, because a 10" in the right box can sound better than the 12" in the wrong box. A low tuned ported box will not only increase the output but will extend the low end bass too. The bass is not just louder, but it will play the lows like you are running a larger sub.
People think subs in the trunk are quieter because it has to travel through the rear seats & such, but the fact is the rear seat is only 1 of the 6 walls making up the trunk, and just happens to be one of the thickest. The problem is you are loosing bass through all of the thinner walls to the outside, not that the trunk sealing off the bass from the cabin. Sound deadener is what you need to use to reinforce those 5 other sheet metal thin walls, no matter what sub system you decide upon. Doing so will aid in keeping the bass in the trunk, where traveling into the cab is the only place it can go.
But thats just my $0.02.
So... Once the power, amp-ohm load and enclosure are determined the next step is speaker selection - which is where I am now.
If the trunk were bigger and/or I didnt need to use nearly all of it I would go with a much larger ported enclosure or even a multi-sub IB install - but those are constraints that I have to work around.
.8 should be enough for most 10's and 1.2 should be enough for most 12's - sealed. If I knew how much internal area a 3" port 28" long would take up, I could potentially figure out how much volume is left in the enclosure (before the sub) - but I have zero idea on how to figure out that calculation. if I can get roughly .7cubes with a 3" port 28" long, then I can use the Dayton 10 ported, tuned to 31hz. but something tells me that port is going to take more than .1 cubes.
The good news is that the trunk will have ample amounts of sound deadening applied - both mat and roll-on - so that should help considerably.
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NewOldStock
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140 should be plenty ... I would think.Bfowler wrote:Not sure how much volume you are after...but when I ran my rsdc12 of a x600.1 in a 1.2 sealed box AND in a trunk of a bmw (which I'd pretty damn sealed) I was still hitting close to 140db on music
I need to get out and listen to some actual systems, not just the "I added a pair of 12's to my factory stereo and now I have a "system" systems"
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audiophyle_247
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For a round port, surface area of a circle = pi (3.14) x R^2 (radius squared)
So assuming a 3" port with 1/8" PVC, you get a radius of 1 5/8".
So port area is 3.14 x 1.625^2 = 8.29sqin
8.29sqin x 28" long = 232cu in or .13cuft
Its really not that hard, slot vent boxes require quite a bit more calculation though.
I use an 8" sub in my car as a demo to show people what a quality box can accomplish, and why my boxes cost what they do.
Running 150w rms (600w rms sub) and I hit 136db in a del Sol, which has 2 metal walls between the cab & trunk(rear window rolls down into the sealed cavity). The box is .45 cuft & tuned to 28hz. Bass is clear & precise, hits lower than many 12's do, and provides more bass than my front stage can even try to keep up with. (MTX thunder Axe 6.5's)
Nobody believes its an 8 until they actually see it.
What vehicle are you putting this setup in? I can help ya design a box, just need the dimensions you want the box to be.
So assuming a 3" port with 1/8" PVC, you get a radius of 1 5/8".
So port area is 3.14 x 1.625^2 = 8.29sqin
8.29sqin x 28" long = 232cu in or .13cuft
Its really not that hard, slot vent boxes require quite a bit more calculation though.
I use an 8" sub in my car as a demo to show people what a quality box can accomplish, and why my boxes cost what they do.
Running 150w rms (600w rms sub) and I hit 136db in a del Sol, which has 2 metal walls between the cab & trunk(rear window rolls down into the sealed cavity). The box is .45 cuft & tuned to 28hz. Bass is clear & precise, hits lower than many 12's do, and provides more bass than my front stage can even try to keep up with. (MTX thunder Axe 6.5's)
Nobody believes its an 8 until they actually see it.
What vehicle are you putting this setup in? I can help ya design a box, just need the dimensions you want the box to be.